For those with accurate oil temp guages, what temps are you seeing this summer in normal traffic, and if you've been tracking it.
Mine runs between 65 & 80C..... depending if I'm "up it" or not, BUT it's never been in traffic in its life & doesn't see the track so I can't help you there.
ok, my oil is getting far hotter than that I'm consistently hitting 105+ in traffic. Need to upgrade the cooler I think.
Hey Andy, mine sees about 95 in traffic in hot weather and when i'm going hard through the twisties about 110-115. Plan to install a second oil cooler soon and see if it drops them down a bit.
Oil temp is very dependent on oil quality, viscosity and additives. Also engine condition will have great effects on oil temps. 105*c is nothing worth bothering with, oil temps over 123*c will give you issues. A built motor with large full flow cooler will see oil temps in the range of 110-115*c.
Castrol R Synthetic 10W/40. Engine has been built and it's flowing a few more ponies. But the oil cooler is stock, so I plan to upgrade that shortly. It's only a concern as it pulls my coolant temp up with it. Once my oil temp hits 105 I struggle to keep my coolant below 95. In christmas traffic in Sydney, in 35deg+ it was midly concerning.
Go with a full flow cooler, -10an lines and fittings, relocate it to the side or elsewhere so its not in front of the radiator. Personally I would be running a 20/50 weight oil with alot higher zinc content than the castrol, its a good oil, but not right in our summers in a zed engine bay.
Normal use For me is water temp 84, oil temp 100 On the track oil temp can get as high as 115, large aftermarket cooler is a must, stock one wont cut it, I use good oils and fluids, both changed at regular intervals depending on what the car has been doing. Engine airflow is another important factor in keeping temps low, whether by vented nose panels and or bonnet etc.
I find 325 degrees F about right. Only use 100% synthetic oil and check your PTU ! Oil volume is critical. MMMMM XMAS turkey Bon Appetit !
Turkey power Seen plenty of horsepower hanging off a engine crane before, think thats the first time for a turkey.
Stock cooler is only a bypass cooler, it cools 4/5ths of sfa oil. Use a proper remote oil cooler set up with a thermostat.
Ok, You mentioned Castrol R is not an ideal summer oil...would you have a recomendation of a better suited oil? I use ELF semi-syn usually, but throught I'd try the Castrol R this time.
Pretty much any SL certified oil in a 20-50 weight. Look for an oil with a zinc content in the region of 0.1+ ppm. Hydrocracked oil is also the way to go, much more refined base product that needs no where near the additives of a normal base oil. SM certified oils are made for a lower emissions output, hence have very minimal zinc. Zinc reduces friction, lower friction reduces heat. I use and recommend Kendall GT1. On a side note, where the packaging says meets or exceeds SL or SM or whatever it is, basically means the oil has not been tested by the ASI to guarantee its quality, of all the oil brands out there, only about 25% are actually certified. Big deal you say, the thing with being certified means that oil is randomly sampled at the retailer several times a year, so if it not up to certified standard, it fails to be recognized by the ASI. Just some food for thought.
My oil temps are usually very smiliar to Wizards. Depending on water temp, my oil temps sits in the mid to high 90's and up to 115 when under the pump. 105 in traffic during summer does not sound unusual Andy, especially with your thermo setup. Also I think Ports got his figures mixed up, being 91 water and 96 oil although I would expect if water is that hot then oil will be a lot hotter.
Courtesy of Conoco Phillips / Kendall website: GT-1 High Performance with Liquid Titanium, SAE 20W-50, also contains a boosted level of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) additive to provide additional wear protection and enhanced oxidation resistance for use in the most demanding applications. It is particularly recommended for use in turbocharged engines and in high-performance engines with flat-tappet camshafts, especially during the critical break-in period.
