Guys, can anyone shine light on "who" mechanic was that worked on engine build in Dave's (username: Altered State) slicktop I recently purchased? Apparently, the mechanic is known by forum members? I haven't been successful contacting Dave but will keep trying. In meantime, I have performed comp test on 2 of the right bank cylinders 7 1 on the left. The left bank read 150 odd, both right bank pots read 125-130.......great hey? Rebuilt 20k ago ey? I have booked car into mech shop for a leak-down test on Wednesday for the fuggin good news & the PCV valves to be replaced (may as well get done while it's there). I suppose crap could be in the IC pipes & lenum too & take a good while to clear? Basically I need to cut through the bullshit that I read on the threads concerning what maybe wrong with engine but surmises only, not facts! Some crap about turbo lines put on wrong bla bla...... Any info on mechanic just so I can determine the actual work that was performed. Don't know what the "receipt for thousands" refers to but the harness, lines (except for fuel) & sensors etc look old to me........ EDIT: got onto Dave. He used Dontec @ Heithmont? But guy he bought it off (mechanic), did the wonder rebuild so..........I keep going..........
Since Simmo isn't here much: "Curse of the $5k zed bro!" If it was Dontech then probably Joe did the work. Only heard good stuff about him...
Nah. A mechanic @ Aust Motor Services or something in Adelaide did rebuild prior to Dave buying the car. Since spoken to Dontec. They did comp test & all pots read low. When I get the leak down test results, I will know whether it is valves = heads off or worse, rings = I'm farked. Either way I'm farked but that's life.......sorry but not really thrilled @ present!
Getting a 'rebuild' 20,000km ago (without receipts) is similar to other such unquantifyable marketing pitches as: "A mechanic owned this car before me" "A old lady driver" "Changed the oil every 300km" Dude, just a word of advice- engines wear over time. 20,000km could be 20,000 racetrack km, or Twenty-thousand 1km trips on a cold engine. These cars have a spotted past, between imports, car yards, and owners using mechanics who may, or may not know what they are doing. Sure you might be pissed off, but if you're looking for blood and trying to lay blame thru multiple owners and workshops, you're sadly mistaken.
No, not @ all. Think you got me wrong there. Just wanted any info on the car. Car was guaranteed to be built 20k ago, by proud owner, not abused. Now this is why I'm pissed. I will take it on the chin though & once I know what is causing the comp drop, I will post back. I'm hoping it is just the valves & not the rings. The fact turbos were not touched when build (supposedly) was done & all else (sensors, looms, bypass etc) looks orig & old, makes me wonder? Also, why is it still responsive & have power. Not sluggish if comp is so low like 125-130?
Because 130 isn't that low for a TT. A lot of people have lower. Some wouldn't consider that in need of a rebuild, especially if it's even all round.
Thanks m8 It's not even all round though & I read that 175 was a top cond' engine. 125 @ the lowest margin? I'll be honest. I don't like workshops fullstop!. I did a comp test & 2 of the right bank cylinders were 125/130. 1 left bank cylinder was clearly 155. Guy I spoke to @ the imfamous workshop stated all of the left bank cylinders were 135 & all of the right bank cylinders were 120! How is that possible? Apparently also, he raved on about spending big money & getting more & more power out of the car. This is stated btw by the previous owner. All he wanted was a reliable car again, not huge mods........ I personally have no time for con artists. The reason I bought this Zed is I was frigged around for 12 months by a workshop in the first place concerning a project LPG boosted late 80's Merc 300E I was building. I still have the Merc btw & it breaks my heart to walk past it everyday, knowing it was abused.......... I'm sure the previous owner, Dave, is up front with what he tells me But there is something wrong with this car & I need to get to the bottom of it. I'm not thrilled with having to pull the farkin motor out 2 weeks after purchasing it when it was stated to be in great condition. I think that's a fair cop? P.S. thanks for PM's & support by those members too
Well, after speaking with Dontec, they confirmed comp readings as follows: Right bank: 120; 120; 120 Left bank: 135; 135; 135 I just finished a dry test myself: Right bank: 160; 120; 157 Left bank: 130; 130, 142 Um....either we have a lying workshop or I am missing something? Comp readings don't change, definately don't go up! Anyone care to comment? This is why I do not trust workshops. Dave wasn't impressed & neither were others spoke of so, now you have heard something but good about this workshop I guess........
Figures as follows: DRY TEST - L) 160; 120; 157 ----- R) 130; 130; 142 WET TEST - L) 180; 142; 178 ----- R) 156; 150; 153 Obviously, engine is farked. Prolly drive OK but the 120 reading I think is the culprit. My mechanic will still be looking @ it early tomorrow morn but wil be doing a quick emissions test to see what is the smoke. Oil or coolant? What I can't understand is I am using 10w40 oil & it doesn't burn any. Coolant is green. Referring to comp readings in m last post, if anything, readings should be worse as I am running fresh 10w oil, not a thicker oil. So how can comp readings go up. Of course they can't. What's a forum for if you can't warn members of shonks out there posing as great techs? I want to warn others & I will [TIS]
a) So, engine burns no oil, even with 10w40, yet comp is down? Perhaps oil rings are OK but comp rings are stuffed? b) Spark plugs are near perfect colour/condition, even though they're different types used in each bank? Can't wait till verdict tomorrow. Not sure if any good outcome will surface but if I can locate & halt the Indian smoke signals engine sends
Your compression readings are going up with the wet test. This is across the board, and may indicate that your valves are leaking. Have you also done a hot test? Clearances in the engine and valvetrain can close up to some degree as the engine reaches operating temp. Remember that piston rings have gaps. This bleeds compression and perhaps this accounts for some of the pressure changes you are seeing. Not all 'rebuilds' will touch the heads. For all you know the engine builder may have just honed the cylinder and chucked in new bearings, rings and whacked it all back together. This would show low compression due to the top end. Try not to throw mud before you know exactly what engine work was paid for, and what was delivered. Also understand that the deeper you dig into an engine, the more you will find that its still a piece of used machinery. You WILL find anomalies, and evidence to suggest that it is a used engine.
My comp tests were both performed as hot tests. Engine running temp. I think your right about the build. The cylinder with 120 comp may have piston rings bedded in better than say the 160. But I just wonder how performance, economy etc is effected by huge discrepancies? Mitch, wasn't meaning to throw mud but comp readings cannot change that drastic between tests with only under 2k mileage was done since. Original test was @ 100k, it has only done just under 2k since then? Stiil has under 102k on clock now. Wet tests with comp figures that rise dramatically like mine, indicate rings/piston wear/damage, not valves. If the figures did not rise with wet test, this indicates valve clearance issue as pots can't hold the compression. Thanks for feedback.
Are you referring to Dontex with this statement? Because I can't speak of the other mechs there, but Joe has serviced my car for 7 or so years and I couldn't be happier.
Pls let me get one thing straight! I am new to this forum. New to Zed's! But I'm not new to performance cars which I believe I'll soon make known. This is a Zed sight & I respect every member here. I'm not about badmouthing anyone. It wasn't a matter of speaking to Joe or not. I spoke with the company Dontex yesterday to find out about this farking lemon I just bought. Nothing else. I don't appreciate heresay or bullshit of any kind. Especially on a specific forum! Yes, sorry for typo, it was Dontex! The comp test readings were on file, exactly as I posted previously! I contacted the previous owner, Dave, who stated he was very suspicious of the workshop who gave him the "false figures" & as stated by him, he felt this workshop wanted nothing more than to have him spend big bucks to get the car to produce huge power. All Dave wanted was a diagnosis. Car was looked @ late last year with 100k on it! It has 101940k on it right now! Sensitivities & sentimentality aside, figures speak for themselves. Because I have respect for others, I will not say who it was I spoke to except yes, Dontex @ Vermont/Heathmont. I don't care personally whether you or any other member has had success with them. I am stating that other members on here who have PM'd myself & obviously want to remain anonymous, do not agree with you. If a workshop cannot get a simple comp test right, why would you trust a build to them? I am about warning members, not but-kissing to agree with anyone. Been around forums for quite some time & thought this was a GREAT forum, as it is. Pls don't take offense @ my tenacity..........I have been farked over bad by 2 workshops I trusted & was as fair as you could be with them. Patient & understanding as hell! They don't give a fark! Seems there may be another around? I want a healthy relationship with members on here who I am sure will find me an easy going bloke who luvs his Zed. If I didn't I would piss it off tomorrow make no mistake. Can't members see I want to know about this particular car as I am keen to get involved with it. I believe I have been had through ignorance of previous owner but, I will get over it. I just don't like being had!!!!!! Cheers to all
When buying a used car I don't think you can expect to inherit any kind of former warranty associated with the prior engine build seeing as you weren't the direct customer of said build. That's the risk with privately purchasing used cars, you buy it like you saw it... If the wheels fall off 2kms down the right then honestly, tough luck. I would suggest that you move on and work towards diagnosing the issues directly with your own selection of workshop and forget about any hidden demons associated with any prior work done to the vehicle.
"Well, after speaking with Dontec, they confirmed comp readings as follows: Right bank: 120; 120; 120 Left bank: 135; 135; 135 I just finished a dry test myself: Right bank: 160; 120; 157 Left bank: 130; 130, 142 Um....either we have a lying workshop or I am missing something? Comp readings don't change, definately don't go up! Anyone care to comment? This is why I do not trust workshops. Dave wasn't impressed & neither were others spoke of so, now you have heard something but good about this workshop I guess........" Id like to ask you, If the workshop is lying, why would they tell you lower numbers than they actually are, that doesnt make sense. Perhaps your compression gauge is not accurate?
I wasn't expecting a warranty & did state Dontex did not do the build. I did expect honesty in the sale details from the previous owner though Concerning the mentioned workshop, am I missing something or are the comp readings too misdiagnosed to ignore? I am not complaining about the previous owner. Misdiagnosis from a workshop was the point in question........ One things for sure, this car will be sorted when I give a fark. I just paid 12 months rego so it can stay on the road for @ least that long, then I will deal with this pathetic build As I said prior, I have a mint Merc in my driveway that I am heartbroken to have given up on. I busted my guts & spent big bucks to fix an idiots failure. But was taken for a ride by a heartless workshop (the performance shop for the Merc). Now I have to do it again it would seem. Wonder why I'm a little pissed?
Ah, they wanted Dave to spend on a rebuild? That was what he figured. My gauge is not wrong. It is new & a good quality unit. Obviously people are getting offended so I'll leave it at that. That was not my intention I'm sorry. I will sort the car & we can all be cool again
Id like to see you confirm this misdiagnosis properly before shooting your mouth off about a workshop on an open forum. There are alot of factors in play here. Firstly your compression tester may be inaccurate, you may be performing the test in a different way to how the workshop is. In addition to this, the engine may have been mistreated during its past 20k, over fueling, no oil chages, dirty air cleaner, over heating, the list goes on as possible causes for this motor dropping compression 20k after being rebuilt. So i challenge you to have your compression tester calibrated accurately or go to another workshop and have the test performed again
Agreed. So many variables yes! But, no comp test could come up with this great a difference mate! Wow! Ok. Dontex is the stuff on here. I will report back the comp/leakdown test that is being done tomorrow morning. Pls forgive me for shooting my mouth off concerning these gods! It's not about the build, it's about the misdiagnosis.......
