Hey guys, Thought I'd start a thread documenting information I find as I research info as I start tuning my Z32. If anyone has found interesting articles, please link to this thread Here's a link to an overview of the Z32 and a basic tuning guide from the Autospeed website As in the article I'll be starting with an exhaust, replacement SMIC, and intake + a boost controller, I might also add a Air fuel ratio controller to make sure the car doesn't run to lean or rich. Is there anything else I should look at replacing such as the Radiator or oil cooler?
Some good info in that article and some bad. For example, the Z doesn't have ceramic turbos. The first step to increasing performance in the Z should be making sure it is running as it is supposed to be before modifying parts. Adding modifications to a sick engine is only going to further complicate things. So, has your Z had its 100k service? Is the ecu getting code 55 or are there issues that need to be fixed? Once you have a good base then you can get on to modifying. Intake / Exhaust / ECU / Boost is a good first step. Stock clutch won't hold much more than this without giving up, so you might want to leave enough money to do that when the clutch gives out. Whilst you are down there, think about a lightweight flywheel. Etc
easiest and quickest way 2 kill a engine .. start messing with the fuel and timing maps then boosting her up.... looks at kabir and his destroyed engine... get yourself a microtech and get it tuned. costs bugger all.. non of this 700 bucks a pop business !!! professional tuners can do amazing stuff !!!
First and foremost:- 1. Plenum pull and bypasses- allow aditional Intake cam cover gaskets and sealant for exhaust cam cover gaskets. 02 sensors are a little easier to access and replace with plenum off also. 2. 100K Service kit. Dont skimp out. Get the full kit, with tensioner and idler pulleys. Preferrable to combine 1 and 2. Optional to incorporate AIV, EGR, PRVR deletes Considering you are installing and AVCR, remove Safety Boost solenoids and all factory boost lines to wastegates, eliminating factory boost jets for AVCR installation. Removal of Intake Pipes and Plenum will often crack old and brittle IAA/IAVC piping. Replace it, or you will have major vacuum leaks. New flexible pipes make re-installation a LOT easier. With that, a previously perfectly running motor will bring up connector failure. Replace connectors for Injectors, Coilpacks, CTS, IACV/IAA assembly. A cheap alternative for Injector connectors is the commodore V6 Connectors, and they are Bosch Quick release style too. Wreckers are full of them, you will pay about $1 each for them. A simple modification to injectors, CTS and IACV/IAA will allow plug in fitment. A cheap alternative for Coilpack connectors in the N14 Pulsar. On the passenger side chassis rail, near the firewall, is an identical connector to the coilpack connector. Again, about $1 each from the wrecking yard. Only 1 per vehicle however. Service connectors for AFM, TPS, CAS. Replace if necessary. Overhaul cooling system- 1. Replace upper and lower radiator hoses. Ebay Silicone kits are good, and well priced. 2. Radiator- Get it flushed, or replaced. Again, Ebay Alloy radiators are good quality and well priced. Minor modifications to top brackets to get them to fit properly. Change out your S1 PTU to S2 style. Relocate if you have the patience. This tidies up the engine bay a little and removes the PTU from a significant heat source. A bit of time with loom untaping and some rolls of quality PVC electrical tape, and you will be surprised as to how much you can tidy up the engine bay by either re-routing wiring, or removing connectors from deleted gear. Some of these steps may have already been carried out, but are a general list of necessary, PREVENTATIVE maintenance steps. If in doubt, change it out. Claimed "Full Past Service History" can be as dodgy as an Odometer reading. Get it mechanically sound, and you will be surprised at gains in not only performance, but also reliability, giving a solid foundation for modifications.
Air fuel meter is a good idea, but don't just stick one on and expect it to give you accurate results. Get your car on a dyno and compare the output to a proper one most dyno operators use. I will be doing this myself shortly. Depending on which you use (there are hundreds on the market) you may need to calibrate it.
Wow thanks guys, that gives more than enough to keep my pockets empty for the next month or two My car is getting a serviced this Saturday at A2Zed so depending on the condition of the engine, the upgrades will start as soon as it's 100% healthy. What's the best SMIC kit? Is there a ARC airbox style intake upgrade for the 300ZX? Is there a way to upgrade the exhaust, while keeping it sounding as close to stock as possible? Once again thanks for all your help guys! You have to be the most responsive and helpful forum I've ever joined. Cheers - Biggie
How deep are your pockets? Japtek smics are very popular, I personally have Z1 side-mounts, more expensive tho. No idea what an ARC airbox upgrade is but get a 3A racing pod. Expensive good quality exhaust parts with an X pipe is your best bet. Theres a GB going on magnaflow atm.
-Ashspec Massives -ARC airbox - yeh there is but i'd go with the dual maf translator and intake kit -Stock sound? Or stock decibel level?
Z1 side mounts where do I get my hands on a pair of them? I found the ARC thing, basically ARC make aftermarket air intake boxes that are more like factory items... I think racing pods can get defected by police, I also like the factory look of the ARC intake box Nissan 300ZX ARC super induction box I'll look into this X-pipe thing I have heard of this before somewhere.
decibel level or as close to as possible, I'll be driving the car daily so I don't want to attract to much attention or give myself a head ache everyday
Oh wow yea but for the price of that air intake I wouldn't worry about getting defected for a pod, as long as its secure its legal in QLD. 3A racing pods are under $30 I bought my Z1 side-mounts off www.conceptzperformance.com they use the stock airguides which most other cheaper side mounts don't and you'll need some made up to fit. X-pipes help reduce in cabin drone.
The Z intakes are hidden underneath the nosepanel so they are not very visible anyway. HKS Sport ot JWT Genie are pretty quiet
I've decided on a cat back exhaust system.... I'm going with the Borla Stainless Steel Cat-Back with H-Pipe I've found a supplier in Perth $1800 delivered anywhere in Australia, anyone know of somewhere cheaper?
2 magnaflow exhausts are much cheaper than that, even once you include the piping. Check the current gb on them. I'm on the GC too and don't expect to pay that for my FULL exhaust.
Yeah I had a look at the GB from Magnaflow they seem fine... but I've my heart set on the Borla exhaust. I'm happy to pay $1800 for it unless someone can get it cheaper
This IS Always A Good Place To Start http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=922678
Clutch & Flywheel Combo I'm guessing once I increase the power from factory and add some quality tyres, it will only be a matter of time before the old clutch gives way... Anyone got some advice on an upgrade - Taking in to consideration my car is driven daily, and I'm leaving Turbos stock, but swapping exhaust, intake, intercoolers, ECU, uping boost. Here are two that are of particular interest The JWT Clutch/Flywheel Combo looks cheap not sure of quality though Also thought its a good idea to replace the Flywheel while the clutch is out... and my favourite clutch manufacturer OS Giken - STR twin-plate clutch at triple the price and no Flywheel! I think this is a little over kill, but I'm sure It would take a lot of abuse! Can anyone with past experience swapping the clutch and flywheel point me in the right direction?
US ebay... Gripforce store... vg30dett stage 2 is what you want... Best clutch for the money IMO. It will suit what you want out of a clutch. They do lightened flywheels too, but I'd do some research on the effects on lightened flywheels to see if it suits what you are trying to do... I use a stock fly with a stage 4 gripforce. Cara's zed has a stage 2 and it is much nicer to drive...
