Yes, obviously! Sounds like a plan then. Wasn't really sure what to make of it. I'm assuming adjustable end links would solve the issue to an extent, but would leave much to be desired handling wise afterwards?
So to be certain, if the rear coils were adjusted unevenly to even the height and the sway bar end links were adjusted to suite what effect would this have on handling?
Well, that depends on the suspension. If you have seperate height and preload adjustment then you are ok to adjust the shock body , as long as your spring perch is the same. These should only be adjusted when preloading and using corner weights. However adjusting shock heights will have an effect on sway bar tension, so you don't want it to different between sides.
I have separate adjustment, but the cup is maxed so the spring perchs are wouifnd down as well = no reading. When raised up, the springs are "loose" on both sides, so if I lowered the perch on one side down they still both won't be preloaded. I'd use adjustable end links to remove the sway bar tension.
Yes, zero preload, but your reducing your shock travel by lowering the perch. Springs should not be loose on full droop. If you travel is too small then you can prematurely wear the seals in the shock body, also run the risk of hitting bump stops on full compression. Not only a handling risk, but further damage to the shock.
Although I'd prefer they weren't loose, there's another 3 inches of adjustment available in the rear coilovers just for winding the perch down so I'm hoping they were designed to do that and won't prematurely wear out. So I'm guessing this is the lesser of two evils then? If you even the height the geometry will be symmetrical, but there'll be less travel on one side.
Wild guess here but what about the fuel tank? I'm sure it's situated on the left side and when full can be very heavy
EXACTLY what he said. Getting rideheight V's cornerweight is close to a black art, especially so without scales! Know this tho. ANY adjustment on ANY corner will affect the other 3 corners as well so its not so simple as to drop one corner 9mm to make it go down. The other 2 (diagonally opposite) springs will support MORE weight making your single corner adjustment increasingly inneffective. So to get a meanignful adjustment, to drop a front right corner, you might try and drop the right rear an front left corners alone/as well as well as jacking the left rear......... This may hopefully keep weight on the left side rear which would otherwise unload along with the other 2......... simple isnt it!! A ghetto arrangement is to jack up under the exact middle of each end on a length of tubing on the top plate of the jack (so the diff/xmember can freely rotate) and adjust the other end. Measuring down to the ground from a fixed point. Say.... the subframe attachments on the back and the xmember attachments on the front. NOT the bottom of the wheels as the hanging points could have different heights which is quite usual in a production car. Drop the car, roll it back and forwards, lift it up and measure down from your datum points. Get where you want it and then swap ends. All this presumes you have previously set the spring perches all equally so your springs have equal preload AND disconnected the swaybars each end. Rideheight/cornerweight adjustment is not as straightforward as it first appears and a tedious and painful beeyatch to get even CLOSE to correct!!!!!! have fun! E
Uneven cornerweights adversely affect overall handling in a variety of ways and altho not necessarily dangerous, nearly all of them are undesrieable unless you are setting up for one direction corner only. Cornerweight is crucial. E
Thanks for the wealth of information, you really know your shit. I guess what I'm asking is if a small alteration on one side compared to the other is going to make a noticeable difference on a street car. I'm trying to get it sit correctly on all four corners, as is my camber is uneven compensating...
Baaahahaha at above!!!!!! Anti, look, unless you make really big and wholesale adjustments then no, not really. if it looks allright youll be right! The more error in cornerweights you get then the more ugly a problem might be but this will usually result in some slightly different handling characteristics going from left to right. Nothing enough to kill you as such but enough to be noticeable if you ask it a question. E
