Engine Build for 400rwkw

Discussion in 'Technical' started by SRB-2NV, Feb 8, 2013.

  1. SRB-2NV

    SRB-2NV #TEAMROB

    I'm planning to get my spare motor built over the next few months and was looking for something i could have missed in my list.

    Currently my list is:

    2.5" UAS Catback
    3" Expansion Dump Pipes
    Highflow Cats
    Japtek SMIC's
    Garrett GT2871R Turbos .64A/R
    AMS Manifolds
    Wiseco Forged Pistons
    Eagle Forged ConRods
    Cryo Treated Crank, Girdle & Block
    ARP L19 Head & Main Studs
    ACL Race Bearings
    Ross Balancer
    Cylinder heads Serviced (valve stem seals etc) but will be left un ported
    Uprated Valvesprings
    Stock Manual cams
    Ross Harmonic Balancer
    Bosch 1000cc Injectors
    Top Feed Fuel Rail
    Walbro 400LPH E85 Pump
    NIStune
    Dual Intake - SAFC for second AFM

    Car will be tuned on E85 and the end aim is ~400rwkw. Basically it will be a built bottom end, standard heads apart from valvesprings on E85 and with GT2871R's. Anything else i could have missed?
     
  2. stumagoo

    stumagoo Active Member

    As I read this - internally everything in the engine will be aftermarket parts of stock dimension/specs, except the valve springs, the rest is in boltons. I am really looking forward to seeing how this works out. It will be a good guide I feel to bolton power capability and with the internal mods should be reliable for you.
     
  3. srb2no

    srb2no WEEEEEEEE


    Nos.... Don't forget nos.
     
  4. ProckyZ89

    ProckyZ89 Senior Member

    So you have 3" down pipes with 3" reducing to 2.5" test pipes ?

    And if you don't hit 400rwkw with 2871 than you did something wrong.

    Any particular reason you are keeping manual cams, valves and stock heads ?

    Bottom end reads ok though, what size pistons

    Oh also if you want to save a little money there is a option apart from the fuel rails

    Twin feed will do the job plenty well for you with a aftermarket regulator.
    Also 1000cc may be overkill? 750cc should do fine unless you have a price deal on the 1000's


    Also if you are running NISTUNE selin would be a great option, it means one less controller you have to worry about . But safc will work as well .

    Otherwise good list so far!
     
  5. SRB-2NV

    SRB-2NV #TEAMROB

    Stock cylinder head to reduce overall cost, i know it won't be cheap in the first place though. If i come into some more money down the road pulling the engine to put a set of worked heads on isn't a problem however stock will do for now. 1000cc injectors because i know of several other cars that have maxed them around 450-475rwkw on E85, so at 400kw they should still be fine. Car will be used at the drags mostly as was my plan for it originally so we shall see how it goes. Small steps first. Another reason for the stock cylinder head is response, after driving Rob260's beast with .86a/r 2871's i didn't mind the lag, i've driven cars with more lag and less power so with a set of stock cams and smaller turbine housings it should spool up well enough.
     
  6. Boost Junkie

    Boost Junkie Member

    since you want to mostly drag it you could possibly look into getting bigger cams. you will have a built bottom end and better valve springs already so you could raise the rev limit a good amount to squeeze more power out of it.
    also nos, powerglide and dump pipes exiting behind the front wheels :br:
     
  7. frysie

    frysie FRYTECH

    if your in it for drags. go auto cams.
     
  8. BLACK BEAST

    BLACK BEAST SLICKTOP TT R-SPEC

    I'll disagree with you there ..its his .86 and 272 cams giving him the lag .
    And he is running the biggest 2871 (53mm)
    You'll probably be using the 51mm with .64



    If you get a chance to go in mine you'll be surprised at the snap response which you will never get with stock heads and cams.
     
  9. stumagoo

    stumagoo Active Member

    Can I ask why??? not trying to start an argument but I have been interested in actual experiences of the 2 types. I have had 2 engines - one with manual cams one with auto, both running the same ancilleries/injectors etc, the manual cams definately seemed to have more go, unfortunately never dyno'ed them so no definative proof other than manual cams will snap to boost at 100kmph (full throttle and auto box) and then step sideways auto cams wont. same tyres same car different cams and the auto cams are in a much better condition engine.
     
  10. lovmyzed

    lovmyzed Member

    spending all that money and not doing at least cams is not getting the best out of your set-up. A set of good cams will give you an increase across the whole band. more air in and out == more power.... obviously head work will just add some more on top.
     
  11. Big_al_TT92ZX

    Big_al_TT92ZX Tempted to own another Z

    Hey mate, nice list.
    Can I ask why the 2871's over the 3071s? The 0.64 3071's show more linear response, at least on 2L motors than the 2871's. Is it a fit issue, regarding chassis rails?
    How about the GTX28RS's? You should be the forum guinea pig. ;)
     
  12. ProckyZ89

    ProckyZ89 Senior Member

    I haven't been in robs or yours beast but even mine feels snappy compared to a zed or two I've been in with similar power without head work.

    JWT400+ or a similar size would be good for wht your after and engine work
     
  13. ProckyZ89

    ProckyZ89 Senior Member

    Sorry mate forum gineapig has already been done I've got GTX2863R on my rebuild,
     
  14. SRB-2NV

    SRB-2NV #TEAMROB

    Yes but your engine is a masterpiece so i would expect that, this engine will be a "slapper" so to speak :p
     
  15. Madcow

    Madcow Active Member

    I understand you want a dyno queen, over driveability?


    Then why you worried about lag? As long as the turbos are spooled up before redline you will make the 400kw.
     
  16. SRB-2NV

    SRB-2NV #TEAMROB

    Drag car more than a dyno queen, i'm not worried about lag. Driven Robs car with bigger turbos and big cams and i didn't mind that amount of lag, mine will have somewhat less.
     
  17. xHoRoKx

    xHoRoKx Member

    monitoring this thread.

    I'm interested in what it takes to get a Z to that kind of power. also cash wise, how much do you think you'll have to spend to pull that kind of rwkw?

    i know that Z's keep up with cars that they really shouldn't ie VEHSV R8's. So 400rwkw on a Z... I can only imagine that this is an undrivable monster you're trying to summon lol
     
  18. stumagoo

    stumagoo Active Member

    not only that what he has done is not too far off a stock engine specs (if in good condition) it makes me wonder how much one can push a stock spec TT to with the correct mods. on saying that I am not wanting to start a who's got what power war, I am just interested in where this build goes. as it is outlayed above.
     
  19. ProckyZ89

    ProckyZ89 Senior Member

    Not being a nancy ..

    But how do you Pick this being close to a stock engine? Bottom line it's not stock and will handle more boost and force than a stock engine could. Let alone the 2871R turbos.
    And if he goes with a R4 or R5 profile cam that will help too. By all means watch the thread but if you search and dog through the build threads you will find lots of good information that gives indications what this engine should do when complete.

    There is a thread on a reconditioned stock long block with 28R turbos somewhere on the net that gives a great idea what a stock engine does
     
  20. ProckyZ89

    ProckyZ89 Senior Member

    Have a squiz through build sections mate or search for high powered builds.
    Will answer all your questions

    Basic formula to get a high powered zed is a well built and prepped block, usually some head work and a good choice of turbos.
     

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