**WARNING** for thoes involved in rear camber arm group buy

As I originally suspected. the welds didn't look top notch.

And while installing the camber arms, doing the bolts up to factory torque using a certified torque wrench, the welds cracked, torque wrench was set for 90Nm workshop manual says 77-98Nm

So I would be concerned, you got yours on and they didn't crack, do you want to risk them cracking on you while driving? and possibly braking off... I think not.

Just a warning, I am not going to be using them, thats for sure.

Here is a pic


James007, your inbox is full.

 

That's ugly!

BUT, 77-98nm is for the OEM arms.
These aftermarket arms are constructed differently so you really shouldn't use those torque figures.
Looks like they've deformed which is causing them to crack.

 

ouch, i'm not feeling so bad now i bought the ttzed items.

 

No torque values were given, so I referred to the manual.

Thats what any one would have done, i would think.

but the welds shouldnt crack like that? if the factory torque spec was too much?

Only one cracked the other arm, so far is fine, but I would be worried about it cracking.

 

Who manufactured these arms???

 

Stuff like this.

About 2/3'rds of the factory torque settings is PLENTY.
Looks like the weld has broken because the bracket has been squashed by too much force.

 

Bracket

Well, the bracket part was bent outwards more on the arm that cracked from when I got it, but I didn't really think too much of it, as I though it would pull in fine when I did it up.

So in comparison to the other arm, the bracket was deformed on that side, being bent outwards.

So maybe the welds are good? and I just got a bad arm?

Like I said the other arm is fine.

 

Someone here said

the welds looked shity, so when i received mine
i chequed em, and they looked like good clean welds
should look.When you say they were bent, how much
was it 10/20mm, i think the steel should have bent back in, before that weld snapped,did you inspect
the welds before you fitted the arm, what did it look like?

 

NASTY!

90Nm is VERY tight considering your wheel hubs and rear subframe are close to 15 years old.

Is that a pic of the same arm with the dodgy weld??? ....the one which I requested you sent back to me ASAP before you install them????

 

Your inbox is full! I can't reply to your PM

 

the steel should bend before the weld breaks..
dodgy. 90NM is not alot of force.. if thats how tight theyre supposed to be, then who are you to argue.

wheels under under massive forces while cornering hard. (more than i could ever yank on my torque wrench)

scary

 

age has nothing to do with how tight a bolt should be. The 98Nm is

used because that is the point where the load bearing takes place. You'll most probably find that the rear traction rod, inbound lower control arm and subframe nuts are all around the same i.e. 98Nm as these are the critical load bearing points in the rear suspension. From what I've read here it looks like the outbound saddle was not bent enough but this alone should have not cracked the welds and it looks like welds didn't pentrate enough to start with. It's also possible that due to poor welding the saddle was originally a nice u-bend but with excess heat from welding over a weld to fix up a bad weld it's also warped the saddle in the process.

I do my aftermarket suspension parts up to mid point of the torque specs and check them after a drive to make sure that when they seat and bed in properly and then nip them up again to make sure. Also a good idea to use loctite on all suspension bolts.

 

ok, send PM now, sorry.

 

definately shit welding....

I didnt buy them but judging by what happened not hot enough on the weld to penetrate properly. being only small welds probably done with a 240V mig but should have been done with an arc welder (more heat)...one tack (proper one, and not with a welder from bunnings !) should hold a fair bit of weight.

a weld that looks good doesnt mean shit, I'm doing welding at work now and have seen plenty of welds that look nice but didnt penetrate and can be pulled apart by hand.

I reckon there will be a few more people with problems.

BB

 

Oh crap....

Now I'm not sure whether to put them on or not!! Could have just been one bad one, but the forces on these things must be at higher speeds!!:unsure:

 

Anyone having this problem??

Can those who have installed these have a look to see if they have cracks!!?

 

Just take them to a boiler maker and get them rewelded

Problem solved

 

Would you do this straight away...

or wait and see whether it going to crack?

 

Just wait for them to fail, might not need to get them fixed after that.