Couple of stereo questions. This is new stuff to me so go easy if they're dumb questions! Please.... This is the kit I bought" Full 'Eclipse' speaker system, brand new (still in box) 6" splits with crossovers for front doors with used pair of 4x6 speakers for rears, 4 channel amp, 12" sub & sealed enclosure (with tie down straps), power cable with fuse link to attach amp to battery & various quality speaker wires" (from this thread http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319293). 1. The amp has three power feeds. I have "battery" connected to the battery, "ground" earthed to the body, what do I do with "remote"? Can anyone confirm that this is for an accessory power fees? And if yes can I take this from the stereo harness? 2. So question is I have two RCA outs on my head unit. One says "front" the other says "Rear S/W". The amp has RCA inputs for "front" and "rear" and speaker outputs for "front" and "rear". So question is assuming I connect front RCA out (from head unit) to front RCA in, and rear RCA out to rear RCA in, and front speaker out to my crossovers and rear speaker out to the rear speakers.... that leaves me with nothing to run the sub does it? Or am I doing it wrong? Thanks in advance... Already got the speakers installed incl splits up the front, and have run new wires through the body -hard part is connecting it up! Edit pic included for reference
Remote wire comes from the head unit to switch the amp on. You will need another amp if you want all speakers amplified, and a head unit with 5 rca outputs front, rear and subwoofer. For what you have there I wouldn't worry about the back speakers for now and run the front headunit rca's to front rca's on amp and the s/w rca's to amp rear channels and run the rear channels bridged with high pass crossover for the sub. If you really want the back speakers going you could run them off the headunit directly just need to set the levels well so they don't distort.
To make any of the effort you're going to be putting in to install this system worth it, go grab a mono amp to power your sub and a new head unit with 3 RCA outs. Your current setup could be connected a few ways. :Just amplify your front speakers and the sub (not a bad option if you want to save cash) :Just amplify the front and rears (don't connect the sub) :Amplify everything, bridging front and rear off the same connection. (removing any option for fade F/R. Will be terrible. The "remote" connection from the amp goes to your head unit "remote/accessory" wire. All it does it tell the amp to power up after the head unit has turned on.
Thanks for the replies guys. I might just run front and rear speakers off the amp to get it going did now -see how it sounds. I can always change head unit out and add the sub down the track. Does that sound ok?
Yeah was considering that... Any reason NOT to run front and sub off the amp and run the rear speakers off the head unit?
maybe or run front and rear on one channel and sub on the other, the only thing ull lose is front to rear fade...
The head shoud be 50w per channel, so it wont be a problem to run the rear 6's from the head. You should have bitten down hard a got a pdx dig.
Check whether the head unit gives more of it's internal amp if you just connect speakers to the front connectors only. I would have assumed that head unit front connections go to smaller front speakers. RCA through external amp goes to larger rear speakers and subwoofer (assuming sub is passive) If sub is active? Why not connect active sub to head unit rear connectors (for minimum pre amp) maybe use low pass filter too. Let the Sub's own amp boost the signal and also use the bass boost options on the head unit. Connect the front and rear speakers to the external amp. You still have fader control and manually adjust the sub using its own amp adjustment or switch off the bass boost from the head unit if anything sounds distorted. OR.... If the head unit is designed to distribute more power with only front speakers then this. Plug everything rear to front and front to rear, the only diff would be that the fader works in reverse.
What do I need to know about impedance if I'm considering doing it this way! ? As in wire my front and rear speakers together from the "front" out on the amp...
You need to find out what your amp is capable of running usually 4 ohms non bridged and 2 ohms bridged, but depends on amp. For speakers wired parallel 1/r+1/r... =1/r. If you have two four ohm speakers in parallel you will have a total of two ohms/channel. For series wiring just add the resistance.
Nope no reason, you're on the right track, fade the rear speakers out when your system is up and running as they are mostly irrelevant. They are there for nothing more than ambience. Amplifying rear speakers is a waste of time, money should be spent on front speakers, deadening in the front door frames then amplification.
Whoops, I re-read your opening post. Your rear speakers are lower quality than fronts, so you only intended the rear speakers to be fill ins anyway. So just do what you are doing in above quote.
Thanks for the clarification guys. Have soldered the new wiring for the rears into the stereo harness and will be using the amp to power front and sub. It's slow going doing this around jobs (I work on call at the moment) but its coming along... Hardest part is hiding all the wiring! Will be worth it when it's done...
Another tip is to run the power cable down one side and the rca's down the other or you will likely have some noise through the amplified speakers caused by induction from the alternator on the power cable. Sounds like your getting there, will be worth the effort.
rob . run the fronts of the amp channel A ( switch amp to high pass or normal ) run channel B for you sub ( so you can have control over it , ) on you head unit body you should see a switch somewhere on the body of your head unit. for sub output, or it may be in the menu/setup section run the back speaker of you head unit, ( rear from head unit ) this will give you the best sound , when conecting the sub use channel left and right ( bridge mode look at your amp channel B it will say bridge on it ) of channel B this will bring your amp down to 2 ohm stable ( this is want you want ) switch channel B to lowpass ( you will see it on your amp channel B ) this set up is called front stage rear fill .. if you find your fronts cant take the power after you have tune the hole system, take the front driver speaker out and change the leads over so you are going from + to + and - to -, TO + to - and - to + . this is called reverse polarity it will get rid of the bass thats coming out of the front stage , old school trik you can do the same with the back if you wish ( dont have to )
