Oh No!!! Breakdown/Engine Check Light

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Enigma, Nov 19, 2010.

  1. Enigma

    Enigma Ace Mason

    So I'm picking the missus up from work yesterday and I'm getting an ambient temp reading of 42. I'm on the Roe highway sitting at a red light and as it turns green I start driving and notice the temp gauge going up. before I had a chance to do anything the car just died. and the engine check light came on. I did the smart thing and got a tow home. I haven't been brave enough to try and start the car again as I don't want to risk damage to the engine. I cant find anything on the Tech Page about what this could be and the strangest thing is there was no bang or steam or oil or anything when I broke down. Everything seems intact and there are no noticeable leaks or damage in the engine bay. Can someone please steer me in the right direction?

    Cheers
     
  2. Jinxed

    Jinxed Moderator

    sounds like it stalled, the check engine light would have come on becasue the key was in the running position, but car is not running.

    the extreme heat may well have caused a hse to expand further than normal, causing a boost/vac leak that is not normally there under cooler operating conditions.
     
  3. gargoyle

    gargoyle New Member

    I'm starting to wonder if you have a sensor problem or the thermostate is stuck.
    You've had this problem for some time now and you have a good radiator. Over heating can't be too many things wrong. But having said that, it is a zed, a car of mystery.
    Are you a member of the RAC? I just get them around and they tell me what's wrong.
    So far in 8 months I've had 3 tows and 4 call outs. Good value.
     
  4. SSAAMMEERR

    SSAAMMEERR Member

    Far out man that sucks but like John said there isn't a lot involved in a cooling system. Try running the car's own error code reader, might lead to something :(

    Good luck
     
  5. Enigma

    Enigma Ace Mason

    Yeah I'm a RAC member, and yes it has already paid for itself in tows. I just did an ecu diagnostic and I got 2 error codes. the first was - 13: Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit - the connector housing is at 0% durability LMAO. I have done a temp fix on it and that error code is gone. the second was - 21: Ignition Signal Circuit - again it was a bad connection probably me bumping things as I was reinstalling my gauges now that I made it through the pits woo hoo! I now have the dreaded code - 55: No fault found - and the engine check light is gone. The car has now sat for the night and is as cool as it will ever get. Now that all seems well, here is the big question - Do I try and start the car? I'm so scared as I have spent so much to get the internals up to scratch and I cant afford a fix any time soon. So what do you guys think? I'm sitting here going stir crazy LMAO
     
  6. Jinxed

    Jinxed Moderator

    yup, start that zed up......

    to the gurus out there, isnt the ignition circuit fault the one for a series 1 ptu?
     
  7. ezzupturbo

    ezzupturbo JDMAutomotive

    s1 ptu probably failing due to extreme heat. which could of caused it to stall.
     
  8. RBZ 260

    RBZ 260 Z nutcase

    So u haven't lost any coolant or engine overheated? if not sounds like dodgey connection to temp sensor.

    have u got ecutalk or conzult? if u do, hook that up or observe if u have the ecu talk display. start the engine. observe the temperature reading let it idle for few minutes. if temp seems to be stable after 10-15min looks like ur problem was the plug that u already fixed.

    but if u notice the temp rising over 95 start cooling it down like described in tech section.

    i had a strange case that appeared on 98 patrol. temp rose suddenly and ecu engine light poped up. but this one lost its coolant through overflow bottle.
    car drove from Melb to Adelaide 720km with no issues and suddenly died 30km to destination.took me a while to figure it out and no wasn't, headgasket or the pump. thermostat decided to snap and shut it self closed.
     
  9. Enigma

    Enigma Ace Mason

    PTU

    Yeah but last Sunday on Tech day, Dave installed a S2 PTU for me coz he's a champion ;) Thanks Dave. Thing is though, the PTU is mounted on the timing belt cover and it can get pretty hot in that location I wonder if the S2 is prone to fail under extreme heat conditions. I say this coz I notice most ppl mount there PTU closer to the air filter where its a lot cooler. I'll go try and start her up and see what happens. I'll post and update in a few minutes.

    Cheers again guys, I think this one might be nailed. Fingers crossed :zlove:
     
  10. Enigma

    Enigma Ace Mason

    Yep there is absolutely no coolant loss. I have fixed that too. One other minor thing I forgot to mention... Actually it may be a major thing and I say this before I try to start the car. When I broke down and the check engine light came on, the oil pressure dropped to 0. Now that I have rectified the error codes the oil pressure is still 0. I started the car and the oil pressure went just above 4 but the car is cold so I think this is fine. seems to idle fine, sounds and looks good. I'll take it for a light drive but I think its all good now guys :D
     
  11. Mitch

    Mitch Has one gear: GO

    Oil pressure will always be zero when the engine is not running (oil pump is not operating).
     
  12. michandy

    michandy Active Member

    Common problem

    you have the common problem that most zed owners get. You have just finnished working on the zed and gotten it on the road, and every little squeek, rattle, stall, loose conection or any other minor thing that goes wrong you worry like crazy about because like the rest of us, you are parranoid about something major going wrong :eek::eek::eek:.
    I'm still worrying about mine and I did the transplant 12 months ago :eek:
    Good luck with getting over this cos it takes a while :rolleyes:
    Andy :zlove: :br:
     
  13. airstyle

    airstyle Z Anarchist

    If he visibly saw his temp gauge go up then it's not the CTS. The CTS reports to the ECU, there's a separate sensor (next to the CTS) that sends a temp to the gauge.

     
  14. OZX_320

    OZX_320 Detachable Member

    What condition is your clutch fan in? Effectively a huge, but noticeably a small difference between an apparently and properly working unit. Am up to my 3rd attempt on my NA (had a few spare). The rest of the cooling system has been replaced.
    With the weather starting to warm up a bit, there will be more and more overheating related threads. At least you did the right thing, went on the side of caution and had your car towed. Invest in a decent temp gauge, or an ECUtalk for accurate temperature readings. Dont put false trust in the factory temp gauge.
     
  15. Jinxed

    Jinxed Moderator

    thread hijack, i have a spare clutch fan for any member who may need it........
     
  16. Enigma

    Enigma Ace Mason

    Yep I need one. I think this has been the sorce of my trouble. I also have a problem with the auxiliary fan running constantly, whether the car is cold or hot, when I turn the key to the on position but without the engine running the fan always comes on. Any ideas? would this be related to a faulty clutch fan?
     
  17. zed4life (zedcare.com)

    zed4life (zedcare.com) Ω vicarious zedder Ω

    aux fan will come on with CTS related issues

    (code 13) OR the engine temp is exceeding 100deg.

    Replace the viscous clutch fan as a start...

     
  18. TWIN TERROR

    TWIN TERROR Well-Known Member

    When i had a coolant temp sensor fault my fan would run. I did not relise it until i put in new sensors and it stoped.
     
  19. geron

    geron National Petroleum Equipm

    good time to fit a TWD...

    the Temperature Warning Devise is the best thing you can install on a Z32. And I say the Z32 because killing an engine on these cars is not a cheap exercise.
     

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