Its 4 am, the kookaburras are going off. I cant sleep cause I just so pi$$ed off with certain things going wrong this year. I am Trying to keep a sense of humour which is sick admitadely, but tell me anyone and everyone what is wrong in this pic ... http://s966.photobucket.com/albums/ae146/dydy20100/?action=view¤t=IMGP2470.jpg
The black turbo is a different design and the centre(cartridge)section is completely different dimensions to the one on the right. The Actuator has been offset in an attempt to stop the rod from blocking access to the threaded hole. The cast body of the cartridge is entirely different in shape to that on the right-hand turbo(see mounting bolt area on upper-left of threaded hole, and also covered hole with yellow tape to the right of actuator rod).
Loosen the bolts that hold the compressor housing and clock the housing correctly, your problems will go away, if that isn't enough consider slotting the holes for the actuator and adjusting the angle of that to help. Get some sleep before carrying on with the work, you will only screw things up when tired and pissed off
I agree, just loosen exhaust housing bolts and turn so actuator rod is at similar angle to original, you may have to adjust actuator rod length to fit.
If the exhaust housing is "clocked" so that the actuator arm is running straight down the grove in the bracket(same as on right turbo)then everything should be in line(the cartridge casting is definitely a different shape to the right-hand turbo).
I am going to go in support of black beast here, if this is just clocked there is a good chance that the wastegate will be held partially open, I say this as this is the exact problem I had not sure if it was the wrong actuator or what I clocked it on install without thinking about reppurcussions and had boost issues, it seemed like a boost leak but a leak test never showed it, in the end I had to put a bend on the rod, on later thinking I could also have redrilled the Rod as well, but either way if you clock it make sure the waste gate is closing fully before installing.
"make sure the waste gate is closing fully before installing" actually part of any turbo installation job You should also test the actuators operating pressure to ensure it is doing what you desire. To remove the optical illusion from the equation can you post a picture of each turbo looking from the exh outlet side, place them both so the exh inlet flange is horizontal. This will show us what is actually out/different and causing the angle of the actuator rod. To me looking at what we have so far it does not look like the turbo is clocked correctly & by moving the housing it will help (but not cure) the problem. Have you tried fitting the actuator from the old turbo? how does the rod line up then? What is the new turbo off? what is it made of IE: does it have a different comp housing etc? There is the option of redrilling the comp housing so that you have new mounting holes for the actuator.
true but in the haste of trying to sort stuff out its also easy to overlook, especially if one is new to this, I was just trying to break it down so things dont get missed and we have a "new turbo installed but no boost thread"
OT slightly (apologies in advance) For those dumb asses like me, here is a nice youtube explanation of what "Turbo Clocking" actually means.
Well this is how one of the turbos was sent to me. I am mechanically minded but not a mechanic. However, I think anyone can see that this is wrong. I just don't know how the builder of these can pass it off as a finished product that I have waited over 6 months for. the actuator does not even open its that tight of an angle. (It is a incorrect bracket but the pic may not show it well) the other is the old turbo off my car. I don't know wether to have them pulled apart to make sure the rest of the work meets correct standards or what. So disappointed I was hoping to fire up the old girl before xmas.