I've been having problems with lifter failure for some time and now looking to replace them. Just looking for some discussion on options. Option 1: CZP about $750 for a new OEM set. Option 2: EBAY aftermarket lifters $350 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-RB20-RB25-HYDRAULIC-LIFTER-RB20DET-RB25DET-R33-R32-VG30-Z32-300ZX-SKYLINE-/121402431583?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c4426185f&_uhb=1 Option 3: Second hand OEM. Is there a way to tell if they are still good, or would I just be replacing bad with just as bad. Does anyone have a set that have come from an engine that is known to have no issues.??
I've had very good oil pressure at start up and low at idle. I suspected the sender so I've just replaced it. Haven't driven it yet to determine if this has made things any clearer. the engine has been reconditioned and has a new oil pump so I wasn't expecting a problem there.
Oil pressure will not be an issue, you will knock out your conrod bearings long before you will see any effect from low oil pressure on your lifters. Remember there is a restricting oil flow nozzle in both sides of the block so any oil flow/pressure will be preferentially seen on the Main and conrod bearings. Top end of heads will be fine with an oil flow. You dont say if you have replaced lifters or just serviced them. If you havent replaced them then do so with OEM, unless you like pain!! I take it you have replaced both the nozzles and the check valves, about $10 per side but an expensive procedure.
Have you ever suspected the intake timing gears? When they rattle they can easily be mistaken for lifter chatter. I've replaced two sets for customers in the last 6 months.
So you've taken out the failed lifters, filled them with oil and checked that they leak and dont hold pressure? What failed each time? The spring,seal,or bearing?
Martin / syntax_X: I serviced the lifters. Disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and they seemed to hold pressure. I really don't know where the point of failure is in each instance, only that they lose pressure. Here is what they look like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sQuwta3oEA First a couple on one side then one on the other bank. I'm sorry which nozzles and check valves? LOL, yes and replaced them. It's actually what I thought was wrong with it at the start, but turns out they were fine .
On this subject. Just reassembled the motor and when I checked the lifters which had been in a box for 6 months, face down one had rolled over onto its side. All the lifters bar one could be made to move and then bounced back. Should the lifters be solid or be able to be compressed?
You fill the valve bodies up, get a pin and press down on the bearing while squeezing the valve to release oil. This way they have oil inside them but not so much they are overfull and past their lash point. filling valve bodies to the brim making them rock hard is a really bad idea. Quick way to wreck them and stop your valves from ever closing fully. Lifters fillup with oil quick, itll be noisy at first untill they find themselves
Yes this is what I did. I basically let them fill themselves by pressing in with the ball held in, and then let them return (spring driven). I did this until I felt there was no air left inside. I was unaware of this. I also didn't realise that they'd fill quickly once the engine was started, I thought that was a very slow process. Do you think the technique I used could overfill them?
I forgot to add when you have the valve body fully depressed tip it upside down and pour the excess oil out. Then tip up and release and insert into lifter. I couldnt find another method that made sure there was not too much oil in them and all containing uniform amounts of oil.
Pull a firm lifter out of your head that has self lashed and compare its height with one you have filled. If your filled one is higher your overfilling.
Wouldn't this just empty the valve body of oil and suck in air? My technique was the direct opposite. I filled it with oil, depressed a number of times so that the oil was sucked into the body, letting it return out under spring pressure and self fill with oil. I then replaced them into the outer lifter shell. Not saying this is right, just interested that it's the opposite of what you have done. I did check the heights after re-installing and they all looked pretty much the same.
I always fill them and pour out excess with spring /lifter depressed. If you overfill them then valves will stay open a bit and its a really hard task to get engine to start with no/low compressions. So I always get them so I can feel a little give when installed prior to fitting camshafts, yes they will rattle for up to about 3 minutes, but does no harm. When rebuilding lifters ensure that you can turn the lifter once you have pressed it past the retainer. Any binding could cause the lifter to stick once hot, its not a strong spring. Any doubts take it apart and recheck or renew. If your concerned that oil doesnt flow through these lifters very quickly, I have just dismantled all lifters from engine that span 3 main bearings on the track. All of the lifter had particles of bearings in them. Filter failed because of quantity of debris. The oil nozzles and check valve I speak of are pressed into the block on both sides. Heads have to be removed to see or access these.
Seems my technique could do with some improvement then. I think I might just pull them all and start fresh. As for those nozzles and check valve, I can only hope my engine builder looked at those.
As long as there is some oil in there it will be fine. The issue is about too much oil and the lifter holding valve slightly open when it should be shut. The reason you check the ball valve operation during your servicing of the lifter is to see whether it holds the oil in under pressure. If you have too much oil in there there is nowhere it can easily escape to. If only a small amount of oil is added then when oil is available, the lifter will pull in as much oil as it requires but obviously cannot take more than is required. Any air is gradually replaced with oil and the rattling stops. So having a soft lifter is not a problem it corrects itself but a lifter with too much oil will prevent engine starting and will take a hell of a long time on your starter motor before engine will start. did this once.
Martin does that mean a solid lifter, as in it will not compress, mean that the lifter is cactus or it has no oil in it and needs to be serviced?
No, lifters will go firm/solid once they have self lashed. unless they are binded, during normal operation its impossible for them to overfill. its a user error thing
