I've recently replaced the drivers side amplifier and door switch and neither windows still don't go down or up. Sometimes the passenger window will randomly work but I have yet to see the drivers work. The wiring looks fine, previous owner has done some soldering but it all looks in tact and connecting. By banging the window rollup interface it's made the passenger window work again (?) Should I be looking into replacing the window rollup interface? Any advice or assumptions on what to replace next or what to look at would be really appreciated, thanks guys.
Done the basics - fuse. Is the power window amp in good working order? Checked power at the motor connector? If power available at this point its Motor replacment time. Faulty drive motors are a common thing. Dry and tight guides put extra pressure on the motor and therefor can damage the power window amplifier or damage the drive motor.
The power window amp is in good order, We've checked the power at the motor connector, The motor's working fine, At the moment my only guess is to replace the window rollup interface, opinions?
same same but different I have a similar dodgy window fault going on. my drivers window doesnt work by itself but it does work if i use both at the same time the passengers works fine though. Interested to see if the problems are both from the same cause as yours???
That's weird! Well if i don't get any responses tonight i'm going to buy another window rollup interface, i'll keep posted if it fixes it or not.
Okay, I have replaced the window rollup interface and still no difference, I took a look at the wiring and fixed it up, allowing the passenger window to fully function. The drivers side had me stumped considering everything was looking good, so I decided to buy ANOTHER window amplifier and it turns out the one I bought from another aus300zx member, didn't even work. This fixing my drivers side window and allowing me to finally get a road worthy!
If you pull the amp apart you will probably find 1 or two burnt tracks. There can be fixed by soldering a "jumper" wire over the brunt tracks. Thanks for posting the solution to your problem. Welcome to zed repair by trial and replace.
