If you do the mods you put up ,you will notice a significant increase in HP with better response on the NA. 1..intake ,exhaust and tune 2..lighter flywheel,pulley and tailshaft . is all you would do ...money and gains vs cams cant be justified on a N/A. Problem is people still try to justify a Single upgrade part as a gain , I sound like a broken record but upgrade in complete stages with complimenting parts and you will see a big difference in performance. Do a before an after dyno run . .
Couldn't agree more. Hence why i mentioned what my plans were as it is sorta relevant to the discussion. Not worth having a stock standard engine and fitting a UDP and expecting it to suddenly spit out a tonne of HP and Response.
definitely, accleration/speed is merely a struggle between weight and power. less weight will always make the car more responsive and feel tighter. ontop of that it generally means better fuel economy, however with all of that i guess i'd only be saving 5-10kg on the suspension components, 5kg or so on swaybars, 1kg or so on pulleys, 10kg or so on driveline components. Still makes a difference no matter how small.
just on flywheel and crank pulley you could save 15 kg just on these. Don't forget weight to be saved from doing deletes of not so necessary systems and what not.
Don't over think it, a lot of things don't make as much of a difference as you would think while other bits do more. On a daily NA: 2.5" Catback Pod Filter UDP Good Tyres Good Clutch +whatever suspension work tickles your fancy But the most important one is the driver mod My NA ran mid 14's on crappy retreads with the above basic work. Tried a lot of crap over the years i had it and drove a lot of different setups. A lot of it is a waste of cash to be honest. UDP's are great too, never had any problems and the car was really nice to drive.
Hi mate, My input on this would be go for it, it should work well with a lightweight flywheel (It doesn't seem really necessary if you keep the stock flywheel as the stock flywheel is still dead weight on the back haha) Anyway, I havn't done it personally on my car, but we did a lightweight flywheel and pulley at the same time on a mates car. Honestly it felt slower from a stop (had to kinda launch it to even get going quickly). but rolling starts were much quicker. :br: The place I noticed the Big difference would have been exiting corners. it really picked up quicker than it did before, and I noticed I wasn't down shifting as much as before as it would speed up from lower RPM's a lot quicker anyway (ie taking corners in 3rd instead of 2nd). It would generally speed up quicker in 3rd, then if I shifted down to second then back up again. One thing I will say though, you will need to drive a little different (that's how I felt anyway) as your RPM drops a lot quicker than it did before, so you will see yourself rev matching a lot more during down shifting and holding revs during up shifting. Even with the basic mods on a NA 300zx, you will see yourself keeping up/beating most near stock/lightly modded turbo cars (Skyline's and Silvia's <<pretty much all I drive around with in Brisbane ) in a straight line provided you can launch well and will beat them through the mountains
Seats can be exchanged for something lighter. If you could replace the clutch fan for an electric version that pulled an equivalent amount of air, that makes a difference on load on engine when accelerating
This is the input that i was waiting for. Thank you! Good to hear that in a straight line they can hold thier own with your typical p plater turbo cars, I was hoping that was the case. Around a corner i knew the Z would have it in the bag seeing as the Z32 is known for being one of the best handling cars to come out of japan, having a higher cornering capability than even an NSX or GT-R. My other car being an RX7 i understand how you have to drive differently and give the car a few revs as you're letting the clutch out to get it going smoothly. Definitely something i plan to do down the track, but seeing as i would need to mod plate seat changes that jacks up the cost a little bit. I plan to buy recaro SR3's once i have most of the basic mods done and sorted.
Summary for a fun NA This is what I had on my NA performance wise and I couldn't be happier when it was finished. Not a heap of mods but it was a very revvy car, handle well for the weight and I never had any problems with it because of any mods. 1. Underdrive pully with water pump overdrive pulley - 6kw gain at the wheels shown on a before after dyno run. 2. Extractors 3. Cat back exhaust with small exhaust tips, 2 inch x4 4. single piece drive shaft 5. KYB adjustable shocks with eibach springs 6. stock wheels with Good Toyo tyres. 7. HD exedy clutch 8. Pod filter
Huh? Have you ever driven a GTR? Sorry to say a GTR will trounce a zed in the corners....NSX should be even better still.
For straight out cornering speed the Z takes the cake. I'll see if i can dig up a road test conducted a few years back now. For clarification im not talking about a 35 GTR because thats supercar territory and thats a whole new ball game. And yeh i have driven a 32 & 33 GT-R
I've had an underdrive pulley on my NA for a decade/250,000km and have never had a problem with it. The pulley is definitely worth it, it made the engine noticeably more responsive. Pod filter was the same noticeable improvement again. Always wanted to do the exhaust but could never get hold of the headers so I never bothered.
I was actually talking to Rob and he can get headers for a RHD for $550 stainless steel, mandrel bend, made in AUS on a jig specifically for RHD cars. So that might be able to help you?
Unorthodox has a under drive pull the same size as oem just lighter. So that fixes the problem with things being under driven but from what I've head that's not a problem. And I've head 20 hp gain but not sure if at the wheels or fly wheel
Gains from purely a lighter front pulley are incremental at best given the very small diameter of the front pulley to begin with. I would call fitting a stock sized, but lighter front pulley a modification for modifications sake. AKA WOFTAM The real power gains come from slowing down power sucking engine accessories. Unlike engines, waterpumps, fans, alternators, PS pumps and less so, AC compressors are specced to work optimally within a surprisingly narrow RPM range and just become significant and increasing power soaks when asked to turn above those rpm. AC system tend to self regulate refrigerant flow/pressures so its more a parasitic/mechanical loss there but alternators have a cooling fan to overcome, PS pumps just pump fluid around uselessly creating heat, waterpumps just create pressure and drag since the water flow rates around the engine are largely set by the coolant temp thermostat. The engine fan is a glaring example. I cannot remember the figures now but above *blah* rpm does not significantly increase airflow but power required to turn it increases in bucketloads. The viscous fan clutch takes care of this as it does not provide 100% lockup and slips to more or less maintain steady max fan rpm as engine rpm rises until the viscous hub temp drops and the fan unloads completely and then becomes a significant restriction to ram airflow.... another story!!!!. During development, the accessory speeds are optimised for the majority of conditions that the car is sold for. Which is around town. The pulleys are so sized to maintain sufficient water flow, airflow, hydraulic pressure and electrical energy at idle to cope with any heat/traffic scenario. Certainly not suitable as a competition machine or powah hound where the rvs are kept much further up in the range!!! So the slower you can get away with turning these power hungry accessories, the moar powah available to drive the bits that matter, which are the wheels. And there is a shittonne there to be had! Next time you do some maintenance, try flicking all the accessory belts off, start the engine briefly and give it a few good hard revs and behold the difference in engine response. Its more than just noticeable. ANY reduction in front pulley diameter WILL result in real world power gains! The smaller the pulley in relation to the accessory pulleys, the greater the gains. Simple as that. BUT, the gain in wheel power needs to be balanced against possible overheating and electrical voltage loss in heavy traffic along with slowing PS response and noise. FWIW my NA has a UDP with bone stock everything else and I have never experienced any issues with overheating in extreme heat and traffic or undervoltage electrical systems with all electrical systems loaded hard. E
So how are you enjoying it? Did the UDP blow up your motor?! LoL. Getting a one piece driveshaft for better response too... Just driving enhancement is all I'm after as well. Owned TT before plus other faster cars but I just love my Z
yeah man!!! Cooked it. Water pump too slow and it eventually seized due to turning too slow Power steering has no effect at low revs, buzzez and shattered all the vanes in the pump Battery goes flat every second day Aircon wont go cold unless about 5000rpm And finally i snapped the crank half way along due to flexion having nowhere to go. Powah gained tho was amazing including the lighter flywheel and one piece prop-shaft gained i reckon 67 Killerwasps except the incredible amount of driveshaft harmonics generated and transmitted along the shaft pulled the teeth off the pinion in the diff, loosened all of the half shaft flange bolts and overstressed the tyre plies leading to the treads flicking off between a couple of sets of traffic lights. there was also the problem of the induced harmonics causing the cam snouts to shear off behind the pulleys but some fencing wire and rubber bands sorted that out. Not to mention the permanent hearing loss from the high Db sub-audible noise pulses induced into the cabin that eventually popped the screen out and broke the rear hatch lock. All in all the UDP works perfectly well!!!!! :br: E
I had to thank you..... it was a great laugh reading this. not that I believe a UDP has any benefits but this is reminiscent of a certain members NA intercooler trolling of SAU - ie plenty of great terms strung together in a viable sentance
