I have a noise comming from I think the transmission. Sounds like a belt slipping kind of noise and gradually gets louder as the car warms up. When I initially start the car from cold, I can't hear it. I can still select gears no prob and it will drive but I have not driven it anywhere since it started happening but will have to drive it 200mtrs to the auto trans mechanic up from my place on Friday. Fluid looks clean and is at the right level, no error code from the auto diagnostic or the ecu diagnostic. Can't see any leaks. I was planning to have the trans serviced this week anyway but this noise beat me to it. Anyone have a clue as to what it might be? I'm just trying to prepare myself (for the shock) with the dollars when I get the verdict from the transmission shop. Thanks for any help guys
Here are some suggestions Transmission Noisy, Other Than Valve Resonance Check for gear noise to verify if within normal range. Check linkage for proper adjustment, wear, or damage. Check fluid for proper level and/or contamination. If fluid level is low, add specified fluid to bring level within cross-hatched area at operating temperature. If fluid is contaminated, disassemble, clean, and service transmission, flushing torque converter and cooler. Perform Stall Test. If noise does not stop, proceed to step 7. If noise stops, proceed as follows: Run transmission in all gears and check for noise. If noise does not stop in any gear, remove speedometer gear and check for noise. If noise stops, replace speedometer gear. zSB(3,3)If noise stops in Low and R only, service forward planetary and/or one-way clutch. If noise stops in 2nd, High, and R only, service reverse planetary. If noise stops in High only, service both planetary sets. Check extension housing bushing, seal or propeller shaft. • Stall Tests This test should be performed by a shop, but if you can locate the stall speed specification, you can do it yourself. Stall speed is when the engine rpm gets as high as the transmission will let it. The stall test checks converter one-way clutch operation and installation, the holding ability of the forward clutch, reverse clutch, the low and reverse bands, the planetary one-way clutch, and engine performance. Perform test with engine coolant and transmission fluid at operating temperature. To perform a stall test, firmly apply service and parking brakes; with transmission in ranges D, 2, 1, and R, press the accelerator to the floor and hold it just long enough to let the engine reach full RPM. NOTE: Do not hold throttle open for more than five seconds at a time or transmission damage may result. zSB(3,3) After each range, move selector lever to N and run engine at 1,000 RPM for approximately 15 seconds to cool the converter before making the next test.
Does it happen in both neutral and when in gear? If it happens in neutral, I'm pretty sure the transmission isn't moving so it might be something else.
Thanks vbeven. Yes. Both in and out of gear. And thanks pexzed. I'll double check all that as soon as I have a little dry weather.
ok I was wrong. Just started the z and the noise was there for an instant and then it was gone. Put the car into reverse ( or any gear ) and the noise is there immediately.
Bugger, sounds gearbox related then. There are bands inside but I don't know if they "slip" and make noises. Could be bearings when the shaft is turning too. Probably good you're taking it the the tranny shop. The fact that it works should hopefully mean any repairs are just a replacement part, not a rebuild. Good luck.
Thanks mate. Ahhh well. If it comes to it, I think there are still a couple for sale in here. (Makes token sacrifice and thanks the Gods for the forum!) :biggrin:
The story thus far... Got it serviced today. Drove it cold and slowly up the road to the shop and no noise, so I had my hopes up it wasn't too bad. Clogged filter or something. Well the clogged filter was there, but clogged with lockup clutch material. Didn't look like lots but obviously enough to create flow problems once it warmed up and got a good seal. Very small amount of metal sludge on the magnet. Looks like I'm in the market for another box or a rebuild, but at least I have a little time up my sleeve. No long distance drives for a while I guess.
Just a follow up... After the service it didn't last 2 weeks before blocking the filter again with lockup clutch material. Solved the problem with a reconditioned torque converter cost of $288 not including labour. Also throw in a very large transmission cooler as the stock cooler will still have that crap in it. Problem solved. If I were to do it again I wouldn't bother with the first service and would just get it done rather than risk the filter blocking very soon after and possible further damage.
