zx problems

Discussion in 'Technical' started by gibbon_tamer, Jun 9, 2009.

  1. gibbon_tamer

    gibbon_tamer Member

    hey guys im new to the site, just got a 1990 tt z32 and havn few probs with it. bout a month into buying it, it started drivin on 5 cylinders every now and then, the cat overheats and the exhausts started making more noise than usual (rough noise) and continously back fire or pop, also each time i accelerate black smoke comes out the exhausts. any help would be great. spoke to hyperdrive bout it and they seem to think its the wiring harnass as the car shakes at idle and drives on 5 cylinders making popping sounds out of the exhausts. apparantly its a common problem? help me :eek::eek::eek:
     
  2. Billo55

    Billo55 Mmm, Floor Pie

    Could be a number of things, has it had 100K service?

    In regards to running on 5, check coil packs, coil pack connectors, ptu (series one or two?)

    Black smoke is mostly likely due to running rich

    There is a wealth of knowledge found here in the tech section!
     
  3. gibbon_tamer

    gibbon_tamer Member

    ptu? hasnt had the 100k service, sais its done 36000 ks on the speedo buy its an import so who knows. where would you recommend i get my car worked on? tried x speed in o'connor and their not very good dont trust them, all they want is more money.
    going to try hyperdrive they seem more genuine unless uv got a better place?
     
  4. rom-vg30dett

    rom-vg30dett Always Broke

    Due to your car running rich (black exhaust smoke) I suggest changing your spark plugs because they can get fouled very easily when the car is that rich.

    Go to REPCO or Autobarn and ask for stock Z32 NGK copper plugs. They should be pretty cheap and if you read the tech section on here, you should be able to change the plugs yourself. If that doesn't fix it, go and see a Z reputable mechanic, not just a Mr. Know-It-All like hyperdrive sounds to be.

    I highly doubt your engine harness is an issue but if you believe you, they'll sting you and arm and a leg while they change it.

    Have a search on this website for problems similar to yours and you should be able to at least troubleshoot it yourself.
     
  5. OZ-300

    OZ-300 Godfather

    Such low kms, such high age, very likely the clock's been wound back.

    First thing I would do is the 100,000 kms service plus all electrical connectors that are average, plus all hoses

    My money on your current problem would be on the injector connectors as they can cause all of the symptoms you are describing (so can other things though) and they are known to fail through constant heat causing them to become brittle.

    All Zeds of this age benefit from a couple of days of general maintainance and connector cleaning.

    Good Luck.

    Cheers,

    Peter
     
  6. clint_embrey

    clint_embrey New Member

    also check your injectors might be a good time to get them ohm'd one of mine was faulty and i had the same problem
     
  7. TWIN TERROR

    TWIN TERROR Well-Known Member

    2nd injector connectors.Have a look at them and make sure the contacts arn't corroded , also check the the coil connectors for the same.If it's the problem solder on new ones.You describe pretty well what mine was doing and it was the injector connectors.
     
  8. samuraigecko

    samuraigecko New Member

    2nd Injector connectors are the main culprit here. I cleaned mine (as per Bry's advice) and it pretty much eliminated the problem. The problem seemed to be almost the same as yours so . . . .

    Here is what we did.

    - Hooked it up to ztalk and conzult.

    - Checked readings and found things out (tps voltage, cylinders not firing sometimes causing fuel to get into the cats and burn there. This caused the rough loud noises and the cats to overheat)

    - Also had bad O2 sensor, check that out too, small and common and can cause MANY problems. Replace if necessary.

    - If there is no spark or an injector fault make sure you replace anything that needs replacing first. Remove the negative terminal from the battery to change any of this stuff.

    then . . .

    - Removed the connector at the front that resets stuff (cant remember what he called it, someone here will know what its called. When standing in front of the cars engine bay it was on the front right of the motor) You disconnect it for 30 seconds and the ECU drops its data and starts fresh I think, clears the memory.

    - Remove negative battery terminal.

    - Cleaned corrosion off the injectors connections with a needle file carefully then sprayed with an electrical cleaner (inox etc). Be careful with the clips, they break easily. The retainer wire looks like a flat U shape |_| that goes into the clip. Lift it with a screw driver and slide the retaining wire out. Be careful because they can be lost in the engine bay forever if you drop them.

    - Clean all other visable and accessable electrical connections in the same way with care. Do them one at a time so you know what to plug back into where. Dont clean any active connections like from a coil pack etc, they can give a nasty surprise.

    Once this is all done and assuming your O2 sensors, the actual fuel injectors and the spark is good everything should recalculate and run better, probably pretty much normal again but this ill be short lived until things are fully reconditioned or replaced.

    Once this has been done you can then treat her well while you get everything prepared for the 100k service and everything else together to replace or recondition.

    Hope this has been of help :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2009

Share This Page