Something I didn't think about......

Discussion in 'Technical' started by sbe, Dec 3, 2010.

  1. MagicMike

    MagicMike Moderator Staff Member

    Most decent aftermarket wheels will have a 73.1mm hub, this is so they can fit most makes/models hub. Just need the hubcentric rings to suit.

    There are many causes of vibrations in zeds, not just a lack of hubcentric rings.

    Tailshaft for example.
     
  2. MrTwinTurbo

    MrTwinTurbo Account Disabled

    They talked about straight z/ford swaps with nothing in between

    I guess you could do that if you really liked:eek:
    I'd bypass that myself:p

    Yep unbalanced /damaged wheels - any where in the drive really:cool:

    But the guys here were talking about generically going from Ford to Z and Z to Ford complaining wheel shudder and not mentioning any of these parts - that means its most likely incorrect sized center bores:eek:
    and there are other differences that can be transferring from ford/z such as offest and lug size compounding the bore size problem even worse:eek:

    cheers - stick with your ford rims on the Z:rofl:
     
  3. MrTwinTurbo

    MrTwinTurbo Account Disabled

    All the wheel mag bore/hub/offsets that suit a z31 - z32 - z33

    FOR INFO - FOR ALL NEEDING TO KNOW
    CHEERS -mrtwinturbo:zlove:

    Stock TT rims' offset is 45 front and 35 rear
    300ZX Z32 TT
    Z32 Turbo Alloy Wheels

    Wheel size:
    16×7.5 with a 45mm offset ? Front
    16×8.5 with a 35mm offset ? Rear
    66.06mm hub bore
    Bolt patten:
    5×114.3 (72-87 ft/lb or 105-118nm)
    Stud size:
    12mm x 1.25
    Original front tyre size: 225/50-16
    Original rear tyre size: 245/45-16
    245/45/16 = 245/40/17 = 245/35/18
    225/50/16 = 225/45/17=225/40/18
    1992 Z32 Twisty Alloy Wheels (Turbo) (1991)
    16x7.5 with a 45mm offset - Front
    16x8.5 with a 35mm offset - Rear
    Here are some wheel offsets that might work
    Front width Standard offset +10mm +15mm
    7.5″ (190.5mm) 45.0mm
    8.5″ (215.9mm) 32.3mm 42.3mm 57.3mm
    9.0″ (228.6mm) 25.95mm 35.95mm 50.95mm
    Rear width Standard offset +10mm +15mm
    8.5″ (215.9mm) 35mm
    9.5″ (241.3mm) 22.3mm 32.3mm 37.3mm
    10.0″ (254.0mm) 15.95mm 25.95mm 30.95mm

    stock offset is 40mm on S13/S14*

    stock specifications
    BOLT PATTERNS (Torque spec).
    4-lug: 4x114.3 (72-87 ft/lb)
    5-lug: 5x114.3 (72-87 ft/lb)
    THREAD SIZE: 12mmx1.25

    1991 S13 7 Spoke Alloy Wheels (SE Model ones)
    15x6 with a 40mm offset

    1996 S14 5 Spoke Alloy Wheels (SE Model ones)
    16x6.5 with a 40mm offset

    1992 Z32 Twisty Alloy Wheels (Non Turbo) (1991)
    16x7.5 with a 45mm offset

    1992 Z32 Twisty Alloy Wheels (Turbo) (1991)
    16x7.5 with a 45mm offset - Front
    16x8.5 with a 35mm offset - Rear

    Z33 Six spoke 'Track' Wheels
    18x8 with a 30mm offset - Front
    18x8.5 with a 33mm offset - Rear

    Z33 NISMO LM GT4 wheels
    18x8.5 with a 25mm offset - Front
    18x9.5 with a 25mm offset - Rear

    Wheel Specs from other cars that may fit a Nissan
    Courtesy of(the man!) SmithSR

    Other Nissan Car Specs

    Vehicle model('M' = Medium Offset)... model years.. wheel sizes..bolt pattern.. hub bore

    NX2000/ Pulsar/ Sentra........'88-00... 13/14".. 4-100 59.20mm
    Sentra/ Pulsar FWD..............'83-87....13" ........4-4.5... 66.06
    200sx(M)...............................'77-85....13/14"...4-4.5... 66.06
    200sx FWD...........................'94-01....13/14"....4-100...59.20
    240sx/200sx FWD.................'85-97.....15"....... 4-4.5....66.06
    240sx/200sx .......................'88-98.....15/16"... 5-45.....66.06
    B210/510/610/710RWD(M). '68-83.....13"........ 4-4.5....66.06
    240z/260z/280z/ZX RWD(M).'70-85....14/15"... 4-4.5....66.06
    280zx/300zx(M)....................'86-89.....15/16"....5-4.5...66.06
    300zx Turbo(M)....................'90-96.....16"..........5-4.5...66.06
    300ZX non Turbo(M)..............'90-96.....16"........5-.45...66.06
    310 FWD/ F10/ Stanza.........'79-89.....13/14"....4-4.5....66.06
    350z(M)................................'03-.........17/18"....5-4.5....66.06
    810/Maxima(M)....................'79-84......14"........ 4-4.5....66.06
    1600/1800 RWD(M)..............'66-70.....14".........4-4.5....66.06
    Altima................................'91-01.....14/15"...... 4-4.5....66.06
    Altima.................................'03- .........15/16".....5-4.5....66.06
    Maxima.............................. '85-88......14/15"......4-4.5...66.06
    Maxima...............................'89-03......15/16".... 5-4.5... 66.06
    Sentra................................'01-03......14-"..........4-4.5...66.06
    Stanza................................'90-..........13/14".....4-4.5....66.06

    Infiniti vehicles:
    G20 .....................................'91-................14/15".....4-4.5... 66.06
    I30/I35 ................................'95-................15"..........5-4.5....66.06
    J30 .......................................'93-................15"..........5-4.5....66.06
    M30 .......................................'90-...............15"......... 4-4.5....66.06
    Q45........................................'90-03.........15/16/17"..5-4.5....66.06
    M45 .......................................'03.................18".........5-4.5....66.06
    G35........................................ '03................17/18"... 5-4.5... 66.06

    Other Manufacturer's specs usefull for Nissan's
    No Acura(even though the bolt pattern matches on many)

    No Alfa Romeo

    Amc uses a 5-4.5 RWD on it's '57-87 Ambassador, AMX, Concord, Gremlin, Hornet, Javelin, Marlin, Pacer, Rambler, Rebel, and Spirit. The AMC Eagle and Spirit 4WD from '75-89 use a 15" 5-4.5

    No Audi

    No BMW

    No Buick

    No Caddy

    Chevy NovaII from '62-67 uses 13/14" 4-4.5 70.30hub bore
    Corvair 4 lug (but not 5 lug) from '60-64 uses 13" 4-4.5 70.30 hub bore
    Chevy Sprint from '88-89 uses 12/13" 4-4.5, 59.61hub bore
    Older models not included

    Other than that, no Chevrolet uses the 4 or 5-4.5 bolt pattern

    Chysler:
    300M....'97-03....16/17"......5-4.5.....71.50hub bore
    Concorde/LHS/New Yorker FWD...'93-.....15/16"....5-4.5....71.50
    Conquest RWD...'84-85....14/15".......4-4.5.....67.06
    Conquest RWD...'86-94.....15/16"......5-4.5.....67.06
    Laser..................'89-........14/15/16"...5-4.5.....67.06
    Sebring(excl. convertible)....'95-....14/15/16"....5-4.5.....67.06
    Older models not included

    No Daihatsu

    Daewoo Leganza...'98-....15"........5-4.5.......56.60

    Dodge:
    Avenger(excl. convertible)....'95-....14/15/16"....5-4.5....67.06
    Daytona(laser)......'89-.........14/15/16".......5-4.5.....67.06
    Intrepid.................'93-.........15/16".............5-4.5.....71.50
    Stealth FWD..........'91-..........15/16"............5-4.5......67.06
    Stealth R/T AWD Turbo....'91- .....17".....5-4.5.....67.06
    older models not included

    Eagle Summit FWD....'89-91....13/14"....4-4.5......67.06
    Talon FWD/AWD........'90-......14/15/16"....5-4.5....67.06
    TSIFWD/Vision...........'93-......15/16".........5-4.5.....67.06

    No Ferrari

    No Fiat

    Ford:
    Crown Vic/LTD RWD.....'90-03...15/16"....5-4.5......70.50
    Crown Vic.....'03.........16"..........5-4.5....................70.50
    Mustang........'92-03......15-18"...5-4.5...................70.50
    Probe............'88-92......14-16".....5-4.5..................59.61
    Probe............'93-01......14-16".....5-4.5..................67.06
    older models not included

    Geo metro from '88-01 used 4-4.5 but with 59.61 hub bore

    No Honda(although bolt patterns do match)

    Hyundai:
    Accent.................'95-99..........13"..........4-4.5.........67.06
    Elantra/Sonata....'89-..............14/15"....4-4.5.........67.06
    Excel/GLS/Scoupe...'86-...........13/14"....4-4.5.........67.06
    Tiburon.................'97-03..........14".........4-4.5.........67.06
    Tiburon.................'03................15"........5-4.5.........67.06

    No Isuzu

    No Jaguar

    Kia Optima.........'01-03.......14/15"......4-4.5......67.06

    Lexus uses too small a hub bore. 60.06.

    Lincoln:
    Town Car.....'80-94..............15"......5-4.5.......70.50
    Town Car.....'95-03..............15/16"...5-4.5......70.50
    older models not included

    MG: MGA/MGB.....'63-81.......15"......4-4.5......?hub bore

    Mazda: many of these hub bores are too small. be advised.
    Mazda "6".....'03......16/17"......5-4.5.....hub bore:59.61
    rx-8..............'03.......18"..........5-4.5......59.61
    323/GLC.......'82-89...13/14".....4-4.5.....59.61
    626fwd.........'84-87....14/15"....4-4.5......59.61
    626/MX6.......'88-92.....14/15".....5-4.5....59.61
    MP3/Protege...'01-03...16/17".....5-4.5....59.61
    626/MX6fwd.....'93-.......14-16"....5-4.5.....67.06
    929..................'87-........15/16"....5-4.5.....67.06
    Millenia.............'95-........15/16"....5-4.5.....67.06
    rx7 GSL/GTV......'86-92....15/16'....5-4.5.....67.06
    rx7 GSL/GTV Turbo...'86-92..15/16"...5-4.5....67.06
    rx7 turbo...........'93-........16/17".......5-4.5......67.06(Medium offset)

    No Mercedes

    Mercury:
    All models from..........'48-54.......15"..........5-4.5.......?hub bore
    Gran Marquis.....'89-03.......15/16"............5-4.5.......70.50
    Marauder...........'03.............17/18"...........5-4.5.......70.50
    older models and models with smaller hub bore not included

    No Merkur

    Mitsubishi:
    3000GT FWD........................'91-01......15/16".......5-4.5......67.06
    3000GT Spyder FWd/AWD...'92-01.......15/16".......5-4.5......67.06
    3000GT VR-4 AWD...............'92-01........17/18".......5-4.5......67.06
    Galant/mirage/Tredia FWD...'83-92.......13/14".......4-4.5......67.06
    Diamante..............................'91-03.......15"............5-4.5......67.06
    Eclipse FWD/AWD.................'89-03....14/15/16".....5-4.5......67.06
    Galant..................................'92-97......14/15".........4-4.5......67.06
    Galant..................................'98-03.......15"..............5-4.5......67.06
    Lancer OZ.............................'01-03.......15".............4-4.5.......67.06
    Starion RWD.........................'84-86.......14/15".........4-4.5......67.06
    Starion RWD.........................'87-93........15/16"........5-4.5......67.06

    No modern Oldsmobile....get it?

    No Opel

    No Peugeot

    Plymouth:
    Laser...........'89-........14/15/16"........5-4.5........67.06
    Prowler.......'97-.............18"F/20"R......5-4.5........?hub bore
    modern listings only. Older(pre-'80) not included

    No Pontiac

    No Porsche

    Saab:
    99/900........'72-86......15"........4-4.5.....?hub bore

    No Saturn

    Sterling:
    825/827/SL........'86-91......15"......4-4.5....?hub bore

    Subaru SVX....'91-......16".......5-4.5......56.16

    Suzuki uses 60.06 hub bore. While the models Aero and Swift use a 4-4.5 blot pattern, the hub bore is too small to fit the 66.06 Nissan hub. No fit.

    Toyota:
    most all toyota cars use smaller hub bore than Nissan, hence the wheels no fit! Several cars such as the '75-85 Celica GT RWD use 4-4.5 bolt pattern with a 60.06 hub bore. No fit. Avalon uses 5-4.5 with the same 60.06 hub bore. Again, good bolt pattern, bad hub bore. Others:
    Cressida, Corolla RWD, All Supra incl. Turbo use 60.06 hub bore. Every modern Toyota uses 60.06 or even smaller 54.06 hub bore. None will fit the 66.06 Nissan hub.

    No VW

    No Volvo (65.07 and 67.07hub bore, but the 67.07 hub bore wheels are the wrong bolt pattern)

    HOPE THIS HELPS
    click thanks if you think it does!:zlove:
     
  4. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    You really think the polycarb ring is there to support the weight of the car instead of the studs? :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:


    The ring is only there to ensure the wheel is held central to the hub while the nuts are being torqued ;)


    The studs can and do hold the weight of the car just fine - plenty of vehicles are made with no spigot for the wheels to rest on.
    Do you realise how much tension & shear force each one of those studs can take by design? It's a hell of a lot more than you think obviously ;)

    With self centring nuts the wheel should naturally find the centre as the nuts are tightened in any case but just to help things along hub rings are made and are available.
     
  5. Chrispy

    Chrispy Pretentious Upstart

    That's american OEM turbo wheels only.

    Aus and Jap got two sets 'front' wheels.
     
  6. AndyMac

    AndyMac Better than you

    Yes you can.

    Fitting a wheel to a hub with a smaller center ring (ie ford onto nissan) requires a hub locator ring, as pictured above.

    Fitting a wheel to a hub with a larger center ring (ie nissan onto ford) requires a bolt on spacer with the correct locating ring sizes on both sides, which is easily got, but will set you back about $150 and will push your offset down by 15mm minimum.

    However, aftermarket wheels to suit nissan have such a massive market share, just find some that fit.
     
  7. MrTwinTurbo

    MrTwinTurbo Account Disabled

    what polycarbonate ring?:confused::confused:

    Steel Axle Hub Lip is what I'm talking about:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

    and yes that pissy little hub bore lip holds the vertical weight of the vehicle if its flush and a correct fit, its actually the studs that guide, support and hold the mag against the flat hub face - you seem reversed?:confused:
    Think about why they would be made of high tensile steel and why they snap if it goes wrong
    Look at the video of the red wheeless car - they snapped mate they didnt bend one by one and the incorrect bore centre to lip was why
    The studs can handle lots of force sure but going around corners with 1600kg pushing down at 200kmh and hitting the brakes and a gutter is a whole lot more force than just sitting still on the studs or going for a short slow drive.

    Name a manufactured car with no spigot on the oem wheel? :eek:

    As for centre hubs pulling them to the centre thats fine but thinking its ok to not need to suit the lip with the bore is crazy???:confused:

    Q. were you driving the car in the video?:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
    You one Crazy dude!:eek::rofl::rofl:
     
  8. MrTwinTurbo

    MrTwinTurbo Account Disabled

    Cheers

    Yeh the list needs fixing/ double checking/ input and any clarifications from all people

    cheers
     
  9. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    In the pictures provided it clearly shows a black polycarbonate hubcentric spacers & these are the most common type.

    Each stud has enough strength to virtually support the full weight of the car hanging from it, a pissy little polcarb ring would simply crush instantly if actually exposed to the weight of the car.

    If you have to ask "Name a manufactured car with no spigot on the oem wheel? " then it shows a lack of industry knowledge, it doesn't take much of a look around to find dozens of examples. HINT: some of them are dealing with loads much much higher than what we are talking about here.

    Like I said the rings are a tool to help align the wheel when fitting it, once the nuts are tight the ring does NOTHING.

    Yeah sure that was my car alright - gee I wish i never followed your advise :p

    "you seem reversed?" hmmm yeah what would I know about this sort of thing....
    Can I ask your profession or quals?
     
  10. MrTwinTurbo

    MrTwinTurbo Account Disabled

    :confused::confused:
    polycarbonate plastic?
    oh your looking at the other pic - lol

    i'm talking abouit the link pic dude:rofl:

    yeh - the studs will support the weight - no argument there unless under high forces - then i disagree:cool:
    shear factor is why there high tensile dude and not mild steel and why they snap not bend!:p

    Believe what you want - cheers:rofl:

    i guess your the pro dude you would know[TIS]
    Cheers
     
  11. MrTwinTurbo

    MrTwinTurbo Account Disabled

    you the pro so teach me this

    I wonder why they have fine tolerance figures like 60.06 / 70.50 / 67.06 / 59.61 etc if it doesnt matter if they fit? They are very fine engineering tolerances for a reason - tight solid fit. Doesnt make sense to have such fine engineering tolerances if it dont need to fit dude - thats simple engineering!

    but since the your the pro you can now teach me why they have fine tolerance figures like 60.06 / 70.50 / 67.06 / 59.61 etc if it doesnt matter if they fit?:rofl::rofl:

    like I said - you one scary dude :eek:
     
  12. Benny_C

    Benny_C About as subtle as...

    You are completely wrong. I hope no people listen to you when reading your posts.
    It's called a hubcentric locator ring or Spigot Ring. Don't ever call it a spacer again. You are stupid for calling it any form of spacer.
    MrTwinTurbo. you should stop giving advice. You are wrong most of the time. :rofl:
    Also, listen to Mungyz. He is correct in everything he has said.

    I can't believe you just asked that. :rolleyes:

    Yes he is. Being a smartass makes you look even stupider. lol.

    LMFAO @ ^^^

    MrTwinTurbo =
    [​IMG]
     
  13. MrTwinTurbo

    MrTwinTurbo Account Disabled

    Dude your talking about the other photo - wrong one!

    Your talking about wrong photo dude - you mixed up yourself!
    I give up on this post dude - not talking foobar with you all
    sit on your bad fitting rims:rofl:
    better things to do than guide you to the other photo i was talking about in the first place or listen to your condescending statements:eek:
    - good luck with your rims:rofl:
     
  14. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    There has to be a small amount of clearance in the fit otherwise the wheel will seize to the hub - a problem you will have encountered if you have dealt with high magnesium content wheels.
    This issue is with two metals being in contact with other is you end up with dissimilar metal corrosion. If the hub spigot were 60mm OD and the wheel centre 60mm ID the wheel may go on when new but then effectively "weld" itself to the hub over time.

    This is why you have numbers like 60.06mm, you need .06mm clearance between the wheel and the spigot.

    Oh wait.....


    Shit that just completely blows your whole theory to pieces :eek:



    So so sorry about that :eek:


    :p
     
  15. s_t_r_e_t_c_h

    s_t_r_e_t_c_h flammin zed!!

    Mate,

    May I suggest you stop and look who your talking too.

    Your trying to correct Benny_c.. Firstly here's a photo of his car..
    [​IMG]
    He knows alot about wheels. He has some of the best fit wheels on this forum. See his thread about fitting wheels to a car..
    http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297230

    You need to stop, sit back and take note of what's happening on the forum. Your a ex inf SGT? do you always jump in and try and run the show? thought that was the jube LT's job. Yes I'm army too. If you've been based in TSV you'll know me no doubt. Which regiment were you at?

    You have 123 posts since you joined at the end of last month. Please slow down and stop double posting.
     
  16. MrTwinTurbo

    MrTwinTurbo Account Disabled

    same size hub lip and same size hole wouldnt fit dude!

    well if it was the same size it wouldnt fit at all !!!!

    even .1 would be too tight to get it on!!!

    what point can you get it on without it seizing

    about 0.6mm!!!!!! no less when you really think about it hard!

    Oops - but that would blow your new theory out by commonsense logic

    So sorry about that:rofl::rofl:

    Dude what next you gonna say?:eek:

    ok - you win :confused:- im not gonna waste time in a futile debate with you
    its clear you'll never believe me :confused: your the pro:eek:

    stick with your z rims on ya ford or vice versa - i dont care if yours fall off!:rofl:
     
  17. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    Someone with a quarter of my knowledge on this subject could out gun you buddy.

    You have made an ass of yourself now it's time to go do some reading & pay attention
    Go and google the terms interference fit, press fit & clearance fit and post up what you find here.

    WE will correct you when you go wrong.

    You wanted to be taught so it starts here and now, let us know how you get on.

    Oh by the way you forgot to let us know your qualifications on the subject?
     
  18. Polish

    Polish New Member

    What the hell are you saying. Also, is this a new account? your style reminds me of someone else.

    EDIT: been googling and some sites say one thing and others say something else.
     
  19. mungyz

    mungyz Well-Known Member

    MrTwinTurbo is clearly not as cleaver as he would like to think.

    He has agreed with me that there needs to be clearance for the wheel to come on and off the hub as required.

    BUT if there is clearance between the hub spigot and the wheel how can the hub spigot possibly be carrying ANY of the load? And he is the one saying common sense has ruined my theory??? (not my theory in any case it is common knowledge).

    If only enthusiasm translated directly to knowledge.....
     
  20. Sanouske

    Sanouske Retired Moderator

    Sooo. Umm.

    I just want to mention that mazda that did a belly flop. Very funny to watch. However very lucky it was at a track.

    That is all.
     

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