Fellow Zedders, I bought Z32 TT couple months ago. It was ACT registered car and after spending time and money, it got registered in NSW...thought hard part was behind me but I was wrong.... I drove it few times and seemed ok. Car was parked in garage for a week and didnt start and i had a feeling the alarm and kill switch was playing up. Called electrician/alarm guy out and based on his suggestion, put a new alarm in and removed/disabled old alarm and kill switch. Apparently there were 3 alarms in the car. This guy also had to bypass factory fitted some secuirty sytem as I tried to open the car with door key right side, which didnt work as it was free so opened from passenger side. The guy told me due to this the factory fitted secuirty has kicked in. I will have to either replace something in the right door or just bypass this secuirty. Drove it few times (very short distance). After being parked for few days, it didnt start so this guy was back and replaced corroded battery terminals and I also put in new battery (optima red top). Started the car few times during the week just to make sure battery doesnt die. Now the painful part.....took it to gas station less than a km away and while returning as I was exiting the gas station, car stalled. After couple of times, it started (it winds up) and reached home. I went to start it after 2 days and it started in one go. Left it running for 10 mins. Again after 2 days i started and reversed out of the drive way and it stalled. This time it took me like 10 go but it started and I drove it back into my drive way. I tried to start it 2 days later (this sat morning) but it didnt start. It winds up but didnt fire up. I called this electricain again who visited today morning and guess what....it started in one go. He said there could be some intermittent issue but he doesnt know. What do you guys think could be wrong with the car? Even if it starts, I dont feel safe driving it as it could stall again and that scares the s*** out of me just thinking of it. This electrician did say and I was aware the previous owner(s) have mucked around with wiring. I am lost
It could be a number of things, you need to find out when it is not starting if it has fuel and spark, or take it to someone who knows what they are doing, I had similar problem it was the fuel pressure control unit stopping the pump, just out of the blue after turning it off it would not restart. From the day I bought the car the fuel pump was very loud so I thought it to be normal, could hear it with the radio on, now I cant hear it running
Need to find out whether it is fuel or spark. Ok. As usual simple things first. It cranks over but does not fire up. So two possible causes. You need to wait for the car not to start and then do these diagnostics. You need to have these tools with you when you drive the car. Sparkplug removal tools. Test light. (A screwdriver like tool with a single wire and a crocodile clip on the end of the wire) When the car stops 1. Pull one spark plug out and check for a spark. (if no spark do the tests for "No Spark" in the Service manual to trace the cause. ) 2. If the there is a spark then there is no fuel getting to the engine. Make sure there is fuel in the tank first by shaking the car while listening for the petrol sloshing in the tank. Remove one of the injector connectors and use the test light to see if one of the connector wires light the test lamp. (I am assuming you know how these test lights work. If not i will will describe for you later.) If you get the lamp to light (it should light even if the ignition is switched off) from one of the connections then do the next test. If you cannot get the tester to light then check for the 12v Injector supply wire as there should be 12volts continuously on one of the injector connections. If all the above tests are fine then you need to check if the ECU or CAS are the cause. ********* WARNING******** Unless you understand the following do not attempt it as you are connected to the ECU. Clip one end of the tester to the positive terminal of the battery. Gently try to connect the other end of the tester to the connector wire that does not have the 12V on it. While this setup is connected crank the engine and see if the light flashes on and off. If this and all the above happen the car should start. If this test does not flash the test light then the fault is the ECU wiring, the CAS wiring or the ECU or the CAS. Took me 3 months to diagnose a diesel Gemini in this way. But when I went to test the car wold start until one time I tracked it down to a dodgy connector. Good luck.
Forgot the fuel pump. Forgot to check the pump as mentioned. When the car refuses to fire up when turning the key from OFF to ON listen for a whirring noise from the fuel tank area. It should start the pump for a few seconds then go quiet. If you cannot hear the pump going then check the fuel pump circuitry and wiring. MichaelZ
is your p.t.u the old or new type ?. If it's the old style just replace it to be sure. Also check all the connectors under the bonnet for corrosion/condition. Especially the c.a.s , p.t.u , coils and injector ones. Cheers Dave
This might sound weird, but also check your coolant level. If it is low the car will crank but not start. Also check the connectors on the coolant sensors on the upper water pipe.
hi...i have found a guy at my work place who has ECU reader and we are doing it tonight. lets see how that goes.
Unfortunately....... .......the only way you'll determine what the problem is with any certainty, is to diagnose it while the fault exists.
Eastcoast is right. The ECU reader may be a waste of time. As i wrote and Eastcoast reiterated diagnostics need to be done when the fault condition exists. Also some faults are not picked up by the ECU. MichaelZ
