Finally fitted the 300kph speedo face yesterday and while attempting to get the needle out, it pulled out all the way still attached to the shaft. After many attempts at getting as free as it originally was by setting it at different depths, I eventually gave up and although it's reading accurately it's pretty sluggish. Thankfully my turbo timer has a speed setting I can use until I can replace the speedo. Last week I fitted new pillar mount water temp and boost gauges. As some of you may realise, if you take the power to light gauges from the rear of the rheostat, the dimmer on them will work in reverse. I saw another post which suggested picking up power for them from the rear of the speedo. While fitting the 300kph face yesterday I took a close look at the mylar circuit on the back of the cluster and noticed a ribbon with "ILL +" on it and thought I had hit jackpot. I followed the ribbon and picked up power from the wire that supplied it and now my gauges don't dim at all. Back to the rheostat, where I can at least use a compromise between the brightness of the dash and the after market gauges. Have any of you solved the puzzle on fitting after market gauges and getting the dimmer to work properly? Cheers, Dave
So the ground from the rear cluster goes to the ground on the rear of the gauges? I had the ground running from the gauges to an earth and the power from the positive on the rear of the cluster..... This was obviously wrong
I just remembered that was the first thing I tried. In line with one of the tech articles I read. It even said which two wires to use but I still found the gauges were dimming in reverse. Which wires do I connect to? Thanks in advance Dave
I know it's the silly season and a lot of you are pretty busy but is there anyone with an answer to this? Trying to get all I can done to the zed before my holidays end. Cheers, Dave
