When I removed my timing belt the backplates were off especially the drivers side so the marks didn't line when the belt and sprockets were right. Is there a way to get both plates set right so everything is in line? I was hoping there would be a reference point on the block but nope.
Interesting to hear that. Another reminder of how annoyed I am that my mechanic was "she'll be right" using the marks on plates and belt rather than teeth
No. The exact location of the sprockets will vary with deck height. The marks are general indication only. Use marks on sprockets and on the belt only.
Tip, when doing timing belts, I always mark the belts and the sprockets with paint texta or white out, then transfer these marks to the new belt, then put the new belt back on lining up these marks. Much easier to get the new belt on correctly, assuming of course the old belt wasn't out a tooth to start with lol!
Don't take any short cuts. If you are not sure get someone to help you that is. Always use the marks on the cam gears x 4 and the crank sprocket x 1 . Line them up with the belt marks and remember the belt has to face the correct way ( usually has the word front or an arrow on it that faces the front of the car ) .Then COUNT THE TEETH . As per manual ( it is easy to understand ) . Always do a teeth count. Adjust tensioner correctly ( i use a 4mm drill bit in the gap to adjust ) . Always turn crank over with socket after adjusting tensioner then recheck as you will need to do this a few times as the tension can change as the motor turns the belt. Each time you do a timing belt it gets easier. Cheers Dave
Shane, yeah everything is very visible and I was lucky that the engine last stopped within a couple of turns of the marks on everything lining up which was handy. Twin Terror, yeah Nissan belt is being used so it's easy to see the direction etc. I've read about tooth counting and have a FSM but didn't see anything on tooth counting in the timing belt section the other day. I've set the auto tensioner to 4mm with my vernier so that's ready to roll, then it says once the belt is on and tensioner in place to rotate the engine 120 degrees clockwise then back, im guessing to allow the belt to seat right over the tensioner. Guides i've read before have said to rotate the crank 4 times, although im guessing that's to check valve clearance? gmbrezzo, my backing plates aren't dowel located, there are metal guides that go through rubber insulators but the insulators have probably shrunk with heat exposure and they flex there is still some movement and no set position when tightening hence why I think my drivers side was so out. Not a problem though it just bugs my OCD
Question - How the hell do you get 90 ft-lb on the intake cam bolts if you're doing it by yourself??? I see the only way to do that being to remove the cam covers and having a spanner on the flats of the cams which im reluctant to do as I just stuck them on there! Got the plates and timing belt back on this evening thanks everyone for the help. The guide in the tech section is gold but it's made me concerned about the way I put the cam seals in as the guide was very specific. Back plates are quite off but it's all lined up, counts right and turns without catching. For anyone's reference the tooth count on the belt runs like this.... From the the crank to the right cam gear, across the top anti-clockwise and back to the crank you should count: 59, 24, 45, 24, 76 teeth between each belt mark. A tooth counts as the dip in the belt where it's thinnest (where the teeth on the gears sit)
That would be an easy one. Put a socket on an extension and place on the bolt in the backing plate through the hole in the cam sprocket. This will stop the cam sprocket from turning while you apply the torque pressure. You will have to hold both the torque wrench and the extension bar from slipping off.
No probs. Some times its can be a case of can't see the trees for the forest. Has happened to me as well.
