Non turbo electric fan conversion

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Instamatic, Jul 29, 2011.

  1. Instamatic

    Instamatic Active Member

  2. a2zed

    a2zed Guest

    Correct, j30 they are.
     
  3. Instamatic

    Instamatic Active Member

    Thanks!
     
  4. danrody

    danrody New Member

    I have an electric fan I just took off my NA, its made to fit perfectly on the radiator and at the moment its just sitting in the shed. Only changed it because i bought the car with it but wanted the stock set up. If you're interested in checking and buying it send me a PM, might save you some $$$.
     
  5. MARCELLO

    MARCELLO New Member

    Hi Mate, I went through this exercise with a electric fan installed by Nissan dealer. did not work properly, engine running hot all the time. I just changed back to the original one.
    Save your self money and headache.
     
  6. OZX_320

    OZX_320 Detachable Member

    Thermo fans on an NA is a no drama installation. The only potential issues you will come across are:-
    1. Cheap fans (ie Supercheap). Go for a curved blade, high flow rate CFM fan.
    2. Current draw. Make sure your wiring is up to scratch, and you have properly installed fuse protection for both your fan supply and control means.
    3. Control- Steer clear of the thermo switching that involves putting a copper temp probe underneath your radiator hose. The probe can snap at the clamp pinch point, and you lose your thermos. The JAYCAR HYSTERESIS switching kit is a good bit of gear. Is a DIY solder kit, but is utilises the CTS signal (tapped in at the ECU harness), and allows you to control your thermos to the degree- temp on and temp off. A cheaper alternative, also available through Jaycar, is temp dependant resistors, available in increments of 10-degrees. Glue these to a METAL point (end tank of radiator), and at the rated temperature, they will allow ground switching for control relays. Do not ground your thermo fans through any of your control devices, install relays.

    Ideally, your setup should consist of:-
    1. Self-resetting Circuit Breakers located as close to the battery as possible for proper protection. Personally used parallel 30A
    2. Sufficiently rated cabling between the C/B's and fan Relays
    3. Dual automotive relays, located underneath the nose panel
    4. Hysteresis switching kit. Ample room beside the ECU for it to be located.
    5. Secondary Temperature monitoring- Be it via ECU talk, TWD or a quality temp gauge.
     

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