Alright... so... when engine went in there was an arguement with some hard lines.... dont ask why... but they lost. Anyway we chopped the hard lines before the engine / kink with the intent of running soft lines from there to the radiator tranny cooler etc. Now obviously its not doing what it should be doing... well it is but its leaking tranny fluild from there lol..... What are ways to barb a hard line? or to get a better seal etc? Would replace if some one had some and it was easy enough to do with engine in.
Im guessing the hardline might still be somewhat out of shape where youve clamped it. Not a wise move to just slide a hose over a smooth line and rely on some friction alone to keep it there. Hot-cold-hot-cold pressure-no pressure-pressure helped along with oil etc etc. Either replace the hardlines entirely or remove and have some hosetails welded to the hardline ends. Absolute ghetto quick fix is to remove the hard lines and using the edge of a grind ing wheel, grind several grooves around the tube for the rubber to get a grip on. Will keep the hoses on more securely. E
IMO running soft line is the quickest way to a blown gear box. Nevertheless, you could just flare the end of the tube a bit. You may have trouble getting it on. But it should help prevent leakage. Otherwise, you could use a "gas/hydraulic" type fitting. Ie, you put the threaded connector over the tube. Then you flare the end of the tube. And run a soft line with "gas/hydraulic" connector. As opposed to a "hose and ring clamp" arrangement. But like I said. IMO running a soft line is the quickest way to a blown gear box. I have learned this the hard way. Also you will probably find that a "hose and ring clamp" arrangement is relatively uncommon in hydraulic systems. Unless of, again, "relatively" low pressure, and at the same time, of large diameter??? However these systems run at a much higher pressure than what these connections are suitable for. What is a typical oil pressure for transmission??? I would be guessing it is higher then engine oil pressure. If you can replace hard line. I will be attempting to run hard line on all hoses on my Z. Apart from those from body/chassis to driveline anyway. This includes vacuum. Unnecessary, perhaps. More reliable, most definitely.
but the tranny lines have soft lines in them anyway.. i just extended said soft lines maybe another foot at best
Fair enough. I wouldn't know 'cause I diced my auto. They must have a soft line from chassis/body to driveline anyway. Point is if not done properly you will blow gear boxes. Just trying to help. Would still like to know pressure here if anyone knows???
soft lines from box har lines to the chassis then another set to the radiator... so 2 sets... or 1.. cant remember but there are standard bits in there... why would it be high pressure? just curiousity... its for lubing the box the same as engine oil lubes the engine and thats not under pressure.
I would get a cheap flaring tool kit, a couple olives, tube nuts and a hose barb with a bspp thread to suit the flare nut. Use the flare kit to finish the end of the pipe work, put your nut and olive on, then slide the barb over and tighten, this will crush the olive and seal it all up. Failing that you can just use a tube nut, reverse flare the tube and tighten it on the barb fitting. Or, if that's all to hard, just remove them and have Pirtek do their magic.
I would be guessing because of the type of fluid, their tenancy to leak, and stress upon the driveline the system is required to lubricate??? Don't know. That's why its a guess.
Why do you argue with me without the facts??? 1. OE engine oil pressure gauge reads 114 PSI max 2. POS speco mechanical engine oil pressure gauge I have reads 80 PSI max 3. This auto trans fluid pressure gauge reads 400 PSI max 4. This one 300 5. This one 400 6. This one 300 PSI max etc etc etc Trust me just do it properly. I blew 2 or 3 trannies in my EA when I was a kid. I had no idea it was leaking until a mate who ran a wrecker down the road where I used to live told me. By then I'd decided to change to manual anyway. Hey. I just don't want to see you blow up your gearbox. Good luck with your endeavour.
Hey if this is fact I apologise and stand corrected. But this sounds low to me and I am still guessing. How do you know its 40 PSI??? Why are these gauges rated 3 & 400??? Regards
Slowly reading posts will pay dividends mate. A2zed explained what those gauges read. They read the pressure applied to the internal clutch plates when you do hectic neutral-drive bombs Also think about how much pressure 400psi is and if that piss poor radiator could withstand that?
I'm not trying to argue or prove myself the guru. But here is a good link. It says: http://www.gates.com/downloads/down...OCPANote.pdf&folder=brochure&location_id=3332 I also read something somewhere along the lines that there is no such thing as low. However system pressure fluctuates. Particularly when changing gears. Regards
Pressure would be similar to power steering. Which is also higher than engine oil pressure. A lot higher AFAIK. Also, line pressure vs system pressure??? I would buy this. But I wouldn't take any chances with my gearbox either.
I call BS Arent the feed and return lines from the auto box to the cooler, bypass pressure. Resulting in it being low pressure. You can use them to suck in new oil and expel old oil for when changing fluids. Ghetto trick. Certainly not 3-400 psi worth of oil pressure. The 3-400 psi range would be the internal line pressures required to hold the clutch packs together for drive, etc.
Right.......... and where does that say that is the pressure in the fluid cooler lines? Listen to what you are told, THOSE GUAGES SCALES AND THE NISSAN DATA ARE THE LINE PRESSURE INSIDE THE BOX. Not in the fluid cooler lines.
Nowhere by Nissan but here by Gates OK sorry yes the Nissan data says this here>>> http://300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/at/090.gif & here>>> http://300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/at/091.gif So flare a gas fitting onto the hard line, fit a t-piece and run a pressure gauge sender. Enjoy!