Hey everyone, I have a 1992 twin turbo and it just died on me this morning, I seriously have no idea what caused it. It was running fine yesterday until I stopped at home and it started misfiring heavily out of both exhausts and I let the turbo timer run out and started it up this morning it kicked up at 1,500 rpm started missing hunted for idle and cut out. The timing belt is due in 10,000ks so I'm suspecting it may have jumped a tooth, I don't know what else it could be I don't want to start it unless I can rule out the timing belt as I don't want to bend valves or anything, I'm going to hook up a consult to it and see if there are any error codes. The car was running perfectly before hand until I drove it home from shopping last night. Anything else I could check? I honestly have no idea. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you in advance, George
If the belt slipped you would be hearing more then just an unsteady idle. What ptu do you have installed? If series one, it could have shit itself. How old is your battery? Perhaps get this load tested, to check how healthy it is. And when you say it doesn't start. Does it turn over, wanting/looking to start, or just nothing at all. No puffs or smoke or anything?
No it will start, it just won't stay on, it'll run for a little but then turn off it has a series one ptu have been meanin to replace it but I don't wanna pay 800 for one from Nissan. I might ask my cousin when he comes over if we can swap the ptu over. The battery is relatively new. Hasn had a problem since. It'll turn on, hunt for idle, and just turn off after dropping and raising idle.
how many years ago was the belt replaced? you should be going off years not milage, unless you drive it like a taxi s2 ptu with pigtails are about $100 second hand and do the job. how long does the car stay on for before it stalls.
It stayed on for about 10 seconds or so and I didn't want to try start it afterwards. 24 degrees so it was a cold start, went up to 1,500 ad started dropping and raising then eventually turned off. And like it would drop to 500 then bounce back up to 1,200-1,500rpm, did that a few times and turned off. 5 years ago timing belt was replaced at 101,000 it's on 191,000 and I was planning to do it I was saving up for the kit, I don't drive the car much just to work and back until I get my daily re registered. I pulled the covered off and everything lines up. I've pulled the ptu out and I'm waiting for my cousin to come with a known working series 1 unit just so I can rule it out. Then ill go buy a new series two one. But one question if the ptu is failing, wont it just cut out and make it run in limp mode or will it stall the car, and will it cause misfire across both banks of the engine? Just a question, I thought it just makes the ecu turn to limp mode.
No A PTU can fail with a lot of different symptoms, It can get hard to start, cut out intermittently, cough and splutter or just cut out and not work again, usually it is because of heat and vibration that they fail. Series 2 PTU's can be purchased second hand locally for between $50 and $100 or you can search Ebay US and find them for about $30 to your door. I have bought a couple from the US and have had no problems with them, just have to be prepared to wait a week or two. your symptoms could be from a number of things and you should try to get someone local with datascan or such to come around and help diagnose the problem for you. Hope this helps, Andy
Thanks everyone, I'be checked the timing belt anyway just for piece of mind and it wasn't the cause, the car is prett much factory standard except more boost, exhaust and tune. I've hooked up the ecu talk and checked error codes and nothing came up so ill post and see if anyone has a data scan available. Ill swap out the ptu for a known working unit and if it is case the. Ill buy a series two one, was meaning to get one anyway just didn't have the time or money spare. One of those if it won't broke don't fix it situations with this car. Ill keep everyone updated. Thanks again hopefully I'm back on the road soon.
Sounds something fuel pressure related to me. Dodgey fuel pump/fuel pressure control unit perhaps Try a FPCU bypass to rule out. E
Hmm, possibly, I think this is going to be a rule it out repair process, where is the FPCU located in the car? And Is it easy to bypass?
Massive boost leak somewhere, is it puffing black smoke out back from running rich? Or possibly not enough fuel... does it run if you play with the throttle or does it just stall out?
Look in the for sale section. I have bought one of member Vader and it hasn't missed a beat. Comes with pig tails. Also this member sells them http://carcraze.com.au/ I have bought other products off him and great service. Cheers Dave
Okay, we worked on it most of the day, one of the vacuum hoses popped off completely, and now we put it back on, had to richen up the car to start it and unplugged the O2 sensors, looks like it's running on 4-5 cyl, it was running fine, turned it on let it get to operating temp, took it out have it full boost and it cut out, started backfiring like it wasn't running properly, it has a air leak and the plenum will probably have to come of to fix it, I don't know how many vac in hoses are behind the plenum if anyone wants to clarify??, so I going to check the coil packs tomorrow or the next day if I can, if not then I'm going to look at low fuel pressure/ fuel filter blocked. If anyone has any other suggestions please post them up, I wanna get the zed back on the road. By the way, I swapped the ptu. Thanks guys.
Yeah, I've ruled it down to a few things. 1. Blocked injector's - fuel lines or fuel filter. 2. FPCU 3. Coil pack connector's 4. Coil packs themselves. Ptu was swapped out, and the vacuum line that popped off was placed back on. Thanks.
Also, it blows no smoke, but is dripping fuel / water out the exhaust not o sure what it is, but it only happens when you play with the throttle, it won't stall now but it is misfiring on one bank, sounds like a cyl or two is out on the driver side, I'm going to test the coil pack connectors tomorrow after my new job trial. Ill see if I can turn it on and run it up till operating temp, see if it runs while its cold and then starts dying at operating temp or of it won't matter weather it's cold or hot. So yeah once I rule out spark ill start looking at blocked injectors (which I hope not as I don't really want to remove the plenum) but we'll see how we go. Lets hope it's a faulty injector or spark plug. It took a little to start by it fired up all okay and then started screwing up. So yeah looks to be one of the 4 things above.
As far as the coilpacks & connectors go, you would more than likely get a misfire & the engine would continue to run, if there was a fault in this area. It would be unlikely to have blocked or restricted injectors, fuel lines or fuel filter. You could always remove the fuel filter & shake out the contents into a glass jar & see if there is any debris. The FPCU could be a possibility, but I would still check the fuel pressure before I did anything else.
What could cause lack of fuel pressure? Ill take the fuel filter off and replace it anyway and see what happens, and what tools will I need to test for fuel pressure, also if its a fuel pressure issue and I bypass the FPCU and the issue is still present, will it be a fuel pump fault?
