Did anyone manage to get the weight of it? I asked several times before hand so I could decide if it was worth buying or just a rip off of the stock pulley. What does it weigh? Has anyone got their one yet? It seems to be a waste of money paying for something that weighs the same and _assuming_ it does a better job than the one Nissan developed. I have to buy a new pulley and don't know what to buy? Is there any others to buy that damper besides this new one and the stock one? P.S for those who have bought ACL race pistons, the clearance they recommend on their website is wrong. The clearance stamped onto the pistons works out to be much smaller than what ACL recommend. My bearings arrived, I just have to decide what I am doing with my clutch and harmonic balancer and then everything can be balanced and the crank can be altered to match the new weight of the crower rods, acl pistons, pins and rings. The machine being used is the latest model straight from Germany, can't wait to see how it all works. Once that is done, then the heads can be put together which shouldn't take to long.
excellent meth, can't wait to see pics of your engine being built... December/January is going to be crazy with so many rebuild posts! So the clearances stamped on the piston is different to what they recommend on their website? is it just a website typo? Oh and did you got 40thou oversized?
I went with 20 thou oversized. I really don't think the gains of going larger are worth weakening the block, as the walls are already thin from what we have just seen in recent posts. The gain wouldn't be noticable and it also allows for that little bit of extra work if you ever need it to be done. Still having hone marks after pulling an engine down has nothing to do with the strength of the block, which is why I didn't bother to cryo treat it because it really isn't needed. The bores can handle wear quite well. I have started to not look at a lot of the cars in the states running 80 thou over etc. They use the car once every 6 months and all have other daily drivers and other race cars when you speak to them. I think that is why they get results, let them take it to the track every month and see how they hold up. I had the piston skirts coated as well, don't bother HPCing the tops because it wears off after a while, I have seen it. I have some pics of some stuff but am now working full time after finishing uni just a few weeks ago and it's keeping me busy as hell atm. I will update my site in a few weeks. I have almost finished dummy fitting the stillen skirts and will buy the rear valance, door fillers, nose panel and front bar from stillen in a few weeks. I have my ice pearl and have chosen a colour for the respray so hopefully I can get that done before the end of Jan.
sounds good we're still waiting to order our forged goodness, along with everything else. I spoke to Chris @ HPC and this is what he had to say when i questioned him about coating the piston crowns... Jury is still out on this one and its an extra $11 per piston to get the crowns done.... what to do... I'm hoping that our parts arrive sooner rather than later, engine bay is stripped of everything now, and it's getting rubbed back in a week or two (i've been saying this for ages but it's about time). Will take a trip down to get some metallic black (i'm not going all out with HOK), might splash a bit of pearl over the top... have to check it out next week.
HPC told me the same thing, yet on several big HP engines, the coating was all flakey. Same with hpcing the manis, even UAS has said that all you need to do is bump the manifold and the coating just flakes off after a while. I would rather go with what I have seen in reality over what someone says who works at HPC or someone who is affiliated with them. The same thing happened to a lot of swain coatings, search on tt.net reveals it.
ive never heard of HPC wearing off the tops of pistons.. and unless you strip down ya motor i guess we will never know cranks dont need mods because pistons are diff weight.. counterweights are there to balance crank itself.. placement of pistons balance them idependantly.. balancing the whole thing as a rotating assembly is just the finishing touch
Everything that goes up and down (pistons,pins,rods) get a static balance, everything that goes round and round (crank,harmonic balancer& flywheel) gets a dynamic balance then it's all put together into the block. Approx $290
