haha well now I know 1 My standard procedure at the track; When I arrive in the morning, idle the engine up to 70degC coolant temp. That's my initial warm up for the day. Before going out on track, start the engine and let it idle for maybe 2mins while I'm getting organised in the car. Pit lane engine speed is around 2000rpm for maybe I guess 30secs. By the time I leave pit lane I can't imagine the coolant temps (and therefore oil temps) would be anywhere below 60degs, hence why I've never paid any attention to how 'cool' the oil temp is. For a full race engine with minimal clearances though I can appreciate all this stuff is much more critical. For me I'll be racing on the original stock engine lol!
LOL Firstly, full race engines are run with quite wide clearances!!!!!!!!!!! The warmup on idle thing is actually more destructive than driving!!!!! For a startup procedure from cold with a view to warming up, Id start it ONLY at idle till full oil pressure shows then hold engine revs up around 2500 to 3000 grand and keep it there. Same for pre-race. Keep revs up at it and PROMOTE heat!!!! Idling to warm up a road car is a complete and pointless WOFTAM that actually wastes fuel AND promotes engine wear! The wear going on in a cold engine has little, if anything to do with temps, oil or lack of it but to do with circulation of corrosive acids that form as a byproduct of moisture, combustion gasses and unburnt fuel, all of which are unavoidable. The faster the oil is heated, the less time the moisture has time to react with the other baddies in there to form acids. So ultimately, drive your engine dead cold to REDUCE wear!!!! Anti and Blackie are right on the money by utilising thermostatted oil cooling systems. Think about it. The STOCK oil cooler will most likely be cooling the oil at cold!!! Not too many engines here would see LESS than 50psi cold on idle so bypassed oil ius actually being passed thru the cooler... that just great eh? The idea of fitting a shuttle valve to manualise the oil cooling process is a little strange in the 21st century! Id liken that to removing the thermostat from the water cooling system and then fitting a stopcock on the dash so i can control temps along the way!!!!!!! This kind of task has been automated with thermostats for many years!!!!!!!! Why go back half a century and make the task manual??????? E
Well I guess my engine's gonna blow up next time I'm at the track Not disputing what you're saying but I don't think it's anywhere near as critical as everyone seems to make out.
Idjitt!!!! Well, closely follow the technical side of race teams, say NASCAR. The maintenance of high oil and water temps, and within a very narrow temp range is CRUCIAL. To the point where teams will tape up air ducts to maintain high temps. These guys employ the best of the best engine builders using the creme of the engine goodies crop! Of course, these are big-arsed bent 8 engines turning sustained 9500rpm with big bearing journal diameters with the highest quality lubricants available but the point is made that oil temps are reasonably critical when they are actually asked to do their job. Newhoo, in the long term, there are many more pluss's to controlling oil temps than minus's! E
Ah Tas, I was just thinking this morning how we got through all that without anyone being called names. I've made it pretty clear why I think a manual valve would suit me better than one that is operated by a thermostat, the thermostat fitted does not do it's job with 100% efficacy and there is a pretty clear divide between when I need the cooler and when I don't, not like I'll be getting out of the car at the traffic lights to turn it on and off. Only problem with a ball valve is that there are ways for it to malfunction and block off the lines forcing oil through the filter bypass valves but that can be protected against with reasonable confidence. I would have thought you'd be in favor of using a simpler component if it does the job appropriately.
Pfffffff!!!!! Idjitt x 2 Tom, Im hoping your recognising some banter between 2 blokes that have known one another for a long time and are joining in the frivolities. If not......Stiff scata! Dude, if you want to fit a crank handle to the front of your car because thats all you need to get it running because. its simple, enables you to use a capacitor as a "battery" and foolproof then go right ahead!!!!! E
why the NA tree? Does it have an internal pressure relief valve? Pretty sure I got it wrong and I have the same -10 GReddy plate as you.
Both na and TT trees have relief valves ..its the US that has different varients . NA tree is simpler and neater Besides Doesnt the TT tree only flow after 50 psi ? Been a while since my set up happy to be corrected . .
every engine has an oil pressure relief valve otherwise oil pressure would be totally unregulated. oil will just be returned back to the sump instead of going into the high pressure oil galleries
There are three pressure valves in a TT system, an over-pressure valve in the pump housing that returns to the sump, a relief valve that lets some flow over 50psi be diverted through the cooler system and a pair of little check valves in the filter fitting that allow the oil to circulate unfiltered if there is pressure drop across the filter. I haven't seen official figures for the over-pressure or filter bypass valves but the over-pressure seems to be somewhere around the 90-100psi area based on my peak pressures (no idea how reasonable or accurate that is though) and filter bypass valves are generally set to somewhere between 5-15psi pressure drop. The NA just has the over-pressure in the pump and the filter bypass, the pump valve is reported to have a lower pressure in the NA but having run both I'm not noticing a big difference. JDM engines have the filter bypass in the same place as Beast said, USDM NA engines have them in the block though.
Well if you guys are mates it's ok then, sorry for interrupting If the Z had fewer cylinders and maybe 2.5:1 compression ratio plus enough room to swing a crank handle I might go with that but it wouldn't work very well with my current set up.
Black Beast, what peak oil pressures are you seeing at WOT full revs? And how much fluctuation off throttle, round corners on and off throttle?
I have high oil pressures. Idle Cold start up its 120psi Hot goes down to 40 -45psi Guage Revs like a tacho to 110-120 psi At 4500rpm its already around 90 -100psi .
wow that is very high compared to stock. Where is your pressure sendor reading from? So I'm guessing if idle hot is 40psi, you'd rarely if ever be under 50psi on track?
