Series 1 PTU failure symptoms

Discussion in 'Technical' started by JONZ32, Mar 15, 2009.

  1. JONZ32

    JONZ32 New Member

    Having a few problems with my 89 TT:

    1) It will randomly whilst under acceleration, (acceleration ranging from gentle to heavy) cut out for a second, then instantly surge back to life making it seem like I have just stamped on the brake momentarily whilst accelerating. This has happened several times.

    2) Last night when I first starting moving out of the driveway, I heard a bang noise. I got out to check if I had run over or hit anything, and checked the engine bay to see if any pipes, hoses, or caps had blown off. All seemed normal, so I proceeded. A few minutes later whilst cruising down a hill I went to shift from 5th to 4th, and upon putting it in Neutral between gears all the hazard/caution lights came on: check engine, battery, etc but the engine was still running, and I still had control. This problem disappeared once I re-engaged gear.

    Thoughts: I currently still have a series 1 ptu. I intend to upgrade this to a series 2 anyway regardless of the conclusion of this thread/problem.

    What I would like to know is the specific symptoms associated with a Series 1 ptu failing so that I can isolate the problem(s). PTUs are well discussed on this thread but I have not been able to find specifics other than this one by heavytrevy:
    The cutting out part seems to match but I was not in a high heat driving envelope last night (high speed, low revs down a hill, cold night).

    Any takers?

    sorry about the long story for those of you who already spend far too much time on this forum.

    JonZ32
     
  2. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    classic symptoms.

    cutting out
    hesitating
    car turning off while driving
    dropping cylinders
    missing
    rough idle
    hunting idle
    etc etc

    100% failure rate chuck a S2 in and be done with it :D:D
     
  3. Zxryan

    Zxryan New Member

    does that explain all the lights thou.maybe it was close to stall so all the lights can on??
     
  4. K-zed

    K-zed Secret Squirrel

    Dash lights coming on indicates engine continuity fuse is loose or damaged. Also check CAS connector pins are clean and tight.
     
  5. Vizard

    Vizard Active Member

    Mine misses sometimes, for some reason it does it more so when the fuel is closer to empty. My car was missing heeps yesterday and i had 95 vortex in there, filled her up with 98 vortex and hasnt missed a beat since....

    coincidence or not? i have a S1 PTU btw, i dont want to chance to a S2 unless i have to.
     
  6. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    why chance it. s1 have a 100% failure rate. s2 costs less than 250 bucks ...

    or s1.. breaking down somewhere random.
    getting a tow truck
    waiting 3 hours
    150 bucks later for tow

    and Then buying a s2.. not 2 mention the car runs a ton better with a s2
     
  7. Vizard

    Vizard Active Member

    if they had 100% failure rate surely mine would have failed by now lol.
     
  8. ZEDZY

    ZEDZY Active Member

    Just about everything has a 100 percent failure rate.
     
  9. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    just wait.. theres a reason nissan america did a Factory recall on them !
     
  10. yellow_300zx

    yellow_300zx New Member

    its not if its when,
     
  11. method

    method Active Member

    I've seen one completely not even let the car start. Happened ages ago when I was doing a plenum pull with Blipman, we had it sitting out of the engine for a few hours, put it back in and it failed. I would get a series 2, check the tt.net forums. I managed to pick one up virtually brand new and delivered express post for about $120AUD.
     
  12. Vizard

    Vizard Active Member

    $250 new? or S/H? i was gonna buy from caz this morning but they are up there for $449.

    Can you just buy the unit alone or do you need all the connecters as well? can the unit on its own be changed from S1 to S2 or are the plugs all different?

    edit : are the rb25/rb20 ptu's the same? ive read the zed one can be used on those engine, so im guessing its the same ?
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2009
  13. WazTTed

    WazTTed Grease Monkey

    haha thought u were 100% in love with your series 1 why dont u leave it on since your so certain its the shnizzle :D:D:D!!
     
  14. jaybo

    jaybo New Member

    i had a series 1 and had no grief, doing the TT conversion now and gone to series 2 in the process- better not cause me grief!! :D
     
  15. LOWZX

    LOWZX Banned

    why do you keep posting that garbage :rolleyes:,you even did a poll which showed thats not true lol,they do not have a 100% failure rate :confused:
    Most of the cars here still run a series 1,most people change out as a preventative measure,not because of failure
     
  16. AndyMac

    AndyMac Better than you

    I'd put money (if I had any) on the fact that you forgot to attach the plenum ground wire after the pull. Unattached = 100% failure of the PTU. I'd even dare say that it's the most major cause for PTU failure.
     
  17. ice3535

    ice3535 New Member

    i have one on the way... only cost me AU$65! off ebay...
     
  18. Vizard

    Vizard Active Member

    im not in love with it, but im not paying 450$ for a new one nor 250$ for a S/H one.

    someone needs to do the group buy where they were 75$ again!
     
  19. Vizard

    Vizard Active Member

    btw, can anyone confirm if the rb20 / rb25 ptu's are the same? i can guarantee if i walk into a wrecker and ask for a 300zx ptu he will ask double that of an rb25 ptu lol.
     
  20. JONZ32

    JONZ32 New Member

    Thankyou

    Thanks for the response, WazTTed - I definately have a few of those symptoms.

    K-Zed - thanks for the tip, I will check the fuse and connectors.

    Vizard - re-check with CAZ, as the price is largely dependent on the rise and fall of the dollar.

    ZEDZY - damn straight mate, they weren't made to last forever.

    Jon
     

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