Noise lifters replacement

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Eddie, Aug 30, 2011.

  1. Eddie

    Eddie New Member

    My hydraulic lifters are starting to get noise so I'am looking at replacing them,
    seeing I'm still running standard cams I'm thinking it's a good time to replace these as well.
    The question is do I install the solid JWT race cam & lifter kit or the JWT 500 race cam and new hydraulic lifters.
    Is anyone running the solid cam & lifter kit and how do you find it as a daily drive

    Eddie
     
  2. BLACK BEAST

    BLACK BEAST SLICKTOP TT R-SPEC

    you do realise how big the jwt 500 solid cam is?...

    276 / 11mm lift

    ridiculous on a daily driver ....not too mention the amount of porting needed
     
  3. Eddie

    Eddie New Member

    Thanks for the reply mate, just asking if anyone is running these cams, when I say daily drive it's 80% 5th gear highway runs, maybe I will go the 400+ cams with Hyd lifters,
    Heads are already ported and honed with OS exhaust valves and HD springs.
    Thanks again
    Eddie
     
  4. tassuperkart

    tassuperkart Its a lie I tell you!

    Thing is m8, with cams that lively, your NEVER going to get even close to where they will begin to actually work unless you drive evrywhere in 3rd gear to place the engine into the effective area which would be around 3500rpm plus.

    Ive posted this time and again but please try and look at camshafts as a "programme" for the engine and not some magic cache of hidden horsepower secreted away in the nice and shiny carton the cam comes in.
    Thats called "Time In A Bottle" or laughing gas! Comes in a blue bottle. And THATS the only way you are going to just bolt on useable horsepower!!!!

    The cams only really "tell" the engine where in the revs to make peak torque and its all the supporting mods you put around the engine which realise that torque.
    270 + degree cams are asking the engine to think about things quite high up in the rev range which is basically useless on the highway and will requre a hell of a lot of supporting mods to realise ANY of that potential power. Just bolting them in will most likely result in a significant LOSS of power everywhere.

    For mine, id be looking at some very mild "breathing" cams and a few other breathing mods and youll end up with fundamentally a faster car out on the road than if you went wild.

    UNLESS, you just want to sit at the lights going "braaap..braaap... braappattabraaap.... braaap braaapppata ...braap"!!!!! Thats different. Altho 1500 odd buckeroonies for a lumpy idle is kinda weird!!!!!

    Anyway, my 2 bobs.

    L8r
    E
     
  5. Eddie

    Eddie New Member

    Ya mate not to interested in the [ sitting at the light thing ] or thumping the car around the streets, when I say highway runs, I drove 200ks to work Monday park it and drive back Friday then it gets parked in the shed, all the speeding and thumping gets done on the drag strip, the motor has been rebuilt with forged internals & balanced with larger turbos, Injectors & head work, 3500 to 4000rpm sounds good as my turbo's start to hit boost around 3700 to 4000rpm.
    Thanks for your input,

    Eddie
     

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