That'll be great Dave cheers I should mend my temp sensor first tho... I believe this is the issue We can check the TPS too?
I think you may of solved my issue, my CTS plug was terrible, kept causing my thermo fan to turn on / off after how much I cleaned it. Ended up replacing the CTS and still I had the thermo fan woes so I got sick of it and ripped off the plug one morning. Left the terminals connected without a plug and the fan never came on again. Since I connected the CTS directly to the terminals / pins I have had detonation. This morning the first thing on my shopping list was http://carcraze.com.au/bosch-electrical-connector-2-pin-quick-release/ Hopefully this resolves the issue once and for all, if it does I will be buying drinks!
Coolant temp sensor in your pic Is the one on the left, right? But I thought that unplugging it (no signal to ecu) would result in the ecu turning on the fan .
Lol I'm in for drinks bahaha I too ordered temp sensor and other bits this morning lol but realised it was the temp guage sensor that I soldered the wire too... Ill still fix that aswell tho
If you have a defect relating to the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) Fault Code 13 should be logged in the ECU. From the Nissan Factory Service Manual: Engine Temperature Sensor Malfunction When engine temperature sensor output voltage is below or above the specified value engine coolant temperature is fixed at the preset value as follows: Start - 20 deg C & Running - 80 deg C.
Thanks for this. I replaced the CTS plug but still I have pinging. I feel like such a nub when it comes to timing also, I was reading what Conzult said (15 at idle). I know this is definitely not right - time for that timing light. From a check of the bolt location on my CAS, can any of you guys recognize if its too advanced or retarded (not sure if it may be an indication)? [size=-5][/size]
Yours looks too far left compared to mine, although I'm having the problem aswell, I believe it's more to do with a sensor somewhere. On mine the bolt is in the middle of the slot in the CAS
The 15 degrees displayed by ConZult is NOT your timing setting. To check your timing you need a timing light. The specs are 15 degrees + or minus 2 degrees. Therefore the timing would be in specification anywhere from 13 degrees to 17 degrees. Some cars may ping at 17 degrees others may not. When the timing is checked, the engine should be at normal operating temperature & idling at the specified RPM.
I think there is a base timing like you said an advanced one on TT that lets the engine advance to 45 degrees before TDC so you need someone who knows these engines to help you time it correctly first and output some real data like datascan to see if air mix etc temp advance all things are where they are supposed to be first
James is your DET sensor relocated? If so if be keen if I was you to revert back to the origonal position! It could be not happy there and giving funny readings. I'm one for leaving things as the engineer spent many hours and money engineering. Which leads to a question, I have a new DET sensor, and will be doing a plenum pull again soon, and I was wondering if its replaceable in stock position at this stage?
You guys with NA pinging problems... I really do feel for you If you do a search on my name and pinging and you'll find a ton of posts from me about pinging probs with my old NA ... It drove me mental at the time. M E N T A L!.... I essentially could not drive around on a warm day with the A/C on, as the extra load of the A/C would make the engine ping, but only under very light throttle between 2500-3000 rpm.... My car did have the EGR deleted, and my probs started after that. I got bagged a few times because everyone was saying "it cant be the EGR because my EGR is deleted and my car doesnt ping"..... Thats fine. But on my car, after the EGR delete, it would ping on warm days. Which to me makes sense as the EGR's job is to feed exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber and somewhat reduce the amount of "explosion" by introducing inert gases at those light throttle conditions. And lets not forget that the NA engine has a higher comp ratio than the TT at those light cruise conditions. I tried changing every bloody sensor, new injectors, everything! The car ran great, but would still ping. The only way I could really address the issue was to get a custom tune and get a whole heap of timing taken out of those cells where the pinging was occuring. Normally, on the NA timing map, those areas of light throttle / cruise is about 42-44 degree's timing. I had to take it down 33 degree's timing in those few cells to get rid of the pinging. The car still ran fine, because as soon as you blipped the throttle or accelerated, you would be out of those cells. But yeah, that was my only solution. If after you've checked everything, and nothing solves the problem. Firstly check if your EGR is working properley and then investigate getting a custom tune to address those areas where its pinging.
No... Unfortuneatly, to get the DEt sensor stock location you also have to remove the lower plenum, which requires removal or at least dissasembly of the timing belt components. Its a much bigger job than just a plenum pull. It would be best to do if you were doing a plenum pull AND a timing belt change.
Thanks Mark! Well I better still do the ol' check all the sensors first... I'm not due for a new timing belt so ill leave that job of the det sensor till later... Unless it is at fault! I still have all the stock tubes and gizmos under plenum so I can almost rule that out unless they are working correctly lol
Oh, lordy. My detonation sensor is currently bypassed as it was giving a code 34 and limping everything. I bypassed it prior to the pinging noise. The car only pings when the engine is fully warm. I thought it had something to do with the new oxygen sensor that was put in before the detonation started. Disconnecting the O2s makes no difference at all though. I did some self vac leak testing by inhaling a cigar, and then blowing softly into a vac line connected to the balance tube and I did notice all the smoke was coming out under/near the IACV (not the IACV itself as I checked and replaced the gasket) so I think that may be contributing to a lean condition. I found a thread on Nicoclub where someone reported that they had a vac leak in the same area ( http://forums.nicoclub.com/vacuum-leak-help-t411008.html ) and it was in fact the leaking out the underside of their VCT solenoid. I guess pulling the plenum would be the only way of getting better access (this may be the cause of my pinging condition)
Those were the days Col... Thankfully the TT has displayed no such annoyances and I intend to keep it that way
haha yeah good point, and only up to a certain TPS as well? Still very important if ever cruising within closed loop, ie under 3000rpm.
