Turbosmart E-Boost 2 safety cut questions

Hey everyone, been troubleshooting some issues with my zed recently, I took the car to a dyno day last Saturday and was disappointed to find it down on power.

I looked at the dyno sheet and realised that boost was spiking to 24 psi on the initial ramp up at about 4,200 rpm and then dropping back to 12 psi.

Now I've been told that without factory safety boost solenoids, the car will not go back down to gate pressure even if the e-boost 2 recognises a level of boost higher than the preset safety cut.

My E-boost 2 has the safety cut set to 22 or 23 psi, as soon as the boost spikes to 24 it drops instantly to 12. I think it's the e-boost doing it's job, but as I said, I've been told this won't happen without the safety boost solenoids in place. I think the E-boost 2 would shut the boost down by itself, it is after all what it's designed to do, but curious as to what you guys think.

It's booked in next Thursday for a tune, so I need to sort something out if the e-boost has shit itself, or if it's normal (which I think it is, since boost is spiking higher than the safety cut off is set).

I also have another drama, the screen on the e-boost itself flickers. I think it might be a bit dodgy, any ideas?

 

It's all good, I haven't driven the car (not much since Saturday) and when I have, I've kept it under 2,500 rpm and off boost.

No boost gauge, only the electronic read out on the e-boost. The boost IS below the boost cut. The boost level is set to 21psi, but the original spike to 24 is normal. It does it in the 340kw run for a split second.

I think that because it's the safety boost shut down has been fiddled with and the boost spikes, it shuts down.

I won't know until next Thursday anyway, I don't want to play around with it while it's pinging and carrying on.

Just asking if you guys think the boost spiking to higher than the safety cut is in fact the reason for it dropping to 12 psi. I'll probably be taking a bleed valve with me to the tuners just in case the boost controller is screwed, can't afford another e-boost at the moment.

 

You shouldn't need the stock safety boost solenoids.
Your eboost's overboost cut is working correctly. if you have it set to 23/24psi it will drop to half of this value (12psi) as you are describing.

What settings are you running on the eBoost and what is your target boost level?
-Set point?
-Gate pressure?
-Sensitivity?

 

Thank you, it's as I suspected.

I haven't fiddled with the e-boost too much, I've only gone through the menu to see where the values are set. I wouldn't set it on the street as I don't have the proper knowledge or equipment to do it safely.

Target boost level is 21psi, which is what the target was when the car made 340, but in every run the boost has always spiked for a short period of time to 24psi. The safety boost shut down is set below that as you know.

The set point, gate pressure and sensitivity are all unknowns to me, I didn't set it up and I've not played with it too much.

Just glad that the boost controller seems to be fine, thanks mate.

Here is a quick video I took of the gauge, see the way it flickers? Could be indicative of it being a bit dodgy?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yr-DftGt1p4

 

Couldn't I just raise the safety boost level? I really don't wanna go any pulls under boost btw, it's lean and mean as you know.

 

no don't raise the safety boost level, it will just allow it to spike higher before it cuts boost (bad). Lower your safety boost level until you get a tune.

Check what the set point, gate pressure and sensitivity are set to, I'm guessing this is the cause of the boost spike. the fact that the overboost function on the eboost can bring the boost back down to 12psi makes me think it's not a mechanical issue that's causing the spike (stuck gates, vac/boost feed to the gates etc).
If you adjust the set point back to 00, gate pressure to 3psi and sensitivity to 20 then the eboost will function as is if it's just come out of the box with no adjustment. It should now run at your wastegate pressure.

The flickering doesn't look right, I'm guessing the unit was used when you bought it? Does the display look ok when the car is stationary? When you're looking through the menus etc does it still flicker? I'd pull it off and check the wiring to it, you could have a dodgy 12v or ground connection.

 

Gp1 gate pressure set too close to target boost level is likely your problem, as I've experienced this while tuning my eboost street, which also triggered the over boost protection. If your target boost level is 21psi then over boost protection set at 22psi is too close, set it to at least 23psi and gate pressure to 16psi.

Gate pressure being too high will cause your boost spike which then triggers your boost protection since it's so close to the desired boost level which then cuts you back to 12psi.

Gate pressure needs to be about 5psi below your desired boost psi, over boost needs to be at least 2-3 psi above desired as it's only there for protection and not for normal boost cutting.

 

No it shouldn't 16psi according to the manual, 5psi below target boost. I run 12.5 psi and set mine to 7psi. Spiking boost is an indication that it's closer than 5psi. It may need to be slightly less, but 9psi seems low.

Source. http://www.turbosmart.com.au/news/e-boost2-quick-start-guide