hi guys, i keep getting stuck in either 1st or reverse gear usually while parking (on low revs)... car stalls and gear comes out normally otherwise i need 2 hands to force it out of gear when stuck.... what is happening and what must i do to stop this? cheers johnnyc
how far off the floor does your clutch relise? you clutch could do with some adjustment or needs replacing
hey mate, its a brand new clutch. just done a twin plate back to a single plate, fiddled with it heaps and adjusted it heaps with all new parts. when u say adjust the clutch, from which point should i look at? cheers johnny
the adjustment on your pedal box. if the clutch is relesing right on the floor its going to be hard to get out of gear when your not moving.
jsut asked my dad he has a garage that build gearboxes manual and automatic, he said if its only 1st and reverse it gets stuck in it could be synchro they can get bured up on the gears as first and reverse are on the same shaft.
sychro hey??? ive yet to try that thanks heaps! ive adjusted the crap out of the pedal box, throttle position, clutch master pin and etc.... guess ill give the synchro a crack. thanks again mate! on another note, my cold start is out of wack now having fiddled so much with all the adjustments. i need to rev the thing upon cold start to avoid engine cutting out, i thought it was a simple adjustment back to how it was but even doing so it still doesnt kick into cold start mode but rather just sits on normal revs ggrrrrrr
Ideally you need a consult cable to do this easily. You have to adjust your TPS to give an output of 0.45v (in reality, 0.44v is the best you will get) at idle. Then make sure it is normal operating temperature (run around the block a couple of times), turn off your AC, lights and stereo, and then adjust your IACV to give between 750 and 850 RPM, again at idle. That's all the adjustments done. If she still runs rough, clean your CTS plugs and throttle bodies. Oh yeah - the synchro's are inside the gearbox - not adjustable. You can replace them, but only if you know the inside of a gearbox well. Basically replacing your synchro's is overhauling your gearbox.
It really does sound like a bleeding issue to me. No amount of adjustment will have a permanent effect if there is any air in that pesky system. Bleeding them is a complete arse due to an overly conmplicated system design. There is NO reason in hell the cluch hydraulics should be difficult to bleed but they are in this instance. Dont forget to pay very special attention to the 8mm steel "pipe to nowhere" with a bleed nipple just ahead of the drivers side strut tower. Also, unbolt tyhe slave cylinder, use some kind of "G" clamp arrangement to keep the piston in place and bleed it hanging straight down with the bleed nipple poet uppermost. The "pipe to nowhere" is about 1 meter of 8mm ID bent steel pipe connected to a T-piece down at the chassis rail and terminates up ahead of the high side strut tower with a metal block and a bleed nipple which is slightly lower than the pipe itself!!!!!!. My advice to all is to remove that uselees "pipe to nowhere", block off the T-piece it bolts into or just have a single braided line made up to replace the entire stupid setup from master cylinder to slave. UAS sell one for 80 odd dollars ready to go or your local hydraulics outfit could do it with some samples of the ends required to connect the the MS and slave. Your bleeding issues becomes a whole lot simpler once these changes are made. L8r E
Hi Dave, thanks for the insight however after adjusting idle to your recommended 750 and 850 RPM, my cold start struggles to kick in meaning on colder days i have to actually physically hold the accelerater peddle down to stop the engine from cutting out. surely thats not normal hence i jacked it up to an idling of 1050 to avoid having to hold the peddle down... hmmm your thoughts? cheers johnny
You need to clean your IACV. That is what adjusts the idle to compensate for Air Conditioner etc. However, did you use Consult when you adjusted the idle? You can't just adjust it. Did you adjust the TPS first?
if it was a twin plate back to a single that could be your problem did u check both thicknesses of both clutches side by side,,no adjustment will make any diff ,if the clutches r 2 different sizes
I had a kennedy clutch in enother car i had it was new and failed in about 200kms. just because it's new don't mean it can't be it.
Ok well this suggests the clutch is not clearing, it could be a fluid/air/cylinder issue as when parking or slow manovering you have your foot on the clutch longer than when driving and changing gear normally. Here maybe your problem, did you change the release bearing carrier when the clutch was changed? reason been a twin plate clutch unit is taller and so has a shorter bearing carrier, a single clutch with the wrong carrier fitted will soon after fitting experience clearance issues due to the lever and bearing position been too far back, this gives late bearing engagement and extended slave cylinder movement both of which rob you of active clutch pedal stroke action. Jeff TT
