Anything wierd about them? Other than the obvious funny shape to fit the locking pin through I mean. For some reason I can't for the life of me get them to go back onto the tie rod ends, almost seems like they are the wrong thread or something. Clarly not that simple as I took them off so they must go back on somehow???
They should just go on like normal nuts. You haven't got the lower control arm to hub nuts mixed up with the tie rod ends to hub nuts?
Nup, control arms have not been taken off. The top of each of the studs on the tie rod ends look like they have been hit with a punch of something, would anyone do this to flare the top out to stop the nuts working off if they didn't trust the locking pins? Seems odd. Anyway, might just try cleaning up the tip of the studs with a file to help the nuts go on easier, that worked a treat with the EGR pipe bolts under the plenum. Thanks.
Ohhhh, ok. They probably bashed them with a hammer to get them out at some stage. It distorts the thread and you probably won't be able to get them on. If you are lucky you might be able to clean the threads up with a die.
Bugger, I assume I can't just replace the stud either, I'd need to get new ends? I took them off myself this time and didn't bash anything too hard (used a bit of pine and hit that with a hammer rather than hitting the stud directly) but the nut was kind of funny to get off so they mat have been bashed off previously. If that's teh case would it just be the top few threads that are damaged? If so would I be able to file down the top few threads so it can slide past them and bite into the good thread further down?
You can try to fix the thread, but mine were too far gone to save. Had to buy new ones. I'm not sure if you can replace any part of it, I never tried. I'm going to buy a ball joint separator next time I need to do it, much cheaper than new tie rods every time!!
Damn, I guess there is nothing to be lost in trying. You should move down here so i can borrow your tools and such. My old W&B torque wrench is at Total Tools to get calibrated too.
Are you talking about the actual "Tie-rod Ball-joint thread" or the straight threaded rod(with lock-nuts)? The double ended rod may have a "right-hand" thread on one end and a "left-hand" thread on the other(so as to facilitate adjustment in situ). The lock-nuts will only fit the matching ends. If you mean the tapered ball end thread(with the split-pin hole), some donkey has probably whacked it with a hammer when trying to get it to "release" from the steering arm. they will often "collapse"(due to weakness caused by the hole). If so, try running a thread die over the end couple of threads.
How the hell did you get them out? You didnt bash them from the top with the nut screwed back on did you? (or even without the nut screwed back on?? ) The right way is a ball joint separator OR you put a heavy hammer on one side of the tapered casting on the hub and hit it from the other side and the ball joint will spring out of the taper. YOU NEVER HIT A BALL JOINT FROM THE TOP TO GET IT OUT CAUSE YOU SCREW IT UP JUST LIKE YOU HAVE. Do stuff like this again Blacky and I will send round the tool police to confiscate all your tools.
Or if you wanted to do something productive you could confiscate someone else's tools and give me the ball joint seperator. I put a bit of pine on it and gently tapped it out with a small hammer, seemed liek a good idea at the time.
