Didn't know that. It either case, I got them for the adjustment mainly, 20 degrees total adjustment. Should help with tuning the powerband.
Got a few new bits in lately. More to add to the parts list: RobZ bored out my OEM TBs out to 54mm. I also went ahead and had him install his delrin spring spacers as well. Time to clean these up now and spray them matte anthracite to go along with my plenum Also order an Ichihara-Johnson crank scraper with the option teflon extension to help with an windage in the pan, and to literally scrape any oil off the sides of the counterweights.
Finally put some time in to install my wpc treated bearings and my specially done up crank. checked all the clearances before assembling everything for the final time. Clearances were all within standard spec! Did the final install with brand new main bolts. Next up: rods and pistons. Everything spins so smooth!
How much did it cost to have those parts coated? I'm sure it will prolong their life & improve efficiency dramatically.
it's actually not a coating, but a surface treatment. The crank alone cost me $350 and for the bearings, it was like $5 per half moon.
not sure what you're laughing about, but here are two demo videos showcasing the benefits of WPC treatment. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSiC7D8patU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvKH-BYQcoM
Not much work. Ran into a bit of a speedbump due to lack of tools. I'll show the current progress though. Installed all the new rod bearings into the rods. Also pressed out the old rod bolts and installed the new OEM rod bolts I bought. It was interesting figuring out a proper way of pressing out and pressing in the new hardware, but I got it all squared away properly. Also cleaned up the inside of the rod surfaces before installing the bearings. I was about to assemble the rod and piston assembly, but I wouldn't be able to install them into the motor, so I decided to wait. As for the speedbump I hit, well, I didn't realize I had to gap my rings. I thought they came ready to go. NOPE. Sweet ring gap, lol. Luckily, I have since been able to source a proper ring file and some feeler gauges to properly gap the rings. That's next on the agenda. At least I don't need to do anything to the oil ring.
I got a lot of work done today. Had to file my own rings to get the proper gap. Yay for proper tools! Checking the gap. Running a gao of 0.156" for the top ring, and 0.019 for the second ring. Clearances were within spec to they get torqued down with lots of lube. Behold the dome! That's what 11.5:1 looks like in a decked blocked. All done! Man those circlips for the wrist pins were a pain to install! Next up! The crank scraper with teflon extension, and my new oil pump and oil pick up/ strainer.
Some small progress. New style oil pump installed as well as a brand new oil pick up tube and strainer. Why not just reuse the old one? Because I like spending money on new oem parts for no reason, lol. Plus, it looks cool all new and clean there to match my new oil pump haha. Also installed the rear main seal retainer. BTW, here are some differences between the old oil pump set up, and the new one. Seems like the pump had been replaced before with a TT pump for some reason? Differences in the oil pick up tube. Old style uses an o-ring, whereas the new style uses a gasket. Also mocked up the crank scraper. Totally forgot to get RTV, so this will do for now. And some comparison shots of clearances with and without the scraper in place. Tolerances should be much much tighter once the teflon extension is added on. It will literally scrape the oil off the crank. And the windage tray.
