Hi All, its been 1 months since i got my car back from spray painters for my front bar & nose and its already peeling. Is this normal ? its a Urethane bar umm what else before painted never peeled like this at this location even while scraping. and the red line on the yellow is speed lines (lol no mechanic hit hoist) but still was peeling before he hit it. Called painters and they say normal (called 2 places) asked about rubber type paint and they said no such thing. will always peel but i said old one never did and they said oem is better pain yet my other bar was not oem paint. so need help please. thanx in advanced (damn will things get easier with my zed )
No Peel! You've been Lied to! Paint should definitely not be doing that on a Urethane bar. Take it back to where you got it painted and show them what is happening. Be calm and stay cool. Was it them who hit the hoist or someone else... it may be hard if it was someone else. Definitely shouldn't be peeling though.
Newly painted bar?? Take it back and show them what is happening - surely thy have some time frame of age before it starts to do that..... work must be guaranteed....
painting on plastic is never fun when the plastic flex's... take it back and talk to them.. but if you hit something after it was painted then its your fault not theres...
Whether you have hit something is not really the point here, paint shouldn't peel off in sheets. My Urethane bar has been painted for years now and yes I have bent it a few times but it doesnt peel off brittle like that!
When ever you paint plastic parts or SMC products... You must use EPOXY 2 pack or it will not stick... I paint SMC jetskis and plastic hoods and other parts... Ask them first what product they used to paint... Standard paints will fall off in large chunks...if epoxy was used it would only scratch... if you hit something... Chook
Yeah, that's bullshit m8, get them to redo it right, they're supposed to use a flex agent in the paint when painting bumpers and stuff to prevent it flaking and cracking off like yours seem to be doing... they probably got an apprentice to do your bar
2nd, the reason its coming off is either because it was a shit of a job or they have used the wrong paint.....take it back, i wouldnt be very happy if i were you
So what is the correct procedure for respraying urethane parts? I will need to find someone to do a rear bar for me at some stage soon and want to make sure they get it right.
looking closely you can see that you have been hitting the bottom of the bar on the road/humps etc. Because the plastic bars like to flex so much the paint has no choice but to start cracking and peeling.
This info may help you This is what I use and do when Painting Urethane PHP: Urethane components require a special cleaning and painting procedure to obtain a proper finish. Once the urethane components have been properly pre-fitted CLEAN AND SCRUB THEM! Using plenty of hot water, plenty of scouring powder (like AJAX or COMET) and a #7447 Scotch Brite pad. Scrub each piece thoroughly until there are no shiny spots. Scrub all surfaces especially the back side top sections that will be against the body. You will be applying double sided tape to this area so clean and sand it! The goal is to achieve an even dull finish on all surfaces to be painted. After you?ve finished scrubbing the parts completely repeat the procedure one more time. If this is not done properly the paint will not stick! Any automotive primer will provide excellent adhesion to the part if the surface is properly prepared, however, we do not recommend using lacquer primer on urethane components due to its rigidity. Elastomeric or acrylic primers can be used but elastomeric primers, due to the flex agent added, are preferred over acrylic primers. Light sanding is recommended after primer has dried and before final color painting. On all the Stillen aero kits the preferred procedures are: A. Pre-fit, sand, and shape. B. Paint C. Install Preparation/Method 1. PLASTOFLEX PRIMER, NOT REDUCED. 2. GREY PRIMER WITH HARDENER AND REDUCER, 20% EUROCRYL ELASTO/ACTIVE 3. GROUND COAT WITH 50% THINNER (FAST) 4. TOP COAT WITH 50% THINNER (FAST) 5. CLEAR COAT WITH 20% EUROCRYL ELASTO/ACTIVE, AND THINNER AND HARDENER
If the paint is peeling as bad as that, you will need to paint strip the whole bar to the urethane and respray bar again
But if the paint is OK it can go straight over? My rear bar is in need of replacing and I want to get another stock one to replace it but doubt I will find one in the right colour so respraying seems the only option.
major under bar scraping would appear to be the gremlin in the woodpile ... being p/c, of course ....:biggrin::biggrin:
From what I understand from reading those DIY books on spraypainting the key is in the cleaning down and adding that rubberising additive to the paint.
They have to add a flexing agent to the primer as well, alot of workshops don't think(or care) about what the job will be like in a week or a month(or year), they just want to get it out of the workshop quickly... as long as it looks good there and then...
