Hey guys quick confirmation RE egr removal. TTZ extractors going on so we need to remove/ bypass EGR it has been blocked at the manifold as TTZ extractors don't have bung and blocking plates are going on the plennum. Is this all there is to it... and then just cap off any uneccessary vacum lines.??? Thanks
Yes. When next pulling the plenum, you can remove the EGR into plenum pipes and blank off at the plenum.
yeah, thats all there is to it. Blocked at the manifold- in your case no bung for with replacement manifolds, and blocking plates in the underside of the plenum. Vacuum lines and solenoid can be removed. EGR can be removed with plenum off, but has to be cut in sections to get the pipework out. The 2x8mm bolts holding it in have to be loosened equally.
Yep the plennum is off and the stock extractors are off, just putting the new ones on, can we just leave the old egr pipes in place? Mikey & Zedboy
Would not having the blanking plates put on the underside of the plenum pose a potential vacuum leak problem? Realise that a properly functioning EGR is supposed to revert to closed with no vacuum, and control opened via a vacuum controlling solenoid, but a faulty/old EGR can be partially stuck open? Even with the EGR pipes unbolted from plenum and pulled down, there is clearance to refit the upper plenum with blanking plates installed.
Mate just rip the 2 arms off and put the blanking plates on. Then cap the vac nipple and you're done. They're really brittle and they'll snap off easy after a few tries. You can do it the hard way like we did and remove the egr unit itself as well, but be prepared to swear alot and undo bolts 1/32 at a time lol
Hey Greg so it is a bitch to completely remove EGR? Think we might hit with the angle grinder in the morning. Also which way did you do the water hose by-pass, we have seen two different ways on the net....any pics of yours???
Yeah even with the wiring loom out of the way there wasn't much space to work the EGR unit out. Since the firewall curves over above the back of the engine success may depend on how worn your engine mounts are lol. And about the water bypass it seems everyone's taken their NA pics down (tech section, psycodelik) so I can't show you any pics. But all I did was connect the 2 pipes that run parallel outwards to wards the drivers side, via a giant coolant hose U bend.
And what about the Passenger side just near the IAVC just at the rear exhaust cam? join it over to the middle...
Shit lol my memory is getting hazy, yeah i'm pretty sure that's how I routed that part too. If there were pictures available I could give you a definite answer . Should be pretty straight forward / logical though, not too hard to figure out coolant flow on an NA.
Thats ok we found I diagram today hopefully Mike will chuck it up and you can confirm it lol. On the TT it was dead straight forward but after seeing two different ways im not sure which one is correct.... pics will come up in the morning.
Can go further. The water pipe that runs through the IAA isnt necessary either, thus leaving you with only 1x 6mm nipple on either of the hardpipes at the back of the motor that needs to be looped together. Dont think you can do it with the motor in, but I unbolted the 2 hardpipes at the back of the motor and had the 2x above-mentioned nipples welded over, effectively having the only hoses at the rear of the engine being for the heater core. With the motor in situ, think that the lower plenum has to be removed to do this.
seeing as my front quarters are off i really want to remove the egr stuff sitting behind the wheel arches ect. how hard is it? can i do that and leave the hoses on the plenum for another day? all i see is a heap of weight i can piss off buy removing this heap of hoses n shit *puts on flame suit*
Its not really THAT hard once the plenum is off. Took me about an hour or so and had to unbolt one of the water pipes at the back of the engine first. Use a stubby (14mm?) ring spanner to undo the EGR bolts. A ring spanner with a built in ratchet would be easier still. I left the pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold bolted to the EGR and removed the EGR and pipe together.
agreed. while the egr valve removal does suck harder than a crack whore needing a fix, it is in the end only 2 bolts and can be done in a couple of hours i found the bolts would hit the firewall once wound out, so a bit of wobbling and a little force is requred to finally break it free
