I have a new OPs on the shelf (been there for a long time :bash and I have finally got a round tuit. Here's the problem. The workshop manual I have says the resistance of this unit unpressured should be greater than 83 ohms, but mine measures 7.8 ohms. While I would be surprised if a brand new unit would be faulty, I don't want to go to the trouble of changing them over if it is. The job is a PITA. I would rather believe the manual is wrong. Anybody out there have a known working one on their bench they could test to give me a camparison figure?
sorry cant help with the specifications but this job is pretty simple man. i just changed mine over last week and took hardly no time... the hardest part is just cracking loose the one already there, just use a massive screwdriver and lever it off something solid on the spaner..... then just unscrew with ur hand.... putting on is simple aswell...
Thanks Bryan - maybe the decimal point has disappeared from the Workshop manual and the right value is 8.3 ohms :biggrin: Actually it is not the getting under and doing it that bothers me, it is all the trouble it takes to get it off the ground high enough for my ample frame to slither under. It is lowered 30mm and I have to use use blocks of wood, axle stands and jacks and lift it in stages. One of these days I will make some special extensions to my useless car ramps.
A-B .. just do the ramp extensions ... a half hour job, max ... if BAZ can do, anyone can do .. lol... down to bunnings ..two of the treated pine sleepers ( the larger ones ) .. taper off the ends that contact the driveway for a smooth roll on ( around 45 degrees ..??) ... .. then to sit the sleeper on the ramps .. from the underside of each sleeper, cut out a "U" about 1/2 deep and 1 inch wide .. the sleeper can then sit securely on whatever level (cross bar) of your ramp that you choose .... tres simple, monsieur ... vraiment ....
The other solution for the ramps, Barry, is to use a trolley-jack to lift the end of the car you want on the ramps, then push the ramps under the wheels. Drive on the the top level from there.
Just put that "ample frame" to good use, Bazza me Angry Bear... lift the bloody car with one arm and slide each ramp under with the other....
Mike, I am afraid the ample frame is not in the biceps, pectorals. lats and deltoids areas, it a bit further South than that .. but thanks for the thought.
Interesting approach Doug, but in my case I have to drive the car onto a couple of wooden blocks in order to get the jack under. It should still work though.
You are out in the sticks Barry so there should be plenty of timber around. Just make your own pre-ramp from some 8x2. Build it up slowly 1,2,3 pieces or how many you need to get onto the real ramp. (You can get onto a 2" thick plank can't you ?)
Oh Stef, you are sending me up aren't you? Seeing all building materials were converted to metric measures from 1966, I can't see the point of using some 8cm x 2 cm timber. Thats a floor board - almost ! My local Bunnigs has 200mm x 50mm sleepers - I'll try some of that.
With all that vacant land, why not drop a cool $2-3000 on a four poster hoist, and then not only will you be able to work in comfort(as is befitting a gentleman of your breeding)but you will also attract countless sniveling serfs(who may be pressed into servitude as cheap labour).:zlove::zlove::zlove:
I know this thread is starting to get a bit silly....but then Ye Olde Zed Shoppe has a nice ring to it. I could get myself a Lord of the Manor costume and have plenty of serfs outfits available for the lesser mortals. I will need a set of stocks as well. Now I wonder who will be first to road test them? Now to look up buxom serving wenches in the Yellow Pages.
If you get a hoist then keep it a secret! Never tell a soul! You'll have more mates than you people you have met...
Back on topic. I have finished it. You were all correct, not too hard at all, once the Zed is far enough off the ground. However, the shortened 17mm spanner recommended in the tech section would have been very helpful. Should I make myself one for next time? Working it out, the first OPS lasted 20 years, so maybe the new one will last as long. Will I still be able to crawl under the Zed at the age of 81. Hmmm - not sure. One last thing, I have this multi LED worklight that has a magnetic back to stick to metalwork, so you can set it up to work hands free. So here I am working away under the car when I suddenly realised the light is sticking to my stainless steel exhaust system! How can that be, or in the shorter version WTF? I thought stainless steel was non magnetic. The pipes look like stainless, not chrome, but maybe they are not. Any ideas?
