Actually, its a nicer way to go. There is less transmitted driveline torque due to torque division in the higher 2 gears and you do your torque multiplication at the diff with alternative ratios. So its in theory a more efficient solution. As far as adapting is concerned, its easy and cheap. There are several ways. Cut the bolt-on section of a VG bellhousingoff, cut the same section off the new box with reference to the inlet shaft length and weld the VG pattern back on. Very popular with the SR20 drift boys hence the high price on R30 gearboxes now. Cheap and cheerful given Nissan stuff usually shares common input shaft dimensions. Other method is a simple ally adapter plate. Most gearboxes dont vary a huge amount as far as input shaft length goes so its either add additional spacers if the new box's input shaft is long or, skim back the new bellhousing to length. A flywheel spacer incorporating a pilot bearing spacer to put the flywheel back a bit if there isnt enough of the front face of the bellhousing to skim back You can start with 2 x 14mm steel plates, one a copy of the bellhousing mounting face for the VG with bolt pattern drilled and another with a copy of the front of the gearbox (assuming removeable bellhousing of course) an drilled to suit. Local profile cutter will do them for circa 100 bucks in mild. Or blow them out yourself with a blue-tongued spanner for the price of half a barbie plate! You jig and align the 2 plates up and weld in short steel tubes in a sort of triangular/girder pattern to fabricate a very simple "bellhousing". About 20 bucks worth of tubing. Then its a matter of just tacking/screwing/rivetting on light sheet metal to fill up the gaps and have the plates flycut for flatness and parallel. Perhaps add a release arm fulcrum if not using a hydraulic pusher bearing. Couple of hundred all in and another couple again if you have someone weld them up for you. There isnt a gearbox engine combination in the world that you cant adapt together easily with this last method. All thats needed after that is a clutch plate with the same spline as the new gearbox, a tailshaft and perhaps a release bearing suitable to run on the new box shout or a modified release arm to carry the new box bearing. All you need is a healthy dose of imagination and "can-do"!! Even if you had a tubular bellhousing fabricated up from scratch, it still easily beats the cost of one of those funky "race spec" 6 speeds hands down!!!! Just dont ever listen to people who say things cant be done! E
I'm aware that anything can be done and don't mind a good custom setup . but if there is a good bolt up setup designed for the application why stray I'll do custom if needs to be done ,not to be different .. but that's just me . .
Well. 10 large along with a rebuild to bolt in. Against about 3-5 large all in custom. Lay down misere! E
Problem is then the diff needs to change too, there's no shorter ratios for the 230 so he'd have to modify a diff case, adapt shafts and buy a new LSD as well. Played with the numbers a little the other day and even a 4.33 gives slightly longer total gearing than the HKS/3.69 pairing. That was using the "E" gearset for the 6060, seemed to have the most similar spacing to the HKS.
Oh yes true. but, at the end of the day, its still a far more attractive arrangement. There is no real need for the R230 diff for a start. Serious weight penalty and a choice of 2 ratios only with only a VLSD....pretty ordinary for serious use. The NA (R200) back end, a well proven and tough differential, along with its significant weight saving, then the relatively simple addition of a Skrine diff with its plethora of ratios and mechanical LSD options is a far more attractive choice than purely a 4.1 ($1000) modded r230 with a VLSD and thats all you get cock-o! Its a no-brainer, with a little more work, to give a far superior and tuneable package to suit many different circuits for most likely LESS money. Furthermore, if the custom option has a major failure on friday practice, theres a very good chance that a replacement can be sourced AND fitted in time for saturdays qualifying. The funky and rare bolt in option, in event of a failure means take it home and work out where in the hell your going to find any replacement bits and then add another couple of grand for a rebuild some time (most likely) well into the future. I dont see any argument here that favours in any way, the bolt in 6 speed option Im afraid. E
Still enough options for true LSD cores in the 230, I would imagine Rob already has one. Definitely can't pick them up on gumtree though. Weight difference is 10kg with the VLSD cores so that's definitely not nothing. Finding the good shafts for an R200 actually seems to be getting difficult, or they just cost more than most people that would like them are willing pay. I could be wrong on this one but I think only a few of the available ratios actually have the strength required for proper power, tooth size varies a bit between them.
Geez you guys like to complicate things Firstly the hks 6 speed can be rebuilt by holinger and it or the 0s88 sequential (if you have to custom fit) with the 3.69 is a far better ratio setup than the 2 overdrives box .. nothing to debate Acceleration anywhere in the 0 -300km will better THIS IS WHAT ITS ALL ABOUT FOR ME But yes more MONEY .. Secondly I have kept the R230 for 2 reasons , strength and the weight in the rear (low to ground) to help keep the 2 seater weight distribution more equal. :br:
Yeah thats my thing as well at the moment. Im not sure if i should go with the NA set up or just re shim the TT. I have both sub frames at home and the good one in the zed. All up for NA i would say 3.5k? to rebuild the hole ass end cradle bushes and diff and at the end would it realy hold good of power With tt . I guess its safe to say that yes it will hold good power and good punishment over a long period of time. And you can bet that you wont be changing it out for some time. What ill do is get a full price list for the NA set up ( complete ) and see where it stands (Note frome the big boys) definantly single overdrive. You would most likely need to play with diff gears on order to set up final drive / speed. . That hks box is great for its age it did what it was supposed to do. But its 2016. Yeah holinger can rebuild it. But really at what cost. We know nothing about that box if the gears are cooked then its about 1k for 1 gear (give take ) in total by the time it comes here in your hands and by the time you rebuild it this may cost MEGA $$ so at the end of the day. To be 100$ safe and have what you need. You know what to do. This hks weighs in at about 70kg. As a pose to 32 kg total and you can use a 5 plate clutch . 7.25 inch ... just saying
Maybe that's why you and I grip when we accelerate lol. I wouldn't mind those ratios after doing a calculation or 2 lol Might have insight to a birdie in the states currently in development of a 6spd gearbox for the 300zx to try and be a stronger, newer, viable aftermarket alternative between stock/98 And spending a kidney on ppg/sequential
Errrrrm... , what part of SIMPLIFYING things, lightening things (where you need to), somewhat MORE efficient torque transmission, and providing MORE choice with additional benefits for less than half the cost... are you having trouble with man?? If a 4.3 isnt slow enough, fit A 4.6. Employ a Torsen or mechanical LSD'd, Lockers, spools... whatever you want!!! When was the last time you heard of an R200 regularly spitting apart in competition!!!! A 230 isnt really an "upgrade" in the strength dept due to its design with the input shaft unly supported by 2 bearings. Youd need a 9" to beat even a 200. Harrop have been doing them (IRS) diffs for years! E
R230 was there and decided to keep it due to weight otherwise would of gone to the GTR R200 and the 2 ratios available are fine .Its the box as I said. In case you haven't noticed on my build ,its about the right setup more than cost . Simply put you can't beat the 6 speed with 3.69 on the Z32 for performance 0 -300km ... this result is more important than cost to me I like to keep things simple as bolt on parts .. only custom if I have to . You have a beer in your hand and I have a cup tea Your ideas are good but not for me ... :zlove: .
Be bloody annoying to have someone like me sail past you repeatedly, and at will, whilst drinking a beer at estimated half the cost sticking hard with the rationale that the current and heavier setup is the "right" one. I suppose one must define "right" setup then? Oh, by the way, with regards to adding additional weight around, say the diff area, you might like to think of your chassis polar moment and the polar axis of the chassis, and the negative effects of extending the polar moment of the car when movng weight around in an attempt to trim weight bias. You may be rather disturbed at how not right, that particular "right" way is. Dont spill you tea now! Chug-a-lug *burp* and a cheerful wave as I go by!!! E
Even the other tires he had before the ET held better then half that seem to be purchased. Then again I might need them with what I'm planning
