This, also as for a proposed budget there isn't one and it would be stupid of me to even try to put forward a price. However it helps having an ok paying job and living with the parents I DID have a look at other turbo combinations however they kind of went over the whole "basic build" idea i had. Though of everything from TD05-16G Turbos TD06-20G's with custom manifolds - wayy to expensive Precision 4828 Turbos - GT2860-5/HKS 2530/GT28RS equivalent GT2871 core in stock housings In the end i thought the 2871R's are proven to make the power and should do so easily with E85.
As I said I'm not expecting you to pull rob260 power . But 400-420rwkw range definitely If you don't break 400 (even if only by 1kw) ill be very very shocked!!
no you are not being a nancy, and yes you are correct the engine will hold a lot more boost and be a lot more reliable at said boost. That said - the only internal component that exceeds physical dimensions/characteristics in the original list is stronger valve springs. aftermarket pistons of stock size may be tougher but will still perform at 14psi like stock - good condition pistons. If he chooses to run (picking number from nowhere here) 18 psi the heavy duty piston and rods should definately last longer than the stock but as long as they dont explode and tolerances are the same would they put out more hp??? As I said I do not want any form of pee pee contest here, I am just interested what an engine built to essentially stock dimensions ie not oversized pistons - stroked or custom cams but with superior quality gear can do. and just as a side note I have followed a lot of build threads and power estimate threads since I joined up, just like I intend to follow this one, so yes I feel like I have a basic idea of what mods will do what for an engine, I just like to add as much info to my personal knowledge base as I can. If this builod can make the intended range of power all good. I have no personal experience with these turbos or E85 so the more I read hopefully the more I can hope to learn.
I'll go have a gander at some build threads a bit later. On a side note, I've seen what E85 can do. If you have pumps nearby and don't intend to take the Z anywhere where there won't be E85, and you ca spend the extra cash for fuel lines and whatever else is necessary to prevent the lollywater from corroding it, E85 is a good choice. It could turn your 400 into 450.
Mildly ported stock exh manifolds will do the job especially if you are leaving heads stock, some mild cams are a "should do" but you might be able to push it there on stock cams. We actually found with a customers car that the bigger exh manifolds didn't show any measurable gains in the real world over stock ported manifolds. I would recommend a Link Z32 300ZX plug in and play G4 ECU, I'm completely and utterly biased but you will love it and it'll help so long as it's tuned properly. We picked up about 30Kws on my car just upgrading to the G4 & using some of the advantages it has over a tuned stock ECU. In the wifes completely stock 97TT there was 10Kws to be had while still leaving the tune very safe, no boost increase and stock exh with cats. So easy to tune once you have it installed and plenty of motorsport functions you will love
Was with the 28RS running e85 ? Otherwise he may need some head work if he wants to hit 400 without e85 on RS
Look at shifter's motor Regrinds 555 injectors GT28RS 400 plus on pump fuel. Granted it would have been tuned on a knife edge but E85 would give an easy boost over pump fuel.
1.lacking good breathing mods..(not moving the air) 2.UAS readings are a little lower now (no air temp sense pre throttle body anymore) You only have to look at your AT,IT Temps on your graph compared to shifters . .
Did shifter have breathing mods ? (Intake pipes etc) I did find a few extra kw to nudge me to 500rwhp at a shop in town by ditching my 20" rear wheels for stockies (dyno wheels) the place had on a nice cold morning. Sure at 24psi it'll hit over 400 But on original post on 2871 will easily hit 400rwkw
Dont build the car to make a certain dyno number, build it to run a certain ET. The two are vastly different
Rob where could you put the air temp sensor if not in front of the throttle body? Surely that would give the most accurate feedback for tuning?
Intake air sensor If you want to compare apples to apples eg mine and yours ,air intake should be at ambient like mine. Per throttle body gives you the a correction factor depending on temp. The higher the temp the higher the correction. Not saying one is right or wrong but there are variables to consider . Make sense?
No it doesn't make sense at all. The air temp sensor for the dynos weather station should only ever be placed somewhere that will give an accurate measurement of the ambient air temperature in the dyno room as close as practicable to the air intake. There is no way in hell anyone should ever be placing the air temp sensor for the dyno in the inlet tract for the engine post turbos and intercoolers The Inlet Air Temp sensor for the cars ECU should be located either just before the throttle(s) or in the inlet manifold but NOT the sensor for the dyno.
I dont what you are reading .. but I'm saying it should be at ambient pre throttle body is a fudged figure
