We have been doing lots of mods to search for better track times. This info might be valuable to others and if nothing else interesting. I wish someone else did some of this stuff to save me time and money. Mods include removing rear cradle and we cut off upper and leading traction arm, ground off cradle bushes flush to lock cradle to chassis and effectively raise the roll centre from stock by about 15mm. We cut and shut chassis where we mounted the inner pivot points to upper control arms and traction arm. At the same time I linnished off excess slag on OEM welds and unnecessary brackets to save weight and welded in a few places to strengthen it. Made a custom Chrome Molly shorter adjustable upper rear arm. Using Chrome Molly plate we made optional different pivot point heights for the lower arms and rear inner steering arm. We string plotted the travel with toe and camber change and made changes for best settings. From full compression to full droop we found set it up to be less than 2 mm total toe change now compared with 4mm standard and raised the roll centre overall. See pics with car at static height and the top arms parallel or close to instead of inverted. We also raised with front roll centre by raising the bolt hole of lower inner by 30mm and had previously raised the inner upper by 10mm which we will next be doing major surgery to the inner bracket to raise this a further 20mm at least. We had also previously raised with pivot point of the radius rod forward bolt location 30mm. We also made custom alloy and urethane engine mounts to lower the motor 14mm to lower the weight in the car. Also has a new much lighter Carbon Kevlar front splitter, carbon fibre battery only 3.2kg. Upgraded to 997 GT3 Cup callipers which I bought second hand and had hard anodised, and reconditioned, 380mmm x 34mm 72 vane Brembo pasta slot rotors with hard anodised adapters and alloy hat with bobbin drive same as V8 Supercars. PS Thanks to almost 11 second Ron ( Wizard ) for his metalurgy refinements in making these changes and (Adam Quik300 ) for helping me last Saturday at Wakefield.
Looks great John... But more importantly, I bet it does the job! Silly question, but since you have changed the rotor hat, has that changed what wheel offsets can fit?
JP... if i can say just keep an eye on those welds, im not sure how much heat/stress or movement you will get in that area but it looks just spot or tack welded from what i can see in the photos. Also the bottom one looks like it has a crack already at the bottom? id weld that little crack up as it already a starting point for it to snap off. Just a suggestion. Max
Floating rotor like mine...nice John when are we gonna race mate.? I might be entering superlap next year :bow2:
Answers Tein monotube, adjustable shock, height and base with custom valving. Brakes offset is same as same thickness of the hat which has not changed. We adjust wheel base with adjustable rose jointed upper and lower arms and this makes a difference with certain amount wider than rear wheel track as less understeer. No faster with the first time out and had a few issues and dodging lots of slower cars that held me up. We took pyrometre measurements on tyres and know where to make changes to go faster next time. Best was 1 min 6.5 second to a EVO 9 with carbon doors and well set up and suited to the track better. Also we know in theory at least we need to raise the front roll centre more as rear is higher and expected it not to be right yet, and ran out of time to do both. http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?13/09/2008.WAKE.S4.Y
GO for it Go AK it would be gold watching you have a go, although you will need to get rid of those bling 20's. MaxsZX thaks for the interest and feedback all helps. No cracks at least not prior to the track and it is still on the trailer and have not checked it yet.
Looks like steps in the right direction... Would Marty that was quickest on the day be Marty Notaras? Has he put the larger turbo back on?
Rear cradle tilted forward? Has that been done? Its supposed to improve traction by negating the built in anti squat. Reason for the question is I recall you had corner exit power down problems at one time. Or has that been rectified some other way?
Squat angle Yes did the squat angle thing a while back by moving the forward pivot point of lower control arm down to be same as what R33 and R34 are. FranZ I don't know anything about that evo other than it looks like it has all the aero, power and tricks going. I just put the SLot Car on the hoist and found left rear CV boot split. This put grease all over the wheel and would have put some on the tyre which would not have helped either.
