Radiator cracked - replacement suggestion

Discussion in 'Technical' started by z-alot, Dec 14, 2010.

  1. z-alot

    z-alot Member

    Finally on my NA my topend radiator hose inout/outlet cracked to a few pieces on my original equipment. the hose outlet is now missing 2/3's of its area :D

    Whats the best way forward -

    1/ Direct fit in replacement Koyo $270 locally

    2/ ASI rad but need to modify (how much are TT fan shrouds upper/lower normally?)
    New from CAZ its $150 is and $85..
    Wrecker cost would be?
    Not sure if its a drop in replacement once a TT shroud is sourced besides the lower rad mounting bracket that needs to be created.
    With a ASI rad can I keep the clutch fan or is clearance an issue?

    3/ Just get the top bottom plastic ends replaced.

    My rad has been been taken very good care of but since its 20 years old might as well replace the whole alot..

    The direct replacement of Koyo is great (less work) but those plastic end tanks I just think its a weakness that can be replaced by a full alloy.

    On the other side read about Jedi-77's PWR alloy rad having some rusting issues maybe due to stray current/grounding.
     
  2. CHILI

    CHILI Indestructable Target

    I would go for the Koyo.
    BTW, alloy does not rust(any rust generated in Jedi's cooling system would have to come from the engine block water jacket).
     
  3. JEDI-77

    JEDI-77 Jedi Master

    some answers...

    My NA radiator did the same to me a few years back. At the time I sent it to a radiator place and they replaced the whole top tank, and then flushed and rodded the tank. That radiator has now been sitting in red32's car as I sold it to him when I got my PWR radiator. To this day, it still still works flawlessly and no leaks. So replacing the top tank is an option if thats what you wanted to do.

    The other option is an aftermarket radiator. In the past I have used PWR and and am now using Koyo. Both are great radiators. You just need to make sure that you have no stray currents and that none of the car metal is touching the radiator, essentially creating a circuit. Thats what killed my PWR, otherwise I would still have it today.

    Keep in mind, that the stock nissan radiator also has an aluminum core and so is prone to the same failings as the aftermarket aluminium radiators. However, the plastic tanks do help isolate it a little better from other parts of the metal body.
     
  4. JEDI-77

    JEDI-77 Jedi Master

    yes...

    what Chili said.... It wasnt rust that killed my PWR radiator. It was electrolysis.

     
  5. z-alot

    z-alot Member

    Thanks Jedi and Chilli!

    I guess thats a plus with plastic end tanks, minimise possible metal contact.

    I'll pull out the rad tonight and inspect the general condition but Im not really confident in getting new plastic ends sinces its 20 years old rad anyways. Might as replace the whole thing and it could last another 20 years.

    I do get a warm fuzzy feeling with a all alloy rad but its hard to go past the justification for modification plus I've read a few ppl gave up their clutch fan for electro ones which Im not keen on.
     
  6. Benny_C

    Benny_C About as subtle as...

    ASI radiators are fine for clearances regarding fan and shround. The only issue with them is you have to just grind a tiny bit of your shroud away at the face of it where it sits flat against the radiator for clearance regarding your upper radiator hose. And you'll have to just shorten that hose a tad too so it doesn't "kink". Apart from that, there have been many success stories from that radiator as a good, reliable and cheap OEM replacement radiator.

    I personally got my stock radiator flushed, rodded, etc.. and new plastic end tanks put on about 5 years ago and has been an absolute dream ever since. No issues at all, and can't get it over 90 degrees with plenty of boosting, A/C always on, and on 35+ degree Qld summer days. So that's just my personal testimonial, but try some searching for other peoples experiences and gather your own from there. :)
     
  7. Stef

    Stef Active Member

    You could of course go to a radiator shop and get a new stock replacement one.
    That should be good for another 20 years.
    No mods needed
    From memory in the order of $200 (???)
     
  8. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    Yeah I have replaced a few radiators (two camry one triton) recently and all were less than $200 for new stock replacement. I think this would be a good option where an upgrade is not required.
     
  9. z-alot

    z-alot Member

    Hmm called up one member recommended radaitor shop and they qouted $270.. COZ sells them for $220 I would assume USA prices are cheaper than Aussie prices... Might call around tomorrow to confirm if thats the cheapest.

    I believe its the same Koyo used for Maxima J-30 like here

    http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=2059&Car_Type=300&UID=

    Support to be 2-row better than the stock 1 row..
     
  10. 300ZXC

    300ZXC #TEAMROB

    Hypo/theoretically, you can fit a J30 maxima radiator into yours. Use the stock shroud and just drill some new bolt holes to mount the shroud with :D
    I have a J30 maxima radiator in my Z. It's thicker than the stock Z32 one :p
    I have an NA also, if you wanna go down that path PM me for a little more guidance.

    Cheers,
    Tom
     
  11. z-alot

    z-alot Member

    Just a quick update.. I went down the Koyo Maxima J-30 Rad route still with plastic tanks @ $280

    I called up a few places and kept on getting qoutes of $300 to $320 for brands I've never heard of before..

    Figured plastic ends should last at least 15 years and help avoid accidental electrolysis, its a upgrade any way from 1 row to 2 rows..

    Could have got a chinese delivered one to fit stock NA but since it wasn't ASI brand quality could be random, so Koyo it is. :)
     
  12. OZX_320

    OZX_320 Detachable Member

    The chinese delivered all alloy unit is not a direct fit.
    *The top tank sits higher, thus the mounts have to be spaced a bit. Then the bonnet rod has to be reshaped to fall into the raised position of latching clips.
    *The shroud mounting points in no way match the OEM unit.

    After those couple of hurdles have been overcome, they are a nice cheap unit (about the price of an ebay ASI TT unit. $220 mine cost from memory).

    OEM definitely the way to go for simplicity to install, and the Maxima equivalents are a much thicker unit.
     
  13. z-alot

    z-alot Member

    I was thinking about a down flow one besides the typical ASI cross flows ones. Seem to be similar dimensions as a stock fitting NA one.. Not sure if it would suffer from same fitting issues.. Down Flow tank ebay one (not ASI)

    Anyway I couldnt find have any proven history of these in use and I know less issues with Koyo and thick core was bonus. :D
     
  14. OZX_320

    OZX_320 Detachable Member

    thats the same radiator that I put in my NA. Has the above mentioned problems with fitting, but is a well constructed unit. 999 Automotive supplied mine, so was able to inspect prior to purchase.
     
  15. z-alot

    z-alot Member

    Cool thanks looks like I saved myself some trouble there :)
     

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