Just took lil miss kristies car for a spin around the block (yes she still unregistered) and noticed that the hicas light is continuously on..... the rear outta hicas balljoints were replaced and everything was reassembled correctly, however i have been informed by the last owner that the hicas was "disabled somehow" by the owner prior to him, the lines are connected to the rear hicas system and it does NOT have a lock out bar, however i was told that the system is "disabled somehow". That was not my main concern, as i approached the first corner and applied the brake i have the "Anti-Lock" light come on and stay on untill i got her back in the driveway, and turned the car off and restarted her. I know her ride has minor wiring issues, Fog lamps wired to both front fogs/parkers and the entire drivers side indicators. and i fixed the rear bar side red parkers lastnight.(that was a learning curve). I am curious as to if the fuse lables "Skid Cont" would have anything to do with the "Anti-Lock" light being illuminated on the dash. the ABS system has been checked and is in working order, that is why i am at a loss as to what the issue could be.
Possible reason for HICAS light is: Steering Wheel is it : stock or after market ? if after market is the boss kit a HICAS one not a standard?
My Blue Zed has had the Hicas Light coming on for nearly 10 years. It comes on after 5 minutes driving over about 80kmh, and stays on until you turn the motor off. I have tried and tried to trace the fault. Recently found a fix. You go behind the cluster and pull the Hicas bulb out. Haven't seen the problem since.
The steering wheel is aftermarket and as far as i can see there are no wires leading to or from the boss kit that shouldnt be there. I was thinking that since we had both rear hubs off the car and both rear drive axles out maybe there is a wire or something that we have neglected to reconnect when putting the rear end back together. the "Anti-Lock" light has only been coming on since the car had the rear axles and hubs removed for repairs/replacement parts to be fitted (rear outta hicas balljoints and all 4 CV boots) i have to say, i feel so unintellectual at this moment as the car is a dream of kristie's and i am at a loss for knowing how to fix the issue. *just a note, some people (random non mechanicly minded) have said that it could be that we have a dead ABS computer. I find this suggestion laughable, whilst not completely dismissed. I thought the cars computer was responsible for the ABS attributes-??? maybe not... I have looked over the car for the past 72 hours and am finding myself almost screaming for some help or info that may assist us in the raising of a neglected 89 fairlady tt
Well if someone around there has conZult you can run a scan on the hicas. The most common cause of the HICAS light coming on is low fluid in the power steering reservoir. This needs to be filled with Automatic transmission fluid almost right to the very top. This is sometimes easy to diagnose, as the light will be on when the car is cold, but as the fluid warms and expands, the light turns off. Another common cause for the HICAS light is with an aftermarket steering wheel. If the boss kit is a non HICAS boss kit (needs a hole in it for the HICAS steering sensor) or the boss kit is for a different brand wheel, the light can come on. The different wheel/boss kit brand issue is that some boss kits will be designed with their brand of wheel in mind, with secondary screw holes for other brands which may use different sized screws). Although the boss kit might be lined up with the HICAS sensor, the mismatched steering wheel will be offset, and so the boss is moved one spline over to straighten the wheel. The problem now is that the HICAS sensor's default (straight) position is offset. After around 15 to 20 minutes of driving the car realises you can't be turning slightly to the left or right all the time as the sensor indicates, and triggers an error. To test if this is the problem, remove the boss kit, and with the wheel attached, see if the HICAS sensor component of the boss (just a square hole) is inline with the bottom of the wheel. Note: DO NOT try and adjust or fiddle with the steering angle sensor itself, and do not remove it. It is a long, wound spring that is very difficult to put back in properly. Manual HICAS TEST. (Conzult is better) Turbos come standard with High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension, a fancy way to say 4 wheel steering. There's a visual diagnostic mode to check for problems in the HICAS functions. The 90-93 TTs have hydrolic HICAS running off the power steering pump, where '94+ utilizes electric actuators to handle the rear steering chores. Their codes are a little different, but the procedure is the same. It might required a few tries to make it work. Be persistant! Procedure: 1. Ignition switch 'off' manual tranny in neutral or A/T in 'P' 2. Start the engine 3. Within 10 seconds after turning the key to 'ON', start the engine, turn steering wheel from left to right 20 degrees from neutral 5 times or more times & pump the brakes 5 times. Then press the brake pedal again to enter the test mode. 4. Turning the steering wheel left or right past 20 degrees from neutral will cause the rear wheels to turn slightly (~1 degree) (1.). 5. Drive the car forward 15 feet under 9mph to enter the full diagnostic mode. 6. The HICAS dash light will flash a code indicating any problems. Long flash is first digit, short flash is 2nd digit. 7. Diagnostic mode is exited when: ignition is turned off, vehicle speed exceeds 9mph, or diagnostic has operated for 5 minutes. HICAS light codes for '90-'93: 1. HICAS solenoid R.H. 2. HICAS solenoid L.H. 3. Cut-off valve 4. Power Steering solenoid 5. Vehicle Speed sensor 6. Steering angle sensor 7. Steering Neutral positon sensor 8. A/T: Parking Brake Sensor M/T: Clutch sensor 9. A/T: Inhibitor sensor M/T: Neutral sensor HICAS light codes for '94-'99: 11. HICAS control unit 12. HICAS motor power supply not present 13. HICAS motor output not present 21. Vehicle speed signal not present 22. Steering angle sensor angle signal not present 23. Steering angle sensor neutral not present 24. Rear main sensor input not present 25. Rear sub sensor input not present 31. Parking brake sensor input not present 32. Inhibitor switch (A/T) or nuetral switch (M/T) input not present 33. Engine speed signal not present
hey guys, ty for all the help and advise. i have found that the past owner replaced the diff with a stock lsd, (someone welded the previous one) but he failed to take the hicas sensors when he did the change, so any info on where we can get another set that wont distry the bank acc....
I have the same problem. 'Anti Lock' light has been on recently. Goes away sometimes but always comes back. Im yet to locate the problem area. You live near me 'kristies 300 mechanic'. Perhaps we can scream profanity and abuse at our cars together
