Wood under axle stands...

Discussion in 'Technical' started by noel0leon, May 15, 2016.

  1. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

    Hi all, I'm currently in the middle of doing a auto to manual swap on a 2+2 NA and I've only got one snag before I can get started.

    Geting the car high enough.

    My current axle stands take the car up to 400mm off the ground. And I've been told that it needs to be at least 500mm off the ground to get the gearbox out.
    I've seen people build wooden cribbing blocks to support the wheels and I'm on my way to building those (in addition to having axle stands under the car) But what I'm wondering is:

    Can I put 150mm of wood UNDER THE AXLE STANDS to raise the car higher. This way I just need to get 150mm of timber under the car instead of building cribbing blocks of 400mm.

    If this is do dangerous please do let me know. I'm just really keen to get this project started and this is the only thing stopping me.
     
  2. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

    No problem with using timber, would suggest using hardwood blocks.
    The biggest factor to consider is using commonsense, which is sometimes in short supply.
     
  3. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

    I'll take that to mean 'Just don't do it'
     
  4. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    It's fine dude
     
  5. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

    No............

    ...........it doesn't mean that at all.
    I have done it numerous times.
    I use hardwood blocks rather than softwood.
    Hardwood will not compress where the feet of the axle stands sit on the timber.
    You need to ensure the surface is able to support the load & the surface is level.
    Ensure the outside edges of the timber is larger than the footprint of the axle stands.
    Jack up both sides of the car, so jack the front & then the back (or visa versa), don't jack the offside & then the near side as an example.
    Metal car stands sitting on timber are less likely to slip in comparison to sitting on concrete (which is pretty safe) & far safer than sitting on metal surfaces.
    Be safe & don't stick your head under the vehicle unless you are 110% positive it is safe to do so.
    Remember, you will be pushing & pulling the transmission while your under the car, as well as levering the bellhousing bolts, so you don't want the vehicle falling on you, it will ruin your day!
     
  6. Zeo

    Zeo Active Member

    :agree:Well said.
     
  7. mtopxsecret6

    mtopxsecret6 Member

    When I'm lifting and supporting my car's on stands, I always push the car on the corners to rock the car so the whole car "swings". Doing this puts the car into a situation similar to swinging on a wrench and moving components/car body, though pushing the "shock/swing" far greater than what i would with a wrench. This make's sure the stands are seated and the car is settled, if its going to slip, this is when its going to. Ive never had a car fail on jack stands using this method. If the car wants to slip and fall, this is when i want it to do it. Doesn't matter if I've just damaged the car doing this test from it falling of the stands, I'm not under it and I'm safe.

    Use hardwood with a greater footing than the jack stands, and equally lift the car, not corner to corner to corner to corner. Lift front then rear, or vice versa.
     
  8. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

    Thanks for the advice guys. It's really appreciated.

    I've only got pine with me at the moment, but I'll source some hardwood asap.
     
  9. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    Pine will dent a bit under the stand feet but I will hold it

    You're being unnecessarily cautious
     
  10. stumagoo

    stumagoo Active Member

    Timber is definately a better idea than bricks or concrete breeze blocks.
     
  11. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    I regularly roll cars up on treated pine sleepers -so long as the base of the stand is sitting flat you'll be fine. It's good that you're taking your safety seriously; I'm sure it was only last week that a bloke in his 40s (ie old enough to know better) was crushed to death in Sydney. Think about it though, pine is strong enough to hold your house up :)
     
  12. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    I also use sleepers. Work well.
     
  13. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

    Nice to know that pine is ok. I made up a few test ones with some 120x40mm timber that I had in the garage. I'll test those out (car wiggling tip previously) and see how it holds.
     
  14. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

    This is what I'm terrified off.
     
  15. East Coast Z

    East Coast Z Well-Known Member

  16. Fists

    Fists Well-Known Member

  17. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

    Aaaaaannnddd I just found the answer to my solutions. Cheers guys!

    I'll finish making the wooden blocks anyway. I'll pop them under the wheels so if the axle stands fail then it'll fall on the blocks and I'll have more than 130mm of clearance to wiggle out from lol.

    No, I'm not paranoid at all.. :rolleyes:
     
  18. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    I use 50mm treated pine sleeper offcuts. I have about a dozen of them. They are just what you ordered to do this.
     
  19. Sketchy

    Sketchy Sick to the power of rad

    As an extra safety measure I usually jam some metal ramps under the end I'm working on and if the whole car is up a few spare wheels as well.

    Just in case the bit you're working on hasn't been touched in sometime and you have to get violent to get it off :)
     
  20. noel0leon

    noel0leon Member

    So I picked up the new axle stands on Sunday and finished building the wooden cribbing blocks last night. Will post up pics soon but it's looking like I can finally get started....

    Also, I'm going to try to find some spare steelies that I put under the car as well. Just that extra bit of safety.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2016

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