Not sure what or where my thread is I started yesterday re Oran Park but anyhow I will start another? Took the slot car out to compete in a Super sprint yesterday at Oran Park south circuit. Had the old faithfuls there Wizard and then later Oni and Chili. Chili you did a great job making me laugh again but also confusing me in a tense day. You need to use your immense array of ammunition on my competitors. The car was strong and no probs on the dyno 330rwkw run after run on race tune then as soon as got to the track and took her out it had a miss and was running on 5. Still faster than anything else there on 5, although there weren't many fast cars there lots of old Dato's. One of our customers was there in his GTR but went past him like he was standing still. It was only mild mods though. Anyway turned out to be a wire to one of the small connectors inside the coil plug to number 1. The only part left from the original loom. I am waiting for a new set of 6 coil plugs to arrive. Anyway after trying the bush mech method and cutting up bits of led wheel weight we found laying around and jamming that in which worked for a few laps, we ended up finding someone with a soldering iron and fixed it. With only 6 cars on the track and lots of gaps it was hard to get a run and test etc and finally got it sorted around 2pm. Then zed was fast and strong and squirming and around the track with a vengeance. Prob is I had so much traffic as I was about 9 secs faster than most of them. It was very frustrating as could not get a good run. Was running out of day and tyres were gone with steel belts coming through on the front right and rear right and only got to do a few proper runs. Best was a 49.09 which is still faster than any other car yesterday by miles and faster than any GTR around there but should have been much better. Will have a vid up next few days hopefully. Big thanks to Wizard , Chili and Oni for your help and support.
On the subject of coils... Splitfire has released the "Super Direct Ignition System" ie coils, for the VG30DETT. J.
Great news I did not know this and great news. Zeds rarely have probs with coils unlike Skylines which regularly do, however the blue Splitfire coils also give a stronger spark. I was going to convert to external stronger than factory coils with leads which also don't get as hot sitting in the motor. Now that Splitfire make coils for zeds I may go that way.
I was looking for that thread last night... ...and couldn't find it. Was curious to know how you went. Sounds like another fun day at the track! I spent the whole weekend in the passenger seat trying to teach Joe Average how not to die in a car! *sigh*
No sweat John Always enjoy working on the slot car, and watching it kick arse even if the fingers were getting burnt on the hot engine.:thumbsup:
Here is the link to the website of the Japanese manufacturer: http://210.251.65.116/splitfire/top_home.cfm These are not yet listed on the American page. Costly though at RRP 59,800 yen. They were released end of September 2004. And the tech article (Japanese!): http://www14.synapse.ne.jp/falcon/club/diy/di.htm On a different note, the guy who wrote the tech article has those earth wires that everbody seems to be getting over here (along with all sorts of other earth related gizmos and noticing good results (from dyno testing). J.
Yes and no Last UAS track day the time keeper did not time me in the afternoon when it was doing 48's by my knowing what it takes and feels to do this time and confirmed by some of the Zed forum stop watch timers. The best time he clocked me was only 50 something. Last year there at a Super sprint I did 48.36. and did a nother 48 something so not just a fluke. On Sat I was driving the wheels off it pushing and sliding it to the max on Sat but with canvas and steel belts showing through the tyres, it was a slippery beast. Also as I said heaps of dogem cars inthe way. I need more neg camber I know that much as the tyres are scrubbing bad on the outside especially front right being a anti clockwise track. Tyre temp probe confirms this although not as obvious as I thought. May even set a stagger as Eastern Creek and Oran both anti clockwise with Wakefield being clock wise which we could change for this track the opposite. He Franz what you say about doing this or anyone else who does and knows about racing and not Grand Turismo?
Stagger... I know of a few guys that have done it for Barbagallo Raceway (clockwise, 7RH, 3LH corners) and it works for them. I don't know Eastern Creek or Oran Park well enough, but the big trade off is that on the left hand corners the caar will feel alot more unstable, especially at higher speeds. Were both the front and rear right hand tyres showing even wear or was the front wearing alot more; ie was the car understeering; if so, more camber and possibly even softening the front a lil should help. What sort of surface is Eastern Creek and Oran Park; is it the rough bitumen or more of a hotmix surface?
Track info Eastern Creek is smooth and not sure about the type of surface. Oran is a bit bumpy. I will get it wheel aligned to check as I did hit that tyre barrier at Drift Nationals and may have bent an arm front right and effected toe angle. It was under steering a bit. I am getting two either side front carbon winglets made and a splitter which will also help a lot. I will give it more neg camber also. Oran has 5 lefts and two rights. Eastern Creek lots more of both but also anti clockwise and always punishes the front right outer edge way more than the rest.
Really Never heard fo bigger side wall and bigger rim I know on dirt speed way cars they do but on the track? Bigger on the side taking the load Franz? Wonder what V8 SuperCars and other serious race cars do, but then what are they aloud to do. Maybe talk to sports sedan guys. I think a bit more neg camber on both front with more on the front right for Sydney tracks and Wakefield the opposite, might be less tricky and expensive and get the result.
It isn't that common... ...on track racers... Speedway (dirt and speedway) are obviously the biggest users of this technique. Most people play with the suspension more than rolling diameter. Asking around today, I've also found thats its more the front wheel drive circuit racers that work with stagger and normally only on the rear as it aids with high speed stability apparently. Thinking about it; running a different rolling diameter couldn't be good for the diff!
Got the word I spoke with someone today who is in the racing industry and also does lots of racing. Also clarified what the serious race boys do that have the time and money to tinker and change set ups for different tracks etc. With out getting into the fine detail basically set the toe angle to favour the left turn at the detriment of the few right corners such as at Oran. He said a big no to have different camber from one side to the other as unsettles the car too much. He did agree I prob need more like 5 degrees neg front instead of current 3.5 neg and maybe around 2 rear instead of 1.5 current. Will need to do piro tests at the track as well as check tyre ware.
Well there you go! I've also thought more about camber in speedway environments - most of those cars that run different tyre sizes normally have locked diffs rather than anything with some slip! Where abouts is the most tyre wear now JP? Is it on the shoulders?
Wear Drivers side front outside edge and same rear. This is consistent with harsh left hand turns. I will get another wheel alignment though as toe may be out after clipping that tyre barrier at the Drift Nationals. I hit front left and bumping a few ripple strips after 6 track days in last few months. Re the diff it is not locked but has a tight custom GTR diff with 90 kg clamp load clutch pack.
Another approach would be to try to up the alternator voltage output, or build a power supply for your coils. If you can raise the voltage at the coils by as little as 2 volts (eg from 12 volts to 14 volts) you can potentially get around 30% more primary coil power, which would translate to a substantially stronger spark. Easiest way to do it would be to wire a higher voltage source into the input power wire of the ignition relay, and leave the rest of the systems to run off the standard acr power system. You could get a higher voltage by tinkering with the existing alternator regulator, but you'd then run the risk of frying other electronic equipment. A neater solution would be a dedicated power supply, that uses 12 volts DC as an input, and pumps out 14-18 volts DC as an output, at a fairly high current rating. Some existing laptop PC in car power supplies might just be able to do the job as a trial, but you'd probably want more current capacity than they can supply. Hmmm. maybe I'll take that back. Coil primary resistance is 0.7 ohms, which would require around a 20 amp peak power source to rapidly charge the coil at a supply voltage of 14 volts. It would probably give the coils a hard time, but as you said, Zeds rarely have problems with coils, so there may be some safety margin which you could take advantage of. It shouldn't worry the PTU, as it switches the coils to earth, so it wouldn't see the extra voltage. If you wanted to trial it on a dyno, you could always use a separate 20 amp power supply to supply power to the ignition relay output, and do a direct comparison. Dick Smith Electronics sells a 3 to 15 volt power supply that uses mains voltage, and can supply up to 25 amps continuous for around $300. If you got hold of one of these, you could vary the supply voltage to the coils real time on a dyno, and see the effect. The power supply would also double as a bloody good battery charger and general auto power supply too, so it wouldn't be money wasted. Beefing up the spark energy can then allow you to experiment with opening up the plug gaps a little, and you might even find some more power there. Food for thought, anyway. :zlove:
