POD filter V's Foam filter - Interesting Results!

Hmmm, I'm not sure where you got that from.
The JWT style pop chargers do not have and end entry, only side entry.
The tape part you may have seen was serving the same purpose as my previously posted flower pot mod however a very weak atempt.

The flower pot mod (shield) is not restrictive at all but actually quite the contrary. It's purpose is to prevent not only the everyday road dust and debris and rain from clogging the filter, but also to prevent the effects caused by buffeting wind gusts. It flowed so well that buffeting air affected the MAF which inturn created jerking/hesitation. If it was restrictive, the MAF wouldn't be so adversely affected by wind gusts/buffeting.
The flower pot mod (shield) does not come in contact with the filtering medium. There's still a substantial gap between the two.


FWIW, I had an HKS style intake years ago.





I used it for maybe two months and was not impressed with it at all and sold it for $50.00. I'm not a fan of foam type filtering medium as I had something similar on my Ducati years ago. I still think the sandwiched oiled gauze type is by far a safer, cleaner and more reliable method for an enthusiast.

 

I've been running the Apexi Pod filter for years and never an issue in the rain. I initially ran a Unifilter and while I did not have issues, there was a lot of talk about if it was oiled a little too much it would carry over onto the hot wire. This was my only concern but as others have stated, an oiled element will out perform a paper element.

 

I also used Apexi dry paper filters for years and had no issues.

I don't like oiled filters, I'm sure they're fine if used and maintained properly, but... you know... Who does that?

 

Genuine HKS is a "sandwiched oil gauze type". I don't believe those yellow foam only elements are genuine, and may be the cause of the "HKS foam filter disintegrated and sucked into intake" stories.

 

I have been looking everywhere for one of these adapters, can anyone point me in the right direction?

I just wanna get my filters nice and high and this seems to be the best way.

 

My experience with pod filters....if your car measures air intake via an AFM, DONT use oiled pod filters. I would also say this for the results of the comparison test article others were talking about, this is the same article below if just on a different site, about halfway down the page.

http://pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.385

My main reason though when talking about AFMs is because the oil from the pod eventually coats the hot wire and kills the AFM. I have a K&N oiled pod on my R31 and am now up to my 3rd AFM, it's just lucky I've was able to source a cheap 2nd hand one the first time and a freebie off a mate the 2nd time the oil killed the 2nd AFM.

I've run twin Apexi power intake dry paper element pods on my ex-GTR for the past 4.5 years and they've never missed a beat. Renee is also running an Apexi on hers without issue and her splashguard is missing though the stillen front bar does protect it a fair bit compared to the old stock bar.

I think if you want to use oil to help keep out water spray and such, Kingys proved solution of an oiled foam sock over a wireframe to keep it off the paper element would be the best of both worlds.

That's just my thoughts and advice on the matter anyway, good luck with it Benny :thumbup:

Cheers,

Craig

 

Never had

a problem with the hot wire's in my car, i use two jwt pods and two live afm's, and there cleaned and lightly oiled when ever they need to be. Always use a splash shield.


http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massairfindings.htm

 

Question, did you clean and re oil your filter?
Also, only 1hp difference in gain across all 4 tested; who's going to notice that?

 

Here is a 'proper' air filter test.

Clicky

Unfortunately the piccies are dead

And Beaver, you even driven your Zed in the last 4 years?


Edit:

This link has working piccies
Working Clicky

 

Yes

 

Not

far but yes I've driven it. The single jwt oiled pod had previously been on the car for years, without incident.
I prefer my link (proper) believe what you want, its free.

 

I would like to point out that your article is based around MAF sensors, not AFMs which work differently. I believe MAFs aren't susceptible to damage by the oil like AFMs are.

MAFs measure your air mass where AFMs measure the air speed inside a controlled space by a hot wire to determine the amount of air entering the engine.

I forgot to add as well for what I said earlier, that before the AFMs died the car would become increasingly hesitant below 2000rpm (remember this is in my R31 so its not going to directly correlate to Z32s, its just my finding on the use of oiled pod filters). You could spray contact cleaner on the hot wire which would improve performance a bit but eventually the AFM would die from continued day to day use of the oiled pod. Whenever it got to the hesitant stage you knew the oiled pod had claimed another victim and you would be up for a new AFM shortly after ...many others on the R31 forum experienced the same issue with AFMs and oiled pods, it could be something specific to the R31 AFM though as I am still waiting for any Z stories of the same nature

I just know that the Apexi pods are great!

Cheers,

Craig

 

Therein may lie your problem. HKS oiled filter elements are designed to be replaced, not washed and re-oiled. Could this be the case with the ones you're using?

 

My understanding, strictly speaking is they are the same thing. Few different ways of measuring the flow though.

One way uses a hinged 'door' to measure the air flow. Mazda uses these a bit.

Another uses a hot wire which is kept at a certain temperature and the extra power required to keep it at a set temperature allows it to work out how much air is going through.

 

Its the same

thing, if anyone bothered to hit some of the other links on the k+n page they'd possibly see that in the independent test (with nice color graphs) results supplied to k+n, not one case of oil contaminating a hot wire from oiled pods was found to be the cause any problem.

 

Doubt it since it came with instructions to wash and re-oil it and had a matching maintenance kit that had liquid you sprayed on pre-wash too soften all the gunk up and the oil to re-oil it.

Anyway, as I was saying thats just my experiences with the oiled pod and I know other people in the R31 club have had the same issue...maybe its just R31 AFMs that do this.

With the MAF and AFM, like you were saying Chrispy maybe its just the way the technology is employed...they can both be hotwire devices but output a different kind of data? The way I learned it they were definitely two different types of sensors used for the same purpose - to measure air, each with their own pros and cons as usual.

Anyway my votes still with Kings approach

Cheers,

Craig

 

Sorry, I didn't even see that.

 

Sounds like people who have experienced MAF (Hotwire) issues after oiling their gauze type filters are over-oiling them. Or, re-installing them too soon after being re-oiled.

I've been using K&N type re-usable/cleanable gauze type filters on my various vehicles for almost 20 years.
I have seen people who literally soak their filter which is very wrong. And/or they oil sprayed the inside of the filter which is also very wrong.
My normal filter maintenance routine entails;
1. Spraying the filter with the oil cleaner/remover on the outside only portion of the filter.
2. I let it sit in a laundry tub and letting it soak through for a while.
3. Rinsing that oil/cleaner out from the inside to out only. And repeat steps 1 thru 3 as necessary til the gauze is completely clean.
4. I let the gauze filter dry throroughly for a few days outside in the fresh air and sun.
5. Re-oil the filter from the outside only.
6. Let sit again outside in the sun and breeze for at least another day.
7. Install after I'm confident that any extra/residual surface oil is not present.

 

In regards to when I cleaned and re-oiled mine, I did pretty much the same as you except within like half a day as the R31 was my daily driver and couldn't have it off the road for 3-4 days.

Spray / wash inside to out / go again if it needs it / let dry in sun / re-oil on outside and install back on car / drive later that day - next day.

There is the possibility that I over oiled it without realising but I only ever sprayed enough on (outside only too ) to make the membrane turn red from the die in the oil as its supposed to so you can easily see where you've oiled and how much.

So yeah, not sure what the go is but I would never use oiled pods on the GTR and got Renee to change hers to a dry element to eliminate the risk as new AFMs aint cheap.

Cheers,

Craig

 

Number 6 in the above post is very important, something most do not do. Having been a fairly serious dirt bike rider, I only ever used TwinAir oil foam filters, depending on conditions, sometimes changing them twice a day. If I left my spare filters at home, and had to oil and refit straight away, the Keihin FCR carb would give all kinds of hesitation issues for a good hour or so until the oil mist was eventually consumed by the engine.

Secondly, never did I have dust in the carb boot if the filter was correctly cleaned, lubed and fitted. Dirt bike riding in a drought effected QLD is a very harsh enviroment. My last bike was also setup for Supermotard, I would just change the wheels and suspension setup for where I was riding, this means it had alot of large holes cut into the air box sides to let the engine breath a bit better so it was very open to dust and water ingress.

Thirdly, Wooshka's car has had a K&N oiled pod filter fitted for over 10,000km's with out a single issue in any conditions. No dust in the Tee, no hesitation, no dead AFM's.