Oh yeah its a very easy mistake. I think its in the " traps for young players" thread. we need to bump that back up
Also, Did you supply the engine? If you did he might use that as a scape goat once he realises how much he will be out of pocket. Hope the reco T25s are ok too, if there was no oil in the bearings may be shagged.
I think the lot will be FUBAR going by Watto's colorful description . Sad to hear mate, glad to hear the mechanic has come to the party SO FAR. hope it all ends well. Rebuilt engine/turbos I just cant believe they would have let it out the door if there was a serious issue about the how much oil was in the engine.
Yeah I've got my fingers crossed that it all gets fixed & Theres no major damage, as I mentioned I only drove it for about 5 minutes & didn't even get over 50kph. I turned it off as soon as I seen the temp gauge, also the oil pressure was on 0. I jacked the car up & had a look at the sump, it's got massive scratches on it & looks like it's got a huge dent in it. I'm guessing he may have sat the motor on the ground & damaged it. The only parts I supplied were the turbos, gearbox & engine mounts. The rest was supplied by him & I have an invoice for it. Also on the work sheet it stated he had spent 2 hours removing & refitting the sump due to a leaking gasket.. So if it is te sump then I can prove he did it. Also there was never a problem with the car before I took it there, the whole reason I got it fixed was to replace the turbos & fit a new gearbox. He decided all the extra stuff needed to replaced.
it shouldnt matter who supplied what or the work that was done, if the car left with no oil in it then the buck stops there.
why would it take two hours to change the seal on a sump with the engine out?? of topic i know but am i missing something?
there is no sump gasket as such anyway, i dont know why it would take 2 hours, unless the sump is pysically damaged, ive seen that before
dent The dent in the sump could have also caused oil starvation. If the dent is right under the oil pickup, then it may have blocked the oil pickup or severely limited how much oil could flow. The oil pick up point sits very close to the bottom of the sump.
free standing a vg engine on its sump isn't possible, they fall over. But if some clown managed to do it gently, it still wouldn't damage the sump enough to stop oil flow, dropping it would, or some cross country work. Sorry to say, but from your description of events, the engine is shot to bits. really high temps and no oil, and you drove like that ( you didn't know of course) no matter how far or how slowly, makes no difference, gone, and expensive top fix.
yeah drivnig with no oil and no coolant, id be saying a REBUILD is the bare minimum id accept from the mechanic... cos that engine will be rooted and no matter how much he thinks it might be useable, its not worth saying yes after how much money was spent on getting it mint
no oil + no coolant heads more then likely warped and/or cracked, possible block warped also, I'd be pushing him to replace the engine! If he dosnt agree, and get on it strait away. take it to fair trading, I let a mechanic get away with sub par service after spending over 5k on fully rebuilding a g13b engine, after 1000km head cracked and leaking coolant, which was a new supplied head by the mechanic, ported with reground cam's, bigger valves, springs etc. (supposidly he tested it for cracks etc). Because i liked him, and because I had my zed to drive around in, I didnt push too hard for him to hurry to get it fixed, 3 years later its sitting in my back yard pulled apart waiting till I can afford to buy a few things to rebuild it myself(I'm now jobless, and can't find work after hurting my back 2 and a half years ago! so finding it hard to get funds). So yeah, make sure you cover your bases, would hate to see you piss money down the toilet like I did, I used to always expect people to be much nicer then they really are.
In these situations the ideal outcome, especially from an insurance point of view is to return the car to the condition it was before the incident.Not better off and not worse off. In this case id say a good second hand motor with similar kms would be the right outcome, a rebuild is out of the question, the cost for one and as i said it puts the owner in a better position than he was so it wont happen.
the condition he PAID for it to be is what it should be returned to, or return it to original condition and refund the cash paid for the work...
I'm hoping that he will replace the motor, the only thing is I don't know if I can trust them again.. Maybe a full refund would be a better option but that would mean I'd be worse off than when I started, sure I'd have my cash back but then I'd have to spend even more on a rebuild. I'm going to get them to do a compression test before they even attempt to fix it, if it comes back with poor compression or even the slightest hint of damage then I will be telling the to replace the engine with a fully reconditioned one.
Anyone care to link me to where I could buy a reconditioned engine ? Don't car if it's forged or worked.. Just thinking, if I can show them that a new motor would be cheaper than rebuilding plus labour they might just go for it.
that wont work, find a good second hand one with good compressions and have them do a plenum pull and 100k service etc while its all out.
yeah i agree, a 2nd hand motor should be provided and then they should do the work to that new motor that he has been invoiced for already. thats if you could trust them to do the sump etc again [TIS][TIS][TIS]
