After few attempt with southbend clutch there is no luck. Chris replaced throwout bearing with stock carrier. Still can't engage gears when car is in idle. My suspect is stock flywheel has been machined too much. Now I am sick with taking gearbox again (Done three times already) and ordered OS Giken rebuild kit from japan with new bearing. However I need to know if I can reuse the os giken flywheel and pressure plate. My concern is the thickness once this flywheel will be machined. Anyone has any idea? Pics below...
I dont know but can only assume ? I currently have a new unused OS quad clutch and assumed the rebuild kits would be straight forward drop in. I didnt think about flywheel machining. The flywheel does not look to be easily accessable to have machined. What type is your gikken. 2,3 or 4 plate ? I did a little research on the rebuild prices on the net but that's about it. Maybe some instructions for flywheel prep will be inside your rebuild kits postal box. Or you could shoot OS a email.
With OS Giken multi plate clutches the flywheel comes as part of the kit, I'm unsure about OS Giken single plate clutches
Just make the rod that pushes the clutch longer. did you check your pedal is adjusted. I think its strange you cant disengage your clutch.
Agreed, very odd. Should have enough adjustment in it to suit however much you pull off the fly. I made a longer pushrod for my slave on the V8 as I had to make up ~10mm, worked well.
Correct. First mistake: Wrong Carrier 2nd mistake. Correct Carrier but bearing was not pushed all the way. 3rd Mistake. Unknown: Chris did the setup. Now unable to change gear. Also car is vibrating when idle. Now I am moving back to old setup with OS giken rebuild kit. Gearbox has to come out 4th time. within a week. Email received from Ben @ Otomoto and he said to machine the surface 0.5mm or less. Also machine the top edge of the housing (indicated in the picture) is machined by the same amount so the tolerances will be correct.
I said this before. Are you sure the fork isnt bent ?? I wouldnt use the Giken fly and I doubt the OEM fly is screwed enough you have NO clutch at all. I have made longer slave push rods before, BUT you lose a lot throw doing this and the pedal feels very weird. This should be fixed correctly. You just have to find out WHY its screwed
With high end clutches, the relationship between the clutch cover installed height and the clutch pack thickness is crucial to, a: having any pedal at all and b: having correct clamp pressure. That flywheel face looks in perfect condition and I see no reason to have it machined. Now, Im having trouble getting my head around why the clutch diaphragm fingers are pointing INWARDS in the top pix when there is no clutch pack fitted??? Its just sitting on the flywheel right? "If" the clutch pack/installed cover height relationship was incorrect, (clutch pack too thick) Id expect to see the diaphragm "overcentered" and pointing inwards like that and requiring a long pedal to release. Am I missing something here with that particular pressure plate??????? It looks like a puller release type to me lol! The car vibrating at idle is a real worry and something is very amiss with the setup. Cheers E
Relax, this clutch and flywheel was working perfectly. I just left pressure plate upside down for purpose of taking photo. This clutch worked perfectly. Only reason I wanted to go for southbend and stock flywheel to save some money and bit different torque.
Fork hasn't bent. Perfect condition. Chris has checked already. Longer salve push rod is not a drama which can be sorted. But I am more worried why car is vibrating in idle with this new clutch. There is something wrong with the flywheel and definately not machined correctly. I had enough and want to go back exactly what I had before with new rebuild kit. Then I will take flywheel and clutch to a proper clutch shop to find out what went wrong.
Yer, i thought i was missing something!! At first glance there looked to be something funky going on. L8r E
When my OS Giken started slipping - bought the full rebuild kit, not worth mucking around with only bits as its a bit of pain to pull the gearbox. We compared the two (worn and new) and by eye was not able to tell the difference enough. With an OS Giken they work fine till they hit a level of wear and then its all over. You may find the bits you do not replace may be very near their wear level. I replaced all for peice of mind. As you are probably finding out trying to save a couple bucks here and there is really costing you in the long run. Do it once and do it right. I have driven and owned a lot of twin plates, OS Giken, ORC, RPS etc For the race car the twin plate OS is the best of the lot. For the street car use the SZ carbon-carbon but probably could have paid a lot less and used the OS. However the first few drives with the fresh OS were a bit grabby but settled down right away.
When I rebuilt the Ogura clutch I have. They actually have wear limts with all the plate thicknesses on the web site, So it was quite easy to figure out what was screwed and what was not. I only had to buy a centre wear plate as the old one was dished. Clutch plates where almost new thickness. I was pretty lucky with this buy.
