Solved the issues i had last week (it was just a PCV hose which had come off), but after installing my new BOV's, I'm having a slight stutter while idling and while reving. Hard to explain and i'm not even sure if "stuttering" would be the right word, so i uploaded a vid i took on my phone : http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v213/rishwin/?action=view¤t=08102010001.mp4 Now my recirc valves had previously been removed and blocked off, so all i did was remove the caps which were blocking them, and stuck the BOV's in the pipes. Then got some extra vacuum hose and ran it all the way through to the nose panel to connect to the BOV's. AFAIK i've done everything right, and i did a proper search both yesterday and today, and can't find any loose hoses or anything disconnected. Help!
have you reset the ecu and let it go though the self-learn procedure......you will have changed the afr in the engine at different rpm's, may just need to re-learn whats going on.....
Have you adjusted the BOVs? You need to tune them so they are only open under sudden closed throttle and not at idle. If they're open at idle you'll be sucking in unmetered air and it'll act like a vacuum leak.
Nope, haven't touched the ECU. Should i? What exactly do i have to do? I figured not much would have changed since i was just replacing my old BOV's which were in the engine bay attached to hard intake pipes, with these new ones which are just in a differet location (stock recirc valve position). BTW just confirming that these hoses are correctly placed, was simply copying exactly how the previous vacuum lines were: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/rishwin/08102010035.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/rishwin/08102010036.jpg The red lines are the new hoses i bought, and each of them go to the vacuum nipple on the BOV for that side. I was just reading a few posts and some are saying that they should only be going to one hose on the passengers side instead of both sides? //Edit: Haven't adjusted the BOV's yet, however i placed my hand over than and they aren't sucking in any air as far as i can feel. Worth playing with them anyway?
if the only thing you've played with are the BOV's, then it's vacuum/boost hose related surely. A boost leak test will reveal i'd say.
Prof BOV's i bought from Mafia-zed. I didn't bother playing around with the BOV adjustment because i figgured he would already have set them. //Edit: Did an ECU diagnostic and I'm getting an error code 12 (i think) for Air flow circuit... the AFM is properly plugged in, what could the problem be?
thats not stuttering thats small back fires. your bovs may be leaking, or need tightening. as for reseting the ecu that wont do anything. you need a boost leak test. if there old bovs they may be stuck open . id be looking for a significant boost leak
Will tighten and if that doesn't help i'll just remove them. Need the Zed for work in 3 hours so don't have time to get a leak test atm. Also, cleaned the AFM connectors and idle seemed to improve, though still backfiring when accelerating. Will the error code clear itself once it's been fixed, or will i have to do an ECU reset?
Boooo no consult/datascan, so codes can't be erased... is it true that they will be removed after starting the car 25 times though? I'm not going to do it, but at least they'll disappear within a week or two. Chris came over and helped me fix it (with the help of Kev's spare AFM), AFM plug just needed a little help to make propper contact... me removing it several times over the last 2 days made them a little loose.
Correct me if im wrong but im pretty sure you can reset the ecu by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery for 30 mins
Disconnected it for like a minute or so, but not for30 mins... plus won't i need to re-config my headunit ect?
