just wondering if it is normal for the turbo's not to get onto boost until the car is warm, it is a standard ecu just remapped? in the mornings mine will not boost, just runs NA until the temp gauge gets to about 1/3 and then the turob's will start running. it makes pretty good power, apparently tuned by someone who races them, done in melbourne somewhere by previous owner. i'm going to get it dyno'd soon so I know how much power its making. my mate has a pretty heavily worked r33 gts-t that was running only low boost after a rebuild (about 8psi i think), he reckons he had about 170rwkw at the time and I was beating him fairly easily. probably have at least 180-190rwkw at a guess.
I dont know of a way..... to do this and i tune ecu's as well. the only way i could imagine achieving this would be to hold the waste gates open. but the wastegate are set at a certain PSI to open dependant on turbo type or waste gate type. so i dont see how that could work either. i supose you could tune the ecu with extreamly retarded timing and lean the fuel, but id hardly say this would stop the turbos spooling at all. id imagin it would it slow the turbos spooling. but the car would be as slugish as hell to drive.also as the ecu detects the temp rise it retards the timing further anyhows.dosent sound right at all dude.anyhows if you need a bench mark for yours. heres the details of the last virtualy stock zed i tuned.93 auto converted to manual. exhaust restrictors removed. pod filter. boost @ .9 bar 297.5hp run at a dyno day in shoot out mode on a dyno dynamics. not a bad run considering the dyno mob forgot to turn on the cooling fan :>< id post the graph but it wasnt my car so i dont have a copy.
Yeah its sort of odd... all i know is that it runs fine even when the turbo's don't spool up (plenty of power), just no boost, as soon as temp hits 1/3 bam... full boost.There is no leaks at all around the turbo's clean as a whistle... they have been rebuilt before i bought it.It is weird but they car runs perfectly, shit load of power when it hits full boost. The wheels will chirp occasionally at 80km/h when full boost hits in 2nd and that's not on a gear change.Throws you right back in the seat, few of my friends said the fastest car they've ever been in, along the lines of "that is f**king ridiculosly quick for a near standard car" (that was from a mate who's spent heaps on a r33 gts-t and i still beat him), and another "that's the f**king quickest car I've ever been in", "shit that's quick" etc etc.Whoever tuned it must have known what they were doing because it goes pretty hard.Even had some dude in a 180sx try and drag me off the lights, I beat him even with a dodgy clutch, pulled up next to me at the next set of lights, got me to wind my window down and goes "f**k man that thing is quick". It goes pretty well so there couldn't be anything majorly wrong with it I'd hope.
From my limited knowledge I thought that the ECU held the motor in safety boost (ie; little/none) until the temp hits normal operating range (around 80deg)? See this article from Wykked for more info on safety boost.:YD
standard function, from cold to 64deg >> the wastegates are open until the water temp hits 65deg, then they allow full boost up to the maximum setting on your zed. This ensures that the engine's lubrication and cooling systems are within minimum operating ranges to allow for the conditions that higher boost puts on these systems. So you have nothing to worry about, it is normal for all zeds to do this. Boost will be limited to 7psi (safety boost, this is an open condition on the wastegates bleeding boost off into the exhausts). >>>> CHEERS SIMONBTW ... a zed with a faulty temp sensor can cause this condition as the ECU is given a signal that makes it believe the water temp is below 64deg and thus opens the wastegates bleeding boost off.
I did notice that BUT >> I provided the info on the basis that in the last 7 years I have come across many zed owners that were not aware of that and I was letting people know it is normal for zeds to do this providing they have OEM wastegate canisters. On the other hand if you have aftermarket wastegate canisters with higher spring pressures then safety boost will be raised to the minimum level that the springs provide. I also find that most zed owners are not aware that the stock dash temp gauge will sit in the normal position when it gets to 65deg and will NOT move at all until reaching 106deg (that 41degs & NO movement)... how do I know this, for 4 years now I have owned both the NISSAN consult and DTA conzult and have verified this on a number of zeds.As far as Shane's issue goes with little or NO boost, I ASSUMED that maybe he had not verified that he had NO boost ... when cold his boost level should be checked with a known accurate aftermarket boost gauge to substantiate that a NIL boost condition is occurring. Also after the water temp is at or around 80deg his maximum boost should be checked. Once completed then accurate diagnosis of potential problem/s can be theorised. >> CHEERS SIMON
