Have you run the auto diagnosis? See http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?p=845769#post845769 Also what kind of issues are you experiencing?
Wow, that's awesome and likely the cause of tranny failure. :zlove: You'll need to spend ~ $1500 on a rebuild, maybe more, using extra HD clutch packs + modified valve body and oil cooler.
At the very least you could be up for $800, to fix the servo's alone... May as well spend the $2k and overhaul the thing with tougher clutch packs etc. etc as K-Zed has said. Go the full hog, you'll burn another one out in no time, power will annihilate the crap out of a standard 4sp Auto in a Z, they're just a gearbox lifted out of a Patrol at the end of the day and don't hold the same rep as the manual they put into these cars.
so your the expert on jatco's then? and these gearboxes burnt out real quick.....rebuilt http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRuTKw9YAco http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pd5ksOOooBY oh and the final jatco's in AWD drag skylines http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sq48VWJF6ck http://s584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/exXU1/?action=view¤t=Copyof100_5925.mp4 terrible box
My gearbox was stuffed a few years ago now. I posted a whole bunch of info and pictures of the overhaul. Basically would engage on start, travel 200m then you could hear an air blowing sound from under the car "pffft" and it was in Drive but acted like it was in Neutral. After a while it just wouldn't engage at all, totally gone. Long story short, it was the belt (I don't even know what it's called) but it was the belt that goes around the gearbox and sqeeuzes the box to produce the pressure to shift the fluid around. 99% of people should know what that is if you tell them that =), and you can buy oversized ones. My car's got 245rwkw on a tune up run (what's that around 330hp) and I've had no problems since we did the overhaul. Now for details for anyone who wants them: I spent a solid 2 weeks just calling every auto box named company in the book. There are quite a number of people out there who race and play with autobox's and do them up specially, so you can buy special race built ones. They are 5 to 6k and second hand boxes were around 4k, so if you're really going after hp or track days etc, might as well go the whole hog. From my research, and it obviously depends how far you want to go with it. The gearbox is the same as the Patrol 4wd box, just few gasket or rubber rings in difference. An overhaul kit with all the parts (and some spares) was $800. I may still have the exact part number for the kit written down somewhere. When we pulled apart the box (there's basically 3 parts. remember this is coming from a non expert - the Torque converter, the valve body and the box itself with all the teeth and rings etc) The box was like new inside, not a single tooth was broken or any visible wear. The only thing was the belt I mentioned at the start, it was burnt and damaged. Everything else was like it had done it's first 10,000 km. Since we'd already had it all pulled apart, we put in all the new pieces, took around 2 full weekends, and can be fiddly getting all the teeth to line up, but if you half know what you're doing, it's not brain surgery. PS We took a lot of photos before pulling anything apart, and they did come in very handy when putting things back. While we had it all open, I sent in the torque converter in for an overhaul. Costs $250 and they bust it open, overhaul the inside and re-weld it all up again. Only thing we couldn't do ourselves. As for valve body, we are talking about something that's built in the mm, the whole body is big, but all the gaps and small parts inside, we are talking mm or less dimensions . If you've never opened one up (hopefully my photos are still on here somewhere or I'll post from home) it looks like a giant metal maze of grooves and holes, a labyrinth or diff pathways for fluid to get run into or squeezed into with christmas tree style (triangle wedge shaped parts) valves, whatever. So as the pressure increases etc things inside slide open on a grading level. I spoke to a lot of people over this, and it was a fair point that Nissan engineers would have spent a crap load of time working out the best setup that balances speedy gear changes with strength enough to stand up to everyday driving. A few of the racers who play with autoboxes for drags or whatever, can port the valve body and I was quote around $2,000 from everyone I called. BUT after speaking to everyone I know, unless you need that super performance and are willing to risk getting a nano second quicker gear change for a loss in strength in the part/piece of metal due to it been thinned out in order to port it, or groove it out more, whatever, then go for it. I wanted a car that could put up with everyday driving and last thing I wanted was for it to break down again and for us to have to pull it all apart again, so I opt'd to skip the valve body porting. Which did take me a while to come to that conclussion, but as said, been very happy with mine ever since, and I didn't think necessary with the way I wanted my car setup for my use. Hope that's helped at least a little. Adrian
Dude, do a manual conversion. I did and it made my TT a completely different car for the better, much more sporty feel, better acceleration, fuel economy & they will take a hell of a thrashing. Will never forget that first drive after the conversion was done, huge grin from ear to ear Best move I ever made. kit for sale here: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318797
