As someone who is still going to have a crack at running a 10.5:1 TT I would agree with the majority of what Tas said although I think the obsession with detonation issues when talking about these builds assumes either a poorly kept cooling system or going for a max-power tune and as much boost as possible; with a clean coolant system and a decent oil cooler your engine isn't going to be too much closer to failure than a TT putting out the same 200-250rwkw. From hunting through various dyno charts I have come to the same conclusion though that the higher compression doesn't actually add much to torque for set-ups of equivalent peak power (Nissan did go to a lot of effort to make the standard engines pull well in midrange) As for His comment Re: my comment on injectors, that is what I said, 370cc are a must but run out of error margin when going past 10psi (although that is from tunes on American fuel with lots of intake mods, don't know if that will change here)
No, not at all. I drive an JDM NA with minor breathing mods. Its fair to say that it has a more aggressive tune in the ECU than an ADM. Its in good order and repair, and even on 95 pump fuel, it will detonate easily and this detonation will vary greatly from quite a bit to none on pump 95. I can run it on 98 and the problem is obviously not so much a problem but the fact remains that even NA, on reasonable pump fuel, it will rattle. Now, its easy enough to add fuel and reduce timing.......... read above! The point I make is that the high CR engine, under blown conditions is far less tolerant to fuel variations/ tuning and by the time you detune to build in a suitable buffer, or tuning headroom for safety, the benefits you are chasing are simply NOT THERE. is why manufacturers almost UNIVERSALLY soften turbo engines with lower CR. So, my point is, why bother? Its purely a mod for mods sake and will achieve little to nothing which has been documented in the past.......UNLESS you run it on corn juice..... Thats another story! E
If tuned properly it can last just as long as any other engine, plus if you can do it cheap, why not? I know of a few cars that are NA+T, including one skyline which runs 18psi daily on 98RON and has been going for 5+ years now(285rwkw). If i were to go single on a Z32, i'd rearmount it. Many people who have never driven or been in one of these setups will talk BS about lag, but its just that, BS. I've driven TWO rearmount turbo cars and believe it or not the difference between front mount and rear mount is negligible on the street. Yes even on small engines, it DOES NOT MATTER if the engine is 2L or 8L, it will spool VERY similarly. Infact one of the cars i had driven had a normal highmount mani + ebay t3/t4, sold that setup and went rearmount and said performance was almost exactly the same. The lag only becomes a problem when the engine is cold, once the engine is at operating temp everything is as normal. There are however a few things to take into consideration: 1. Heat wrap the exhaust, it will help spool a bit 2. Make sure you have no exhaust leaks 3. Oil scavenge pump to return oil or get one of those comp oil-less turbos 4. Maybe throw on one of those water resistant socks on the pod filter If you want stealth have a look at this, spools up a GT35R almost instantly INB4rearmountturbosdontworkandiknowbetterbecauseireadsoontheinternet Edit: Just a little add on vid, tiny engine, now running 11.90's [yt]lftAaUHnUik[/yt]
Because I'm young and crave adventure I know for a fact you haven't always made sensible choices because you're on a 300zx forum E85 is indeed my plan B, I'm going for 740cc's now just in-case I need them later
No-one says it cant be done. as you say, it's has been done and done successfully. No dispute In the OP's case he want to do it because hes "young and adventurous".............. Thats his thing, hes going to need that adventurousness and quite a bit of money. Read on. Im saying, if its done in the way he originally describes as a low boost conservative setup "just for that tiny bit extra horses lol and not keen to wind it out for hard work, just cruiz." Then there are ittle to no benefits to be had against a costly and labour intensive mechanical exercise. not to mention that he wants to run it on corn juice. Well that on its own is a reasonably involved job involving a retuned ECU along with the said big injectors....... Turbo-mah-hooter....Im guessing something easy, say off an RB25 for for say 150 to 200 bucks. A new turbo manifold is made for one side 10 -12 hours work with about 100 dollars in materials, 80 bucks for a profile cut 14mm thich manifold flange and 80 dollars final machining after fabrication (or around 600-800 dollars for something from a workshop) Add a new manifold gasket, turbo flange plate (ebay) and gasket. A crossover pipe from the "other" side of the engine which will require at least 2 x 90 degree bends and several meters of 2" pipe along with 2 x flange gaskets so about 100 dollars. 2 hours work at least or prolly 250 at a shop. A turbo oil drain pipe. A couple of dollars for an egay flange and gasket kit 10 bucks and an hours work Around 120 dollars in oil supply lines and fittings. If the turbo is water cooled then modified banjos and some silicone 8mm pressure hose along with adapting to the water system. A couple of hours minimum and.. what some hose, hose clamps and water hosetails..... 25 dollars? A custom dump/original exhaust adapter made so a 2.5" bend, an M16 x 1.25mm weld on fitting for O2 sensor, cut flanges.... Praps 50 dollars plus a gasket and 4 hours work or 250 dollars at a shop. Another 25 dollars in additional sundry fasteners Additional inlet piping from the AFM, into the engine bay and on to the turbo (assuming the turbo has a tubular snout). Prolly 3 or 4 x 25 dollar silicone bends, clamps and straight 2.5" pipe so up near the 200 dollar mark. Id take several hours to complete this task alone. Add an adapter from the AFM to the single pipe as well. Easily double that if you want it done in a shop. A custom turbo to TB's pipe setup. at least 4 x tube bends, straight pipe and 3 x silicone sleeves and clamps, 100 dolars? Add your plenum pull gaskets and such, injectors, ECU at several hours and your pretty close to a start. What, 100 bucks for injectors and say 100 for gaskets and underplenum replacements??? Guessing A quick addup for a simple and straightforward setup is...... in excess of 800 dollars, assuming you do the whole job yourself, just in goodies, not to mention consumables such as gas and filler wire. Add the corn juice route and you should add another 1000 or so.. give or take.... This topic has been discussed at length very recently. Double the price of anything you have to get done by a workshop Now before some of you swing your cocks around shouting "woo woo", bitching "what the farrk does tassuperkart know about anything",.....Well, I know all the bollocks above this because I have done exactly the exercise that your proposing and I know exactly how much work, time and importantly how much money it costs to do such a job. I didnt have a choice tho so dont bother trotting that out. Against just purchasing a S/H TT engine, or even just a TT manifold/turbo setup..... Like I keep saying, its not worth the bother. Yep, your going to need all of that adventurousness (and plenty of coin) you have young fella!!!!!! E
You've got me and the OP mixed together there, mine is actually going to be replacing a tired TT engine with a healthy NA engine, upgrading injectors while doing hoses etc. and then getting a tune.
