If you have lots of patience - you can do it with a vacuum cleaner and a very fine screwdriver or similar - just loosen the crap in the fins and vacuum away....not as easy as a compressor, but will do the same job. It made a huge difference to mine!
Mwhahaha I got a brand new OEM TT clutch on ebay for a AUD 120 delivered. Its so new it sparkles. I wasnt of the opinion that my old one was cactus but Im still going to use the new one.
jschrauwen Are you purging the system of air when you drain/flush/fill? I dropped the bottom hose and let everything drain out Are you using soft water when flushing? Just water from the tap Are you selecting the heater control switch to on and selecting the highest heat setting when topping up with coolant? No, thanks for the tip I will redo it today and try. Are you filling the reservoir at the same time to "FULL" mark? No, damn I sucked @ this radiator flush Even though it appears the fan clutch may be serviceable, I would opt for a replacement on spec. The symptoms described appear to point to it. I will be doing a compression check today, if that comes back positive a new fan clutch shall be ordered. Check relay for condensor fan. Check coolant temp sensor (ECU) as well It's the yellow connector one. Will do, thanks for the advice. My mate has a compressor and is coming around today to help me do some checks.
Here's another test you could also try for the HVAC - http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/...=0&cycle=off&slide=13&design=default&total=33 I would also try to remove all traces of tap water before the final fill. It's preferable to use non mineralized water to add to the antifreeze. Although I think these days most people opt to purchase the premixed version which seems to be more prevalent now in auto stores. A watered down vwersion (pun intended) of the filling process. http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/...=0&cycle=off&slide=14&design=default&total=33
Mate came around today and we removed the thermostat, it was ****ed. New one is in but Im currently trying to find why the hardpipes are leaking after reconnecting them. Work will resume tomorrow.
Mate you have to leave the sealant to set for at least 12-24 hours. At least that's what I've been told / seen.
Use the RTV sealant regardless and let it sit for 24hrs. Gasket alone is not enough. Hope you used an oem thermostat or even a Nismo one. http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=288278
Generic thermostat from Repco. We did use a gasket with just a tiny wipe of silicon to hold the gasket in place. I think the gasket got ripped / crimped when putting in. Im redoing it this morning with gasket goo.
bigger cooling affect with engine oil cooler Just as a matter of comment I found that the biggest affect on temperate was not the type of radiator but rather adding a decent engine oil cooler, it knocked 10 degrees out of the top end temps.
Hope that generic one works for you. Hate to see you have to go through the whole process a 3rd time. Excellent point. I've covered both bases with an AMS rad and a Z1 oil cooler. My routine coolant temps while at speed is usually around 160*F to 162*F. That's using a Nismo thermostat as well.
Well the leak is sorted (torn gasket), filled her up and while it did not overheat idling with the aircon on full blast for 30-40min there is a constant bubble coming from the radiator and the water is not dropping as air bubbles come up. Im going to buy a TK tester to check for exhaust fumes but it looks like a blown head gasket.
Sorry to hear. There's not much forgiveness if you sit at the H range for any period of time. Your mew coolant isn't changing colour due to it mixing with oil, is it? Any milky residue on the underside of the oil filler cap?
Well I just noticed something thats amiss, the overflow bottle does not hold water. The water runs straight out the bottom when I fill it up. Is that by design ? I thought it would come out the top of the bottle.
there is an overflow for the overflow bottle so that it doesn't put coolant into your engine bay as it heats up and flows into the bottle. you are only supposed to fill the overflow according to the level on the dispstick.
Code: Driver | Passenger ------------------ 120 | 90 110 | 90 130 | 150 ------------------ FRONT OF CAR The result of my compression test (cold). Does not look good for the 2 back passenger side pistons. Im going to put some oil in th cylinders and retry but either way it looks like Im up for a very expensive fix
