well i just bought a 300zx twin turbo afew days ago its done 140 000 klms car runs great but the clutch was weak so the clutch died on me and now the car dont move at all....i was wondering after i get the clutch fixed what should i do to make sure everything in the zx is running smoothly and great......like what do i need to get surviced its imported from japan so i cant understand the writing.. and if i wanna buy the car 2 difrent turbos what else do i need to modify so i can get the best out of the 300zx? and how much would a 3'' exhuast all the way through for a twin turbo coasts? and should i buy boost jets? and how can i chek the hicas oil and if the hicas is running good? i been a commodore fan for along time but after my first drive on the 300zx i can clearly say its love in the first drive LOL. so can every 300zx fan and owner here help me with what i need to do and check so i can make sure my babys running gooood? thanks to who ever thats willing to help me. oh and dont give me lecture for my spelling or english please i know im not the best..lol
Suggest you put on a BBQ and a carton of amber and invite the ACT zedders over. Then while they're there have them check out your new baby. p.s. Clutch cost me about $900 including labour. Not sure what the parts alone would be if you did it yourself. Ask the guys when they come over. Never know someone might offer to help you do it!!!
clutches for these cars are expensive. my jaw dropped when i saw the price compaired to what i paid for a custom one for one of my other cars. I got a good mech i can put you in contact with about fitting. HiCAS oil is just from the powersteering. if its full, the rest of the system will be ok. not sure what you mean about boost jets? PM me if you want the number, quite a few of the ACT members use him too.
while the clutch is being replaced, get the rear main done (search it). i think there are a couple more seals to do including the rear main? 100k or 200k service kit + plenum pull (search that for a list of parts) you mean upgrade the turbos? unless you are going big front mounts for a drag racing motor, your best bet is high flow them with gt28 cores, but with that you will need dumps, injectors, intercooler etc... replacing the turbos is an engine-out job far as i've heard. you mean turbo-back? you need a set of dumps, then your cost will depend on whether you go single or twin. twin 3" is too big for anything less than 500rwhp IMO. search the threads get a good boost controller instead? (manual or electronic) search the tech section or the forum:bash: :rofl: of course as long as you help yourself first by searching the forum before you ask FAQs. [TIS] so mods, how about an FAQ section?
You'll soon find owning a 300ZX is a VERY different experience to a Commodore, (aka Commonwhore). Be prepared to fork out big, few thou, to get it up to scratch if you paid less than $10k for it. A quote I love: She is not your car, You are her human. Learn your place. :rofl: As for your spelling and punctuation is sorta fine, what I didn't like was how rambled. Like I think someone already pointed out... do you want to upgrade your turbos? If so, yea, 'big' job that one, both time, effort and money. Also, what exactly is wrong with your clutch, you never really said your problem, does it slip? does it not disengage properly? does make weird noises? 3in exhaust unless done properly, see not cheaply, will be expensive, in the neighborhood of 1500-2000 with decent mufflers, dumps and cats. But again, pointless unless you're running ridiculous power, money would be best spent elsewhere. Boostjets, honestly a dodgy way of increasing boost, pay a few bucks extra and get atleast some MBC's (manual boost controllers), can pick up some MBC's for about 20-40 each. Word of caution, do not pass 12 PSI if most of the car is stock, ie stock Intercoolers, Engine Internals, Turbos, Exhaust, Injectors. Little bit of advise... guys on these forums love to jump people for not searching about commonly asked questions, learn the search function and do some reading, you'll find a lot of questions have been asked before, this forum has been around for YEARS. MoulaZX
Simple thing is treat the car well. It is a costly piece of equipment to maintain if you get sloppy. ALWAYS use 98 octane petrol never skimp on anything less. And just like other cars service the oil and keep the radiator up. these cars are known for over heating. If you notice the radiator is playing up change it or look into it asap. saves the mess later on. if you sometimes get a bad start and the the z will not start and feels like the car is flooded have a look at your oxygen sensors they play up a bit. Apart from that enjoy and keep it clean. If you ever have to change any parts in the engine bay get your mechanic to change any brittle hoses while he/she are there. And do a research on the 200k service.
Are you saying Nissan designed it wrong at the start? Cause it only ever had boost jets to regulate boost from new. Nissan may have been cheap asses doing that, but its NOT dodgy, just not the best.
Dodgy as in compared to the other options available. I know there are boostjets already in the system... MoulaZX
Boost jets... its a single restrictor in each side, the boost solenoids do the actual bleeding off pressure. I agree that shoving welding tips in the line IS dodgy, a mbc would be much better without bleeding off any boost.
The stock system has boost solenoids AND boostjets. I've seen them both. Boost solenoid is only for safety boost. MoulaZX
Sorry NO, The soleniods are for putting the car in safety boost. They bypass the stock boost jets. Putting welding tips in the hoses is no more dodgy than the stock system.
Yes I know stock uses both Your wrong, the boost solenoids must be ACTIVE ie, 12v applied for normal 9psi. When they're off you have safety boost. Wrong again, the boost solenoids keep the car from going into safety boost. When they're off and the only restriction is your welding tip or boost.. jet.. the waste gate actuator sees more pressure because the solenoid is off and you get your factory wastegate opening at around 6psi.
http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/factory_jets/factory_jets.htm Isn't that saying the opposite to what you're describing...? Further more, I never once implied how either component does its task, just that there indeed were boostjets already installed in the system and boost solenoids were responsible for safety boost. Again, I only made the reference to boostjets being dodgy because compared to the other options there is no contest. An MBC would be more effective (atleast you could occasionally change the boost relatively easily to boostjets, and still cost wise very competitive) and EBC would be best in the long run. No idea why you suddenly took it upon yourself to start posting corrections to something that was never posted. MoulaZX
No that site supports exactly what I'm saying. :rofl: The solenoids bleed pressure on purpose so your waste gate actuator stays shut which is how you get your 9psi. Of course I agree about the mbc and ebc I already said that. The stock setup is a form of ebc the factory restictor is just to control exactly how much is bled off.
I'm in your shoes! Just got one myself and know where your coming from. I took mine to an expert as these toys are complicated. Tom from PZP here in Perth went over it like a rash and made a list of things to be done to bring it up to tip top nick mechanicaly. Be prepared to spend up big if your going this way. I was going to get a girlfriend but decided on a Z instead, can't afford both!
LOL LMAO ahahahahaha shit i know what you mean ahahahahaha my girlfreind is jalous of how much money i spend on my cars ahahahahhahahaha its some hard budgeting to keep them both happy LMAO
