Can't find any tech articles on replacing these little suckers. Anyone got any easy ways of getting them out? Someone told me you just gotta bash em out and destroy them. I'm hoping someone has a neat little trick. Cheers, Will
i used the bash method used a long round bar to smash the top of the sensor off, leaving only the build that is screwed into the manifold behind. then using a socket wrench and alot of extensions you can quite easily remove the final piece. then just screw the new bit in good luck
Kincrome sell a O2 sensor socket It has a gap in the side to allow the electrical connector to come out the side and not get damaged... Part No. 08084
You have a manual TT - the most difficult to replace RHS sensor. It is most difficult because you also have clutch master cylinder in the way. Firstly, with motor cold, saturate both old O2 sensors with WD40 or equivalent, and unplug them (plugs are each side of the throttle-bodies). LHS sensor is easily got at by removing the battery. Then knock the top off the sensor (I used a crowbar) and remove sensor with a 22 mm socket. New sensor is easily fitted and can be tightened with a 22 mm open-ended spanner. Now the driver's side. Either knock off the top using a bar and mallet (or equivalent) and remove with a 22mm socket using appropriate extension bars and uni-joint (uni-joint can be made more rigid by taping up with electrical tape) or use kingchrome special tool. Then feed new sensor into position using the wiring. You can start to get it threaded by rotating the wiring, or if you have long thin hands and fingers, from underneath the car. (You should therefore have car on jackstands if doing it this way.) Use Kingchrome special tool with appropriate extensions and uni joint to tighten. Reconnect sensors. btw, do not touch the sensor end with your fingers. These have plastic plugs on them, that have to be removed before fitting. Good luck. Cheers, Peter
Re: You have a manual TT - the most difficult to replace RHS sensor. I finally bought a proper socket the other day after bashing the top off countless sensors. It was $12.50 :thumbsup: Should have bought it 12 months ago. :LOL:
Good advice >>> Minor detail, old OEM sensors are 19mm and a long socket removes them once top is chopped off, new NTK NGK ones are 22mm. To nip up new O2's, I spent a whopping $1 on a 20mm open-ender from Bunnings, ground it out to 22mm & lopped/bent the shaft to fit in engine-bay. Tekky... is your tool 19mm or 22mm?
Curious? Do you also use your $1 special tool on the RHS O2 to tighten? If so, is this from above engine or below ? - Just can't see how you could get anything other than hands into this area from below and from the top it's too far down into the bay to firstly get a spanner on it and then tighten it. Just curious. Cheers, Peter
Yes, from above Peter. Easier on an auto, but ok on manual, depends on angle of bend/length of modded tool. It's a case of too long is not always best.
So, presumably, someone below locates the cut-off spanner and someone above whacks it with a bar and mallet - tough way. I gotta say I prefer the Kingchrome solution, where at least you turn rather than bash to turn. Or am I missing something?? Cheers, Peter
Hi Pete >> If you remember at the Canberra Tech Day, John replaced my RH sensor, easier than the LH one. He had the special tool that you speak of, & done it from the top in under 20mins.:thumbsup: Mind you he had Chino start the thread for him. I had no show, as my hands are way to big to fit in there. CHeers Kerry
wd 40 or innox .. plus a 600ml extension bar to get to the little mothers much easier to access .. but like the old ky trick ..heaps of innox before the big event.. ...:thumbsup: edit: .. cnsZ .. i have done a rather long, unrefined article on o2 sensor r/r and have sent this to a number of forum members by pm .. they seem to have found it of some use ... you are welcome to it if you think that it might help .. given time, it will be brushed up for a possible tech article ...b/baz.
